September 11-26, 2024
Sorry for delay, we have been in the mountains of West Virginia for an extended getaway! I'll include our final two days in the Dolomites in this part 4, or I'll never finish writing before our next European adventure! Read to the end, it gets interesting!
Now back in the village of Ortisei, Val Gardena.... The weather was absolutely perfect during our visit, waking up early to blue skies always a plus! During breakfast we looked at possible day trip options outside of Ortisei.
The Dolomites encompass s a large area, I read some 6,000 square miles geeesh! It has 18 prominent peaks around 10,000 feet, Marmolada "The Queen" being the tallest at 10,968 feet. The 1.5 hour drive southeast to Marmolada could include many other detour options, but we decided to drive the opposite direction making a 1.5 hour curve west to north to visit Lago di Braies (aka Pragser Wildsee).
The drive was easy, much of it via auto strada, and through the windshield there are beautiful sights to see. Once off the motorway we traveled a two lane road making only one stop for coffee. Soon we were in Prags Valley and driving up into the Prags Nature Area, bicycle traffic picks up in these parts. We did not panic park and found several spots in P4 right next to the impressive Grand Hotel Pragser Wildsee and the lake.
We had read that this lake experiences large crowds, so much so that they started limiting the number of visitors a couple years ago. Crowds were larger compared to Seceda and Ortisei, but we were not overwhelmed during our 2 mile plus hike around the glacier lake. During pre-trip planning we discussed arriving at