"Falling" For Portugal - Mai Tai Tom's "Trip" Report

[maitaitom]

It was a fun and hectic three weeks in Portugal in the early fall. We started in Lisbon, then stayed in Sintra, Tomar, Coimbra, the Douro Valley and finally Porto. There were lots of stops along the way, too. We had to find moments to just kick back and relax where we could. And, of course, it wouldn’t be a Mai Tai Tom trip without at least one visit to the Emergency Room. Lisbon, here we come.

Chapter One: Finally Lisbon!

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter One: Finally Lisbon! Prologue: The Third Time Really Is The Charm After having to postpone Portugal twice due to Covid, we (Tracy and I, along with friends Kim and Mary) finally were able to travel to a country we had […]

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[Colo]

Wow! Great Pictures and love the narrative.
Thanks so much for sharing your trip!

 

[maitaitom]

Thanks Colo ... As many know, always try to pack a lot into a day. After a slight glitch in our “foolproof” plan to get there, we toured the historic Castelo de São Jorge, the most visited attraction in Lisbon. Next on the agenda, we enjoyed the tombs, tiles and tales at Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora. We then headed over to see Portugal’s National Pantheon, Igreja de Santa Engrácia-Panteão Nacional, a place that took a mere 284 years to construct and finally finish. Our final stop would be the fascinating Museu Nacional do Azulejo, and its incredibly ornate Igreja do Antigo Convento de Madre de Deus. Those attractions, broken statues and more on Day Two in Lisbon.

Chapter Two: Exploring Lisbon

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Two: Exploring Lisbon Day Two: Out Of Order, Early Birds, By Jorge, When You Gotta Go, Tombs Tiles And Tales, Portugal’s National Pantheon, Greenhouse Effect, Astounding Azulejos, Eavesdropping Helps, Selfie Goes Awry, The Wrong Duque and...

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[Colo]

If you have not read - The First Global Village: How Portugal Changed the World - Martin Page
I highly recommended. It will clear up many myths that surround this country.

 

[maitaitom]

I will look for it. Thanks.

 

[maitaitom]

Well, it didn’t take me long to need medical assistance in Lisbon. Exiting a metro station I slightly miscounted the number of steps, and my head received a cobblestone sidewalk “hello.” After a quick ambulance trip, I was checked out at a hospital and after a CT Scan the hospital confirmed what most people already know … my brain showed nothing. We hightailed it over to Lisbon’s most famous art museum, the fabulous Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, where Tracy once again was able to view a painting by her all-time favorite artist. All this, and a fantastic Italian dinner complete with a very decisive waiter made for an unusual, but memorable, day in Lisbon.

Chapter Three: Fall Comes Three Days Early In Lisbon

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Three: Fall Comes Three Days Early In Lisbon Day Three: That’s The Ticket (Finally), Underground Transportation, What Goes Down Must Come Up, Good Samaritans, Siren Song, Farewell To The Queen, Just A Flesh Wound, Kim Chickens Out, Singer...

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[maitaitom]

Here comes Day Four in Lisbon. We saved a lot of steps (and a possible coronary) with a shortcut heading up to the ruins of Convento da Ordem do Carmo and Museu Arqueológico do Carmo. We visited a church (Igreja-Museu São Roque) that took opulence to the next level, survived a Tuk-Tuk ride to a basilica that gave us a few problems in time management, lunch in a pretty garden and on to a museum (Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga) displaying a piece of art by my favorite crazy painter. We’d have what was, up to now, the best meal we had in Lisbon, and turned out to be one of the best we had on the trip (and we had a lot of good ones.

Chapter Four: Crisscrossing Lisbon

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Four: Crisscrossing Lisbon Day Four: Justa Wrong Way To Go, Escalators To Heaven, Carmelite Treasure, Don’t Judge A Church By Its Cover, Tuk-ered Out, Timing Is Everything, Banana Appeal, A Date With El Bosco, The Temptations, The Old...

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[maitaitom]

It was finally time to check out the sights in the Lisbon neighborhood of Belém, and there are no shortage of them. On a blistering hot day, we visited what many say is the most popular Portugal attraction, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and its adjoining church, Santa Maria de Belém, complete with Vasco da Gama’s tomb. Down by the river we took in the oft-photographed Torre de Belém and walked down to the incredible Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries). To end our day in Belém we were transported to the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum). Those sights plus a famous biplane and fake lighthouse highlighted quite a day. And to cap it all off … I would have the best gin and tonic in my life at dinner. Life is good!

Chapter Five: Tell ‘Em We Love Belém!

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Five: Tell ‘Em We Love Belém! Day Five: Manuel Labor, Get Here Early!, Boy Are They Strict, Tower Of Power, Navigating The Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Put Me In Coach, A Royal Ride, First PopeMobile?, Cranking Up The Heat, Please Let […]

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[maitaitom]

It was our last day in Lisbon, and we decided to take a short train trip to visit the The National Palace of Queluz, dubbed by some as the “Portuguese Versailles.” After touring the palace and gardens, we zipped back to Lisbon for lunch at the very cool Time Out Market. Finally, we would visit The Oldest Functioning Bookstore In The World. One last great dinner, and that would be the end of our six busy days in lively Lisbon. Next stop: Sintra.

