3 1/2 days in London

[artnbarb]

We'll arrive at Kings Cross Station at 2 p.m. on a Wednesday after noon in mid-August. Our AirBnB is on Aldgate High St, right across the street from the Aldgate Tube Station. We have the rest of Wednesday, and all day Thurs/Fri/Sat for London. We've been here many times before, and because of that, and because it's August, I have no interest in visiting the Tower of London this visit, nor the V&A.

So much will depend on the weather, but generally speaking I don't think it will be a major factor. That being said, I'm still hesitant to make reservations for certain things. This is rather unusual for me, especially considering that advance booking probably saves money, but I don't want to make too many commitments.

Things I'm considering for our time in London are:

• A day trip to Greenwich - probably via the quick ferry on the Thames. For whatever reason, neither of us has ever visited Greenwich. Is it worth a day trip, and if so, should we plan for the entire day there?
• I'd like to go up in The Shard, and/or the London Eye. We've been up in the Eye before, but it's been many years ago and the skies were quite overcast. Never been up in The Shard, but last visit we had a great view of it from our lunch in the Walkie Talkie Bldg - sorry, I don't even know the proper name! For the Shard I'm reading that near sunset is a great time to visit, and of course I would pre-book to make sure we got the time we wanted. Probably won't do both.
• Maybe a vist to Borough Market? As part of a walk from our B&B, over London Bridge, to the market? Later that same afternoon to The Shard?
• We've never been up to Regent's Park, or the zoo, or any of the canals. Is there enough to see and do in that are to make it worth a visit?
• Last time we visited The Wallace Collection, and enjoyed it. Personally I'd love to spend all day in the British Museum but Art likes his museums much smaller - any suggestions for something similar to the Wallace Collection?
• I'm also planning to sign up for the cheap Hamilton tickets while we're there, but I'm not going base my schedule on something that probably won't happen!
• I've never walked across Tower Bridge, nor gone inside the towers. Does anyone know if this is still possible? I know there's a website or app where you can check to see what time the bridge will be raised!
• I almost forgot to add Kew Gardens!Just under an hour, on the District Line. If there's a heatwave, Kew's out. Not enough shade.

Honestly, I think this is more than enough to keep us busy! I don't want to feel driven by a to-do list, nor do I want to be tied to a rigid schedule. Any of the big tourist draws (The Tower, Buckingham Palace, The London Eye) probably will be busy enough to justify booking in advance, and committing to a specific day and time, but other wise I just want to decide what to see/do, then I'can organize my days in a logical manner. I'm open to suggestions. I'll be in Italy for 2 months after I leave London, so is there really anything I'm going to want from the markets? Now I love markets, but maybe it's not more important than seeing/doing something more uniquely English. Lots to choose from! Such a wonderful problem.

 

[Ian Sutton]

If the ferry is convenient, I've heard good things of it as an alternative to the hustle and bustle of the tube.

Tower bridge is open to walk across 99.x% of the time, and it's very rare for the bridge to be raised... perhaps turning your thoughts on your head, as watching it open might be a rare and special treat. I don't have any info on tours, but it should be easy to find out online.

Does Tower of London appeal - it's literally next door to the bridge. It really does deserve a good half day if you decide to do it - and perhaps might fit Art's 'smaller museum' aim (with enough to break up the experience and avoid that 'dusty feel'. If not, then I'd probably tie Tower Bridge in with Borough Market, walking across the bridge in the morning if the weather is good, then once over the river follow the south bank westwards past HMS Belfast to Borough Market.

Borough Market gets busier as the week goes on, so more stalls open, but also busier with people. I used to choose Thursdays when day-tripping there, but also Fridays quite often when working the other side of London (and calling in there en-route home). Lots of street food lunchtime options, with a global selection of food styles. Lots of good stalls and in general the quality is very good... but is fully priced to the quality! Personal reccos:
- Bianca Mora, do Emilia-Romagnan cheeses, salami and oils, with for me the highlights being superb Parmesan, plus a very tasty salami sealed in beeswax
- Brindisa are big business now, but quality remains good. Some almonds and Torres truffle crisps to nibble on might enliven a picnic or supper
- De Calabria have been there for years, but sadly stopped importing my favourite honey '31 erbe' a strikingly pungent herbal honey that would beat any cold into a whimpering heap. Good especially if you enjoy strong spice.
- Fitz fine foods is a quirky little stall, often including some foraged food. Worth a browse.
- Gelateria 3bis is on a road leading off from Borough market (near Monmouth coffee house). I'd say it's good but not great gelato, fully priced, but if it's a hot day, it's very much an enjoyable treat.
- Monmouth Coffee house. Very busy and whilst the coffees and pastries are good, getting a seat is a bit of a pain. Takeaway possibly the best option and if buying beans, they'll take your order for coffee at the same time (avoiding double queuing)
- I really don't like 'La Tua Pasta's filled pasta - feeling like it's brought English stodge to the genre, Gastronomica's pasta is more traditional, but slightly annoyingly now wrapped in plastic rather than loose as it used to be. I Camisa is waaaay better (a very cosy 'real' Italian Alimentari), but it's miles away near Piccadilly Circus. Gastronomica also a good place for Burrata / Mozzarella, but there is another place that also does soft-smoked mozzarella
- Le Marché du Quartier have a useful selection of French canned specialities, plus other stuff. Worth a browse for sure
- Neal's Yard also very big business, but they do have a very good selection of cheeses and take sourcing them very seriously
- Spice mountain has a very wide range of spices if looking to cook
- I *think* Starks is the fruit and veg shop with the big mushroom range, and they are very much recommended. They also sell truffles in season, and also a wide selection of fruit and veg, including zucchini flower, Amalfi lemons etc.
- Tartufaia sell truffles, truffle products and mushrooms, the latter of which I've not been impressed by in quality/freshness terms. The truffles from Australia are crazy expensive, the Italian ones decent and prices are ok for the UK, but the star discovery was black truffles grown in Essex. Fresher due to the shorter distance, and very much more fragrant, and really rather cheap!
- The French Comte have a good and broad classic range of French cheeses. The place opposite also worth a look for (IIRC) Swiss cheeses
- Olive Oil company have a great selection and a nicely green/peppery Sicilian one is a nice substitute for the 11 months of the year when the first pressing isn't around.
- Utobeer have been there for many years and do have a good range, including some modern eclectic beers. Useful for a supper at 'home'.

However to a degree, ignore this list. Stroll and follow your nose to what appeals to you.

Looking at the Borough market site, it's clear there has been quite a bit of turnover, including losing a very good chocolate stall (the person running it trained under Marcolini of Belgium). Lovely to see both Malaysian and Singaporean street food stalls and the Israeli one had only recently started up last time I went.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Re: Regents Park. It's nice, and especially on a weekend morning can be very enjoyable to walk. I'm not sure I'd make a detour specifically for it or indeed any of the other parks, but finding a convenient way to slot one into an itinerary is worth consideration. Kew very much more a bigger thing and I would expect there is good natural cover if needed.

The 'London Eye' is an alternative if you want an aerial view of the city

If you like a vibrant open-air evening vibe, then Covent Garden might appeal. Usually some decent options for eating out in the roads surrounding it.

 

[artnbarb]

Thanks, @Ian Sutton ! Great rundown on borough Market! That might be a great place to find something interesting to take to our hosts for the 4 nights after we leave London - they used to have a second home in Umbria, so perhaps something Italian.

We've been to the Tower many times, and I love it, but in August, and while still in the middle of a pandemic, I'm going to steer clear of crowds when I can. Places like Kew Gardens and even the British Museum allow for more room to spread out, and I'll definitely follow your suggestion for going to the market on a weekday.

Saturday may be my biggest problem day - what to do to avoid the crush of tourists on a hot August Saturday? If that's even possible!

 

[Ian Sutton]

Thanks, @Ian Sutton ! Great rundown on borough Market! That might be a great place to find something interesting to take to our hosts for the 4 nights after we leave London - they used to have a second home in Umbria, so perhaps something Italian.

We've been to the Tower many times, and I love it, but in August, and while still in the middle of a pandemic, I'm going to steer clear of crowds when I can. Places like Kew Gardens and even the British Museum allow for more room to spread out, and I'll definitely follow your suggestion for going to the market on a weekday.

Saturday may be my biggest problem day - what to do to avoid the crush of tourists on a hot August Saturday? If that's even possible!

The parks definitely an option to avoid / mitigate crowds, and oddly where you're staying will feel rather quiet on the weekend, with all the 'city' workers back home. Spitalfields market might be worth a look, and it's not far from you. Some foods, some art, some clothes. It's indoors, but well-aired.

One Saturday option might be to do Borough Market early, and aim to do completed there by (say) 11am (but definitely by noon when it gets super-crowded), then walk back along the river and over Tower Bridge and drop the purchases off at home, or plan a place where you can raid the purchases for an impromptu picnic.