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Montepulciano, Varenna-(Lake Como) and Venice

Sharon J

100+ Posts
Arrived in Rome on Saturday, May 14th. Picked up our rental car and drove to Sant'Antonio, outside Montepulciano, for our third stay with Nico. http://www.santantonio.it/ We rented the Signorelli, stand alone cottage and loved it. Comfortable sitting area, large bathroom and very comfortable bed. Plenty of storage for all of our belongings. The kitchen area is rather small, but it was fine for what little cooking we did, which was mostly breakfast. Nice table and chairs for indoor dining. The cottage has lots of windows, which brings in plenty of light, and shutters, that you can close at night for privacy. There are also two lounge chairs, along with an outdoor table and chairs in a private setting. Also a private outdoor grill for the cottage, which we did not use. This is our third stay at Sant'Antonio, and the setting is simply amazing. Of course, Nico makes you feel like you've known him forever. Since we've been to Tuscany many times, we mostly visited our favorite little towns, returning each day, to sit on the large deck below the pool, enjoying a glass of wine, taking in that stunning scenery. It's something that just sticks in my head. Here at home, I sometimes close my eyes, and can actually place myself there again. There are lots of different areas for enjoying all the different views around the property as well. We did have rather chilly weather while there, and a couple of rainy days, but it didn't disturb any of our plans. As much as we love the property, Nico is the heart and soul of everything. We will be back.

We checked out on Saturday, May 21, 2016, and drove to Varenna, on Lake Como. We always stay at Albergo Milano, https://www.varenna.net/ in Room #2 on the second floor with large terrace. This was our fourth stay at the Albergo. This is not an easy hotel to get to, as there is no parking close by, so you must either park in the parking ramp or find a free parking spot on the street, outside of town. We always try and find a parking spot along the street for free. But, the hotel is located down many steps from the main street, although there is also a rather steep ramp, if you can figure out where it is located. It is much closer to the hotel, but you have to park on the busy main street, and it's a busy road, forcing cars to go around you. Because I'm not much help to my husband with all the luggage, and steep steps, we stop at the curb, unload the luggage and then he goes to find a parking place. He returns, takes part of the luggage down the steps to the hotel, while I wait for him to return for me and the rest of our things. If you are traveling light, this won't be much of a problem. The rooms are small, but #1 and 2 have large wonderful terraces overlooking the lake., with both lounge chairs, as well as a table and chairs/with umbrella. It is truly stunning. The rooms above those two rooms, have small balconies, with the same view. The hotel serves a small breakfast each morning, and it has a terrific restaurant, which serves dinner on a very large terrace overlooking the lake most evenings. VERY romantic. There are many wonderful restaurants in Varenna. The property is also very close to the lake Ferry Docks. I must say that we are getting older, and may not return to the Albergo, because of the difficulties with arrivals and departures. We love Varenna and the lake is spectacular. Would I recommend the Albergo? Absolutely, just want anyone considering it, to be aware of the issues. You will not find a better view anywhere on the lake.

Our final four nights were spent at the Palazzo Tiepoletto in Venice. We have stayed in the studio apartment fronting the Grand Canal many times and loved it. It was already booked a year and half out, so we settled on the two bedroom across from the studio. Same view, very different situation. Each apartment is owned by a different person, although in the family. We were disappointed the moment we walked in the door. Kind of old and tired. Two bedrooms, and two bathrooms, although neither bedroom has a door, but a curtain. The first night, a very loud party was raging until 3:00 a.m., in the apartment above us. You would think the walls and floors of these old Palazzo's would be very thick, but guess not. Okay, we can forgive that night. Night two, and it was a nightmare. Starting about 11:00 p.m., people started ringing our doorbell, asking if we were having the party? I was in bed, so husband was dealing with it. A bit later, the doorbell rings again, asking if we are having the party? Now, it's midnight. I got up and my husband and I both answered the door, and we were not in the mood for pleasantries. We had noticed that many rooms in the Palazzo have now been turned into apartments. The renters were not friendly in any way. Back to the party. The owner of the apartment where the party was, came down the steps to tell her "clients," I mean friends where to go. We had asked in a loud tone, "What is Going on?" She came over and said she was having an Architectural Meeting, with a very important guest!!!???? We said, "At midnight?" The party ended around 3:00 a.m., with a bunch of men at the water door yelling for a "Taxi." They were also yelling up to the woman's window, which I assume was at the front of the Palazzo. The following morning, we called the owner, who was out of town, but another person came over to calm us down. She then broke the news that exactly the same type of "meeting???" was going to be held that night as well. They did try and keep the noise down, but a third night of no sleep for us. On our fourth and last night, the Palazzo next door, which is a place where large parties are held, was rented out for a birthday party. The walls are very thin, taxi's lining up to pick up the guests around 2:00 a.m., and then large flat boats lined up to pick up all the tables, chairs and other party supplies afterwards. We then had a 4:00 o'clock taxi pickup for our 6:30 a.m., flight home. Venice was packed with 8 cruise ships in, and this may be our very last trip to Venice. Thank goodness, we been many times, as I think we've had enough.

