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Lake Lucerne, Very Slow

Amy

100+ Posts
My mother in law was desperate to celebrate her 85th birthday in her favorite place, the village of Weggis on Lake Lucerne. With my husband and myself as Sherpas, we have been escorting Hanna onto boats, cablecars, cograil trains, and restaurants that cater to her preferred diet of French fries, well done steak, or plain pizza. I will offer that Larry and I have found Swiss wines excellent, if pricey.

Weggis is a small lakeside resort, popular with elderly Swiss and Germans, along with Japanese tour groups. Our hotel, the Beau Rivage, is lovely with staff that go over and beyond to satisfy someone who likes the idea of travel somewhat more than the reality.

We have gone up Mount Rigi in Weggis, taking the cablecar and the cograil train. Beautiful views and wildflowers. Mount Pilatus was up the steepest cograil in the world. and anothet day we went for a long boat ride around Lake Lucerne. Happy to report that MIL loved it all. We even eventually found a restaurant in town where she actually enjoyed the food.

Central Switzerland is indeed beautiful, although I find the town's not nearly as interesting as in other countries.

More tomorrow!
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On Saturday Larry and I had the chance to go into Lucerne for the morning. We walked for several hours, enjoying the lively old core of the city amd it's waterfront. Some beautiful 15th and 16th century buildings, evocative squares, and of course the two fantastic wooden bridges with interior frescoes; one detailing the city's history, the other a Danse Macabre. We also got to see the Saturday market, and had a good lunch at Nix.
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Sunday was cloudy with rain to the South, so we drove the scenic Klausen Pass. Slightly terrifying to drive, but marvelous views. Waterfalls, wildflowers and snowcapped peaks and snowfields. Farmhouses and barns way up on the slopes, with farmer's gondolas crisscrossing the peaks.
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Monday was spent driving to Zurich airport to pick up my sister in law; and then hanging around the lakeside in Weggis. After another lackluster dinner, we found ourselves at the lakeside pavilion for a concert of local singing and instrumental groups. Still trying to figure out whether the gentleman accompanying the accordion player was really playing a kazoo.

On Tuesday, MIL and SIL took the short boat ride to Vizneau and then the cograil train back up Mt Rigi. Larry and I took the opportunity to leave early enough to take a daytrip to the Berner Oberland, the mountainous region to the southwest. It was a beautifully clear day, so we wanted to drive one of the mountain passes. We decided on the Susten Pass, and it was glorious. Driving up through snowcovered peaks, hillsides covered in alpine wildflowers, waterfalls, and following a short walking trail winding up through the hills and valleys. And unlike many of the other mountain pass roads, fairly easy driving. However, we did come across a bad accident, where a motorcyclist took a turn too fast and plowed into an oncoming car.

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We stopped for lunch at a roadside rosti place and had the best rosti on the trip, sauteed with fresh vegetables and mercifully unsalty and not gummed up with too much cheese. Speaking of cheese, we also stopped into a cheesemaking hut to buy a wedge of local cheese, very good.


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Our last stop for the day was the Aare Gorge, a fun 2 K walk on elevated walkways through the deep and narrow gorge.


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A last dinner to celebrate MIL's 85th birthday; and then Wednesday morning Larry and I left for home. From what I hear, MIL and SIL have settled into a few more days of boat trips on the lake, strawberry tarts for lunch and afternoon snack, cograil or gondola rides up and down lakeside mountains, and overpriced pizza for dinner.

MIL is getting her two weeks in Weggis, which is what she wanted.

I could see returning to Switzerland on our own for the fabulous landscape and scenery, but in an apartment where we could cook, based in a town better located for touring. Weggis is indeed lovely, but it is a pain to get anywhere, especially by the limited boat and bus service. And as a short-term resort area, it does not have much to keep ones interest beyond a few days. I will shout out that the Beau Rivage Hotel is charming and comfortable, with a fabulous staff.
 
Switzerland is a funny old place - shockingly expensive for restaurants, cafes and groceries, but vacation rentals are not too bad. For us the draw is the hiking (easy hiking in wonderful locations). I can see why someone would not love Switzerland like we do, and Weggis doesn't sound like the best location. I agree with you about the food. We have found some good places (mountain restaurants that serve Rosti or river fish, the best vegetarian restaurant in the world in Zurich), but we've had some horrible meals. Mostly we do our own cooking. You both were very generous to Larry's mother taking her on this trip and I hope she appreciated it!

Edited to add: Reread your last paragraph to realize that you would go back. :)
 

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