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N. ITALY - Dolomites part 3

BEERMAN

100+ Posts
September 11-26, 2024







Our first night's sleep in the Dolomites at Cesa Sassela was very comfortable. We find beds hit or miss when traveling, but the beds and everything else were wonderful at this lodging. We woke up at sunrise, opened our balcony door and saw clear blue skies. We rarely stick to a rigid itinerary, especially with irregular weather patterns. Alpe di Seceda was at the top of our to do list and we hoped to see it on a clear day, so we plugged it into this morning's itinerary.

We had purchased some eggs etc in town to fix in our apartment, but we opted for just coffee/tea and threw some granola bars in our bag to hopefully beat the crowds. We packed relatively light for this trip using only a small roller each and a small waterproof backpack. We did bring our light weight down jackets (they compress nicely) and we layered up appropriately. The walk to the gondola, Funivie Seceda Spa, was less than ten minutes, very convenient. We paid 45 euro per ticket which Included the gondola to Funes and the cable car to Seceda. There were only a handful of people at the gondola at 0900, so we enjoyed a quick private ride to Funes. The cable car to Seceda had maybe 8 people. Always double check the operating hours, the cable car station hours for our day were 0830 to 1700, but times vary.


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After two lovely rides, rising high above the valley, we stepped out of the cable car and were greeted by colder temps around 25 degrees Fahrenheit. There was an early snowfall which made for a beautiful landscape! Warmer afternoon temps caused some melt resulting in very icy walkway conditions in the morning. There weren't many people around at 0930, but many that I saw were not dressed appropriately for the conditions? most of them didn't venture too far from the cable station viewing area offering a gorgeous view and a warm cafe! We were happy we brought our hiking poles, the first 100 yards uphill was on solid ice. At the top of this first hill you stand at around 8200 feet with the most glorious 360 degree panoramic view of the Puez Odle Nature Park area. Val Gardena and Austria are gorgeous from here!!




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There was heavier snow near the ridge trail because of drifting, but visitors who came before us had nicely blazed a manageable trail up and along the ridgeline that kept our socks dry....until I stepped aside for a returning group and sunk up to my knee, ha so much for a dry leg!



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The trail traversing this amazing ridgeline offers the biggest and most majestic views one could ever want to see. With very few people it was peaceful here and made for an enjoyable walk. The trail ultimately meanders downhill and not far below is a wonderful chalet Baita-Hutte Sofie. We enjoyed a nice hot chocolate and pastries here and good conversation with a young couple from California. The hut is only a short walk from the cable car station. It was there we realized we timed our visit well, clouds were quickly rolling in and covering Seceda. It reminded me of our good fortune at seeing Alaska's Mt McKinley/Denali from base to summit, our guide said only 10% of visitors get to enjoy that full view. We felt lucky again and would keep our fingers crossed for continued good weather!


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During the morning we talked with several visitors and a couple were prepared to hike all the way back to Ortisei! With the slippery conditions we decided to take the cable car back to Funes, then continue on foot from there along the snow free alpine trails. I can imagine a springtime hike up and back would certainly be a beautiful day! Our hike down through the trees and open spaces reminded us of hiking around Lauterbrunnen. It was a beautiful trail, crossing small streams, passing timber framed farm buildings, enjoying the remaining colorful flowers and saying hello to the occasional cow wearing its bell.


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After maybe an hour we came around a bend and actually saw a restaurant tucked away! Ustaria Costamula is an incredible off the beaten path restaurant. We grabbed a table on the outdoor veranda and enjoyed a nice lunch and since we were only 30 minutes from town I had a couple beers!!


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This restaurant has had a serious makeover and the inside is large with a blend of history (circa 1608) and modern touches, beautiful spot. We had plans to return for dinner on our last evening, via car, but you'll understand why those plans unfortunately fell through in an upcoming post. The remaining portion of our hike was actually the most exhausting, it's a steady steep descent along the narrow country lane, my knees really don't like that!


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Back at our lodge we gladly took full advantage of the spa amenities, had the place to ourselves and my knees felt great! As the sun began to set we walked down to town for some shopping and German food for dinner. Food was a tasty change, but I missed my pasta ;-) It was another early night for us, we were probably sound asleep by 2200.



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What a great day! To be continued............
 
Sloooow down ;-) this is part 3 of a continuing group of posts "N. ITALY" written by me. In part 2 we rented a car in Verona and drove to Ortisei, self guided trip!
 
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