Daytrips from Florence

[carolync]

I'm in super planning mode since my trip is less than 2 months away.

Researching possible daytrips. I have been to Siena twice, and that is again on the list since my travel companion has never been there. Fiesole is also on the list.

My criteria is easily accessible with bus or train, and not much more than an hour travel.

I've narrowed it down to Lucca, Bologna and Arezzo. Out of those three, which would you pick, and why? Are there any I may be missing?

(We love food, art, shopping and just generally exploring on foot)

Thanks!

 

[Alpinista]

OK, I'm prejudiced -- my wife's family home is near Lucca. The city inside the walls is almost totally car free, so great to wander around. Strolling up Via Fillungo past all the stores, shops, bars, gelateria, and restaurants will be a tremendous amount of fun. Poli's bicycles in Piazza Santa Maria gives you immediate access to the wall (2.5 miles around) for a leisurely bike trip with wonderful views and lots of parks if you want to stop and stretch out on the grass. Just around the corner from Piazza Santa Maria, BTW, is a little street with shops where you can buy cheese, wine, bread, and other treats for a picnic on the wall, if you want. There is some beautiful architecture (churches, the Guinigi Tower, Torre Orologio, Villa Guinigi, etc.) in the city and a small Roman home that was excavated and which is now part of a bite-size museum.

The Undici Undici (11-11) bar at Piazza Napoleone is a nice spot for a spritz and another chance to watch the world go by.

The train station in Lucca is right outside one of the gates to the city, so an easy stroll into the town. Once inside the walls, everything is close.

For dining, I strongly recommend Gigi's (near the Guinigi Tower), Ubaldo's (a very eclectic restaurant right at the amphitheater with Ubaldo himself to greet you -- think satanic biker who runs a fantastic restaurant) and, finally, Da Giulio's.

 

[carolync]

Thank you, it sounds wonderful.

 

[Pauline]

I would pick Lucca and Arezzo because I have been to both and liked them. Lucca would be my top pick but Arezzo is a charming town too. There are wonderful frescoes in the church in Arezzo - they are the ones featured in the movie The English Patient.

From Wikipedia: The Basilica of San Francesco is a late Medieval church in Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy, dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. It is especially renowned for housing in the chancel the fresco cycle Legends of the True Cross by Piero della Francesca.

 

[Ian Sutton]

I've narrowed it down to Lucca, Bologna and Arezzo. Out of those three, which would you pick, and why? Are there any I may be missing?

(We love food, art, shopping and just generally exploring on foot)

Lucca certainly worth having on the list, as it's nicely sized for a day trip, does hold art interest, and the walk from the station to the city isn't onerous. For me this is a good option to have available.

Bologna is a city I really like, but I will offer a little caution. It's a little further to walk from Bologna station to the centre (let's call this Piazza Nettuno for convenience) and whilst there are buses, the one we took was uncomfortably packed solid. Once there you've got a reasonably large city, so I'd be arguing that a tight focus is better than potentially feeling overwhelmed by this bustling city. Plenty of art & architecture, plus science history, but also some of the best food shopping in Italy. If any of those (or anything else) really call out as 'can't miss' then focus on that one thing you absolutely want. I say this as our first two visits (arriving by train) were difficult, with the brains of the operation tired by the experience - I think we ended up leaving at lunchtime on both occasions. Somehow we felt it was worth trying again, and stayed just south of the city & took the bus into the city centre... and loved the place.

I can't comment on Arezzo, but will put in a good word for Colle val d'Elsa, famous for glass production, but also rather charming and didn't seem over-touristed. Should be regular coaches from Firenze.

 

[Steve R.]

Bologna is a different world, in some ways almost the food capital of Italy. Not a bad choice at all.
I'm assuming that Pisa doesn't interest you? We had not gone during any of our trips to Florence but, when we rented an apartment in Florence and had a month, we hopped on the train and went. The tower, the church and some of the town were definitely worth the day trip.
Fiesole didn't really do anything for us. A 3rd time in Siena would be a better spent day.
A wine tour day trip with a driver isn't really that expensive and can easily be arranged on short notice.

 

[Ian Sutton]

One final thought, depending on timings, your trip might coincide with the truffle fair at San Miniato. It's little more than a large village / small town, but the fair is a big thing. Not just truffles, and would be a good place to look for some 1st pressing olive oil from the stalls there.

I'll throw one more in, where we stayed just south of Bologna, there was a much smaller / local truffle fair in the nearby village of Pianoro (we cycled there from Rastignano). If you can get a coach that stops there (or maybe the regionale trains stop there?) then for us it was a much more pleasing experience, with a small market, mushroom exhibition, plus lunch at communal tables where we were the only non-Italians there, but made most welcome. As an experience it is far more intimate than the Alba or San Miniatio truffle fairs. Maybe there are others even closer though?

With both of the above, timing is the thing, as the fairs are weekends only IIRC and don't go on for long, so you'll have to get lucky to coincide with them.

 

[carolync]

Thanks guys, much to think about.