Chapter Six: Final Day In Lisbon

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Six: Final Day In Lisbon Day Six: We Won’t Be Taking Our Luggage, “Portuguese Versailles”, No Crowds, Tiles Channel, Time Out For Lunch, Decisions Decisions, This Isn’t A Buzzer?, The Oldest Functioning Bookstore In The World, Channeling...

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[maitaitom]

Our first day in Sintra started off great when, after stopping in our charming hotel, the tour guide we had hired for a few hours showed us around the stupendous Palácio Nacional de Sintra. Our next stop was to be the Quinta da Regaleira, however a tragedy occurred there a short time before we were to enter, so we instead visited a 19th-century mansion (Biester Palace) with incredible art-detailing by a famous Italian set designer, architect and painter. It was a brief break before dinner, however Mary’s break to dine took much longer. Come along on our first day in the magical town of Sintra.

Chapter Seven: Sintra … Colorful City of Palaces

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Seven: Sintra … Colorful City of Palaces Day Seven: Beautiful Residence, The Three-Year Deposit, High Chair, Isabel Takes Over, The Oldest Palace In Portugal, Unique Tiles, Death At The Quinta, Plan B, Some Great Advice, Wine And...

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[maitaitom]

On Day Two in Sintra, we were finally able to visit Quinta da Regaleira, where a tourist had died the previous day. We used advice from yesterday's guide and were nearly the first ones at the Initiation Well, which made for a much more pleasant experience as we descended. The grounds at the Quinta are the major star, and we also visited the palace and the chapel. After a quick bite to eat, it was on to the colorful, yet crowded, Palácio da Pena. I know some people have said, you don’t need to go inside the palace, but even with the crowds, we enjoyed it. Afterward, we’d luck out on securing transportation back to Sintra, and in the evening enjoy our best meal in Portugal ... so far. Do not just make Sintra a day trip! There's a lot to see.

Chapter Eight: Quinta da Regaleira and Palácio da Pena

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Eight: Quinta da Regaleira and Palácio da Pena Day Eight: Early Birds, All’s Well, Dante’s Inferno, More Manini, Crowd Control, Blown Away (Literally), The Best €20 We Have Ever Spent and A Neighborhood Gem Since I had booked and rebooked […]

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[Georgia & Zig]

Well, it didn’t take me long to need medical assistance in Lisbon. Exiting a metro station I slightly miscounted the number of steps, and my head received a cobblestone sidewalk “hello.” After a quick ambulance trip, I was checked out at a hospital and after a CT Scan the hospital confirmed what most people already know … my brain showed nothing. We hightailed it over to Lisbon’s most famous art museum, the fabulous Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, where Tracy once again was able to view a painting by her all-time favorite artist. All this, and a fantastic Italian dinner complete with a very decisive waiter made for an unusual, but memorable, day in Lisbon.

Chapter Three: Fall Comes Three Days Early In Lisbon

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Three: Fall Comes Three Days Early In Lisbon Day Three: That’s The Ticket (Finally), Underground Transportation, What Goes Down Must Come Up, Good Samaritans, Siren Song, Farewell To The Queen, Just A Flesh Wound, Kim Chickens Out, Singer...

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View attachment 39566

I’m wondering if you ever got a bill from the hospital. Once, or twice, we’ve made visits to emergency rooms in Europe and they were practically free!

 

[Georgia & Zig]

It was finally time to check out the sights in the Lisbon neighborhood of Belém, and there are no shortage of them. On a blistering hot day, we visited what many say is the most popular Portugal attraction, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and its adjoining church, Santa Maria de Belém, complete with Vasco da Gama’s tomb. Down by the river we took in the oft-photographed Torre de Belém and walked down to the incredible Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries). To end our day in Belém we were transported to the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum). Those sights plus a famous biplane and fake lighthouse highlighted quite a day. And to cap it all off … I would have the best gin and tonic in my life at dinner. Life is good!

Chapter Five: Tell ‘Em We Love Belém!

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Five: Tell ‘Em We Love Belém! Day Five: Manuel Labor, Get Here Early!, Boy Are They Strict, Tower Of Power, Navigating The Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Put Me In Coach, A Royal Ride, First PopeMobile?, Cranking Up The Heat, Please Let […]

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View attachment 39708

You visit lots of churches as do we. But we enjoy going in to take part in the services or Masses which usually have organ music and choirs or Monks and Sisters singing which is absolutely lovely! That way we also don’t have to wait outside until Mass is over.

 

[maitaitom]

I’m wondering if you ever got a bill from the hospital. Once, or twice, we’ve made visits to emergency rooms in Europe and they were practically free!

We still have yet to receive a bill and we are more than three months since the fall.

I’m wondering if you ever got a bill from the hospital. Once, or twice, we’ve made visits to emergency rooms in Europe and they were practically free!

