Dennis
100+ Posts
Preamble: A Caution and an Explanation
If your travels are exclusively four or five star, read no further. We are travelers of modest means and therefore modest expectations regarding food and accommodation. We enjoy hearty well-prepared local dishes. A dinner for two with local wine and coffee that exceeds E25 is a rarity for us. If we pay more than E50 a night for accommodation, we figure we are splurging! However, we insist on clean, quiet rooms with bath. Apartments must be inclusive of cleaning and linens.
Why Extremadura? Friends had never heard of it. Had they heard of Pizarro, of other conquistadors and of the explorers of the New World? Why yes. It was the lure of history that brought us to this remote area. That and Extremadura’s tourist slogan: “Spain, as it once was” drew us.
Day 1: Cordoba to Caceres
One last view of the Mezquita from across the river at dawn and then we were on our way, out of the Quadalquivir valley, on the N432. The drive to Zafra took us past small mining operations and farm land. There was nothing that caught our interest or made us want to stop.
By mid-morning we were ready for a break in Zafra. Its white walls and Parador (formerly the Alcazar) reflect its Arab past.
Rather than rush a visit to Merida with its Roman ruins we took the town bypass and continued north. At Aldea del Cano we stopped at the large truck stop at the junction of the N630 and CC191 just south of town. As is our fate, we were again the first guests in the large dining room. In contrast to the truckers’ bar the room was light and airy with linen table cloths. Soon the room began to fill and by coffee, it was full. It appeared most regulars opted for the paella on the el menu. From the E9 menu, I chose a first course of beef and potato stew followed by grilled trout with vegetables. The flan casera was acceptable. Margaret chose lightly battered merzula as a main course.
Fortified, we made our run into the City of Caceres. The modern city itself is easy to get around. However, on this occasion, our trusted Michelin driving directions let us down. After two runs at what turned out to be a blocked-off street to our accommodation we set down in a commercial parking spot to collect our wits. A friendly parking officer provided us with alternatives to receiving a parking citation! We parked at the large parking garage near the old city, called our rental place and set out on foot to find it.
Our home for the week was a 10 minute walk across the Plaza Mayor and very near the Plaza de San Juan. We found it easier to take a quick reconnoitre around our place for parking and if none was readily available, head directly to the Obispo parking garage. For E7.80 for 24 hours it saved a lot of headaches!
Antonio greeted us and showed us our flat.A quick walk about the neighborhood showed it to be safe and in close proximity to the walled old city and shopping. Groceries, clothes washing and a bottle of wine rounded out our first day in Caceres.
If your travels are exclusively four or five star, read no further. We are travelers of modest means and therefore modest expectations regarding food and accommodation. We enjoy hearty well-prepared local dishes. A dinner for two with local wine and coffee that exceeds E25 is a rarity for us. If we pay more than E50 a night for accommodation, we figure we are splurging! However, we insist on clean, quiet rooms with bath. Apartments must be inclusive of cleaning and linens.
Why Extremadura? Friends had never heard of it. Had they heard of Pizarro, of other conquistadors and of the explorers of the New World? Why yes. It was the lure of history that brought us to this remote area. That and Extremadura’s tourist slogan: “Spain, as it once was” drew us.
Day 1: Cordoba to Caceres
One last view of the Mezquita from across the river at dawn and then we were on our way, out of the Quadalquivir valley, on the N432. The drive to Zafra took us past small mining operations and farm land. There was nothing that caught our interest or made us want to stop.
By mid-morning we were ready for a break in Zafra. Its white walls and Parador (formerly the Alcazar) reflect its Arab past.
Rather than rush a visit to Merida with its Roman ruins we took the town bypass and continued north. At Aldea del Cano we stopped at the large truck stop at the junction of the N630 and CC191 just south of town. As is our fate, we were again the first guests in the large dining room. In contrast to the truckers’ bar the room was light and airy with linen table cloths. Soon the room began to fill and by coffee, it was full. It appeared most regulars opted for the paella on the el menu. From the E9 menu, I chose a first course of beef and potato stew followed by grilled trout with vegetables. The flan casera was acceptable. Margaret chose lightly battered merzula as a main course.
Fortified, we made our run into the City of Caceres. The modern city itself is easy to get around. However, on this occasion, our trusted Michelin driving directions let us down. After two runs at what turned out to be a blocked-off street to our accommodation we set down in a commercial parking spot to collect our wits. A friendly parking officer provided us with alternatives to receiving a parking citation! We parked at the large parking garage near the old city, called our rental place and set out on foot to find it.
Our home for the week was a 10 minute walk across the Plaza Mayor and very near the Plaza de San Juan. We found it easier to take a quick reconnoitre around our place for parking and if none was readily available, head directly to the Obispo parking garage. For E7.80 for 24 hours it saved a lot of headaches!
Antonio greeted us and showed us our flat.A quick walk about the neighborhood showed it to be safe and in close proximity to the walled old city and shopping. Groceries, clothes washing and a bottle of wine rounded out our first day in Caceres.