I came home sick as a dog, from lack of sleep....BUT Tuscany and Varenna were wonderful. I'm sad about Venice, it was absolute chaos everywhere. They really must do something about all those ships and day trippers. Two of the ships were mega ships. I do believe, if we return, we will Not stay on the Grand Canal again. We have put Venice behind us, and refuse to let that last four nights ruin the rest of our trip.
 
Thanks for all the details Sharon. What has Venice turned into? A party town? So sad. We've only been there once, in 1996, and it was crowded then!

But everything else sounded like fun. I plan to return to Nico's also. We had a lovely week there a couple of years ago and enjoyed going to our favourite Tuscany spots. And Lake Como is on my mind too.
 
Thanks for all the details Sharon. What has Venice turned into? A party town? So sad. We've only been there once, in 1996, and it was crowded then!

But everything else sounded like fun. I plan to return to Nico's also. We had a lovely week there a couple of years ago and enjoyed going to our favourite Tuscany spots. And Lake Como is on my mind too.
Pauline, We actually felt that Venice had turned into a party town. There were boats going up and down the Grand Canal all night long, with music blasting. We had never experienced this before. As much as we always loved staying on the Grand Canal, if and when we return, we will rent an apartment away from that area.
 
Pauline, We actually felt that Venice had turned into a party town. There were boats going up and down the Grand Canal all night long, with music blasting. We had never experienced this before. As much as we always loved staying on the Grand Canal, if and when we return, we will rent an apartment away from that area.
Pauline, I was just re-reading your Sant'Antonio trip report from 2014 and saw that you once rented La Fornicina We did as well, and loved the place, although that road leading to the house, was really something, wasn't it? We wanted to rent it again, but it was sold. When you stayed there, was the female cat named Bruce in residence? Really loved that kitchen and garden area. Also, hearing the bells from Montisi, was rather magical!
 
Sweet Brucie! We were there when there was a momentous event in her life. She was hugely pregnant (photo where she's coming down the stairs), then she wasn't (photo where she's showing off her trim tummy). She didn't give birth, she was neutered and the kittens aborted. The last photo is Bruce with her brother Sheila at the door begging to come in. I always love cats, but I would have brought these two home if I could.

Darn, I can't seem to upload the images. I'll see if I can get them into the photo area and then link to them.

I LOVED La Fornacina too. My husband and I spent two weeks there in April/May 2002.

This link should take you to the photos.

http://www.sloweurope.com/community/media/albums/bruce-and-sheila-at-la-fornacina.49/

full
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sweet Brucie! We were there when there was a momentous event in her life. She was hugely pregnant (photo where she's coming down the stairs), then she wasn't (photo where she's showing off her trim tummy). She didn't give birth, she was neutered and the kittens aborted. The last photo is Bruce with her brother Sheila at the door begging to come in. I always love cats, but I would have brought these two home if I could.

Darn, I can't seem to upload the images. I'll see if I can get them into the photo area and then link to them.

I LOVED La Fornacina too. My husband and I spent two weeks there in April/May 2002.

This link should take you to the photos.

http://www.sloweurope.com/community/media/albums/bruce-and-sheila-at-la-fornacina.49/
Chris, Love the photo's. We loved coming home at the end of the day, finding Bruce waiting for us. We also made sure her outside bowls were full of food and water. When we opened our door, she would march right inside and find her comfy chair. We missed our own pets, so she really helped ease the sadness. I wonder if the new owner's for La Fornacina inherited her?
 
Was it just Bruce? I wonder what happened to her brother Sheila. Maybe they found another home for him. They were very young then, maybe 9 or 10 months old. She would be an old lady now if she's still alive.
 
Was it just Bruce? I wonder what happened to her brother Sheila. Maybe they found another home for him. They were very young then, maybe 9 or 10 months old. She would be an old lady now if she's still alive.
Yes, it was just Bruce. Zak actually asked us to fill her bowl each day outside the back door. No mention of any other kitty.
 
We were there in September 2001 (I think it was that trip). Didn't I leave a note for you Chris, hidden in a book? We had the first two SlowTrav GTGs at that house.

There was a white cat then and she was having a problem with her ears. The owners were from San Francisco and I had heard they sold the house. Remember that bathtub? Marble and square - took forever to fill and was very awkward. I loved the garden and views and location.

Chris, I inserted one of those cat photos - they are very cute!

The marble bathtub - looks good but not practical.

la-fornacina-002407.jpg


The cat.

la-fornacina-002452.jpg


House and garden.

la-fornacina-002458.jpg
 
Oh, how I wish we could still rent that house! I hope you all had a car with an automatic transmission! We didn't, and the drive up that hill, with the twists and turns, was something else. Zak met us on the day we arrived, and said, "I guess that's your clutch burning?" It certainly was....LOL! We did get better at it over the week we stayed there.
 
Oh, that tub! The worst ever. The marble seemed to suck all the heat from the water too, so by the time it had enough water, it was cold. Maybe the white cat was mother to Bruce and Sheila.
 
And yes, you did leave a note in the book, and I left one for someone who followed, I don't remember who.
 
We had an automatic. I don't remember the driveway, but back then Steve always drove. Now we share the driving.

Several ST people rented that house. Great location!
 

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