 

[maitaitom]

You visit lots of churches as do we. But we enjoy going in to take part in the services or Masses which usually have organ music and choirs or Monks and Sisters singing which is absolutely lovely! That way we also don’t have to wait outside until Mass is over.

We have sat in for some organ recitals or when the monks were singing in Florence. Sometimes churches don't mind, while others don't want us in during services, which is quite understandable.

 

[Georgia & Zig]

We have sat in for some organ recitals or when the monks were singing in Florence. Sometimes churches don't mind, while others don't want us in during services, which is quite understandable.

We haven’t found any churches that don’t seem to want us there when we say we want to take part in the Mass. You don’t have to be Catholic to participate. Just don’t go up to receive the host at communion or you can go up and just receive a blessing from the priest. Piece of cake!

 

[maitaitom]

There was still one more Sintra palace to visit to fill out our Sintra Bingo card. Palácio de Monserrate is as magical as advertised. It has lush gardens, and the palace, which is not quite as well known as a few other Sintra sites, was spectacular featuring its Moorish Revival, Romantic and Manueline architecture. I want a house like that! Back in Sintra, we visited a lesser known museum thanks to a communication error on my part with our Uber driver, and then headed to the Lisbon Airport to pick up our rental car (Danger Will Robinson) that would take us northward tomorrow.

Chapter Nine: Magical, Mystical Monserrate

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Nine: Magical, Mystical Monserrate Day Nine: The Early Birds, A Lovely Walk, Stunning Palace, Less Is Moor, The First Lawn Planted In Portugal, Here Is The News, Somebody Call An Ambulance, What Color Is Diesel?, Toll Unit and the “Real” […]

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[maitaitom]

Today was UNESCO World Heritage Day for the four of us. First, Portuguese citizens scattered in terror as we took off in our rental car toward Tomar. Before we hit Tomar, we had two stops along the way (well, three if you count the town we never found … “Tom, you idiot!”). Our first was at the Mosteiro Pálacio Nacional de Mafra, a huge complex that only took 50,000 men to build, and where they also put bats to work (see Tracy’s short video below). After somehow making a wrong turn in our futile attempt to find Óbidos, we stopped and scoped out the magnificent Mosteiro de Alcobaça, where we would take a nearly private tour of an utterly remarkable room. We’d end the day at our charming hotel in Tomar, and luck followed us with another memorable meal for dinner.

Chapter Ten – Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites On The Way To Tomar

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Ten – Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites On The Way To Tomar Day Ten – Two Towers Are Better Than One, Where Did All The Royals Go?, Going Batty In The Biblioteca, We’re On The Road To Nowhere, Getting A […]

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[maitaitom]

A day discovering a little bit of Tomar. We started out with a stroll through town, and then it was up the hill to Convento de Cristo, founded in the 12th century by the Grand Master of the Templars. After exploring the convent/castle, we stopped and smelled the flowers and trees at Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes (National Forest of the Seven Hills). After lunch, Tracy and I visited a unique museum (Museu dos Fósforos) that was “matched” by no other. I was on my own later in the day, when I popped into one of the sights along Tomar’s Heritage Trail, Igreja de Santa Maria do Olival, which is sometimes referred to as the "Pantheon of the Templar Masters." We finished off our day at the #1 rated restaurant in Tomar, and it did not disappoint. The only thing missing was Freddie Mercury.

Chapter Eleven: Traversing Templar Tomar

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Eleven: Traversing Templar Tomar Day Eleven: Hanging With The Templars, Barely Beating The Crowd, Window of Opportunity Shut, Traversing Tomar, Forest Tuckered, Weeping Water Wheel, The Match Game, Danger Of Death, Checking Out Tomar’s...

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[maitaitom]

On to Coimbra. Our first stop was just outside Tomar at an aqueduct whose beginnings date back to the late 1500s. For the brave, there aOn to Coimbra. Our first stop was just outside Tomar at an aqueduct whose beginnings date back to the late 1500s. For the brave, there are sections of Aqueduto dos Pegões Altos to walk on (or for the unfortunate, off). It was then a short drive to Mosteiro da Batalha (Moistero Santa Maria da Vitória), where we paid our respects to the remains of Henry The Navigator and walked through this Gothic masterpiece. Then it was on to the Castelo de Leiria, where a funicular took us up for magnificent views. My Grand Prix turning skills were tested attempting to find our hotel in the college town of Coimbra. As I drove aimlessly, once again local citizens fled my oncoming path. We still had time to get a little taste of Coimbra, while later also tasting some of the best fruit we’ve had in quite some time.

Chapter Twelve: Tomar To Coimbra

Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report Chapter Twelve: Tomar To Coimbra Day Twelve: Arch Supports, Skipping “Our Lady,” Massive Magnificent Monastery, In Search Of Henry, Sky Ceiling, Stadium Parking, Fit For A King, Trash Talking, Rental Car Peril, A Quirky Fun Hotel, Cape Town and...

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