I have already been to Pisa, spent an overnight there before flying home on my last trip to Florence. I liked it better than I thought I would. The church was amazing!

I'm interested in going to Fiesole, not so much for the city, but I'd love to do some hiking/walking in the countryside. I also read of a bike tour that starts there, does a little tour of the town and then you ride downhill back to Florence.

Ian, thanks for the heads up on Bologna, sounds like that might be an option for another time - maybe a stay in that region instead. I will check out San Miniato.

Steve - do you have any recommendations for a driver for a wine tour? That is also something we would like to do.

 

[Engred]

Another vote for Lucca. Be sure to tour the garden in Fiesole.

 

[Steve R.]

Thanks guys, much to think about.
Steve - do you have any recommendations for a driver for a wine tour? That is also something we would like to do.

Sorry for the delayed response. I've been looking around my notes to see if I could find a recommendation. I couldn't. However, there is someone in Rome who does wine tastings and has been on several boards with me for years who could probably steer you to someone trustworthy in Florence. Her name is Hande Leimer and she runs a site called VinoRoma.com http://www.vinoroma.com/?page_id=70 Hope that helps.

 

[carolync]

Thanks Steve! I still have a month and a half left to plan.

 

[jan]

I would say, eliminate Arezzo.
Both Lucca and Bologna have tons to offer but I think for a full day, Bologna wins.

 

[PokeyMindy]

Thanks guys, much to think about.

I have already been to Pisa, spent an overnight there before flying home on my last trip to Florence. I liked it better than I thought I would. The church was amazing!

I'm interested in going to Fiesole, not so much for the city, but I'd love to do some hiking/walking in the countryside. I also read of a bike tour that starts there, does a little tour of the town and then you ride downhill back to Florence.

Ian, thanks for the heads up on Bologna, sounds like that might be an option for another time - maybe a stay in that region instead. I will check out San Miniato.

Steve - do you have any recommendations for a driver for a wine tour? That is also something we would like to do.

for a wine tour, we used Luca from http://www.hillsandroads.com/inflash/index.html

I believe his company was a SlowTrav favorite. He picked us up at our apartment in Florence and we spent the day with him. He planned the day trip to what we wanted. Highly recommend. As I recall he was prompt at replying to email questions.

I'm partial to Bologna as a day trip from Florence. The walk to the center didn't seem all that much to me. We did take a taxi to the bottom of the porticos and walked up to the gorgeous church of the Madonna di San Luca. Amazing walk under the porticos! Walking down was a breeze...and then lunch at http://www.trattoriameloncello.it/

I'll be in Florence for 3 days in mid Sept...taking the train (36 min. or something like that) to Bologna to visit our wonderful friends who live there. Then 7 days in Siena....and 7 days in Positano. I am ready!!

Mindy

 

[carolync]

Thank you so much Mindy. I have emailed Luca for info.

Good feedback on Bologna, I will have to do more research, maybe we can fit in both.

Have a fantastic trip!

 

[PokeyMindy]

Thank you so much Mindy. I have emailed Luca for info.

Good feedback on Bologna, I will have to do more research, maybe we can fit in both.

Have a fantastic trip!

Prego, hope it all works out for you! Cin cin

 

[italian excursion]

Sounds like you planned a wonderful trip. I might recommend, if you've chosen Lucca, that you consider a food course with Erica Jarman who lives in that area. http://www.sapori-e-saperi.com/tours-and-courses-list/
She has interesting, unique food courses with artisan crafts people in the area who continue the old world style of making gelato, bread, cheese, salumi, etc. Always small groups or private courses to suit your timing, if she's not already booked. If you are seeking out of the way, unique experiences, she is very knowledgeable. And certainly, while in the area, visit Fiesole. I like taking a picnic and sitting in the forum for lunch.

Ciao,
Cheryl
www.italianexcursion.com

 

[Anne]

I'm interested in going to Fiesole, not so much for the city, but I'd love to do some hiking/walking in the countryside.

I went for a fabulous hike in the Monte Ceceri park a few years ago. There's a spot with a plaque indicating it was the site of da Vinci's first "flight"...I don't know how much truth there is to that claim, but it was fun to stand there and imagine him leaping off with his flying contraption! The park itself was lovely, as was the walk to it through the back streets of Fiesole. A most enjoyable day!

 

[Hank Lisciotti]

Check out Volterra. It's a beautiful village where they are famous for Alabaster.

 

[Stef]

I have been to Bologna a few years ago. It's a large city, lively but also a bit messy and no green areas. Lot's of culture and very good food if you choose wisely. There are cooking classes I think. Ate the very best sorbetto di limone there. And you definitely need to try a piadina for lunch! Spend a day, not more. You might wanna stay just south of the city in the hills.

 

[carolync]

Hi all. Reporting back.

We went to Lucca today. Quite a lovely city. Spent the day strolling the streets and had lunch at Ubaldo's. Stumbled on a beautiful garden palace - Palazzo Pfanner

Easy Peasy by train from Florence.

Thanks for all the recommendations. I wouldn't think twice about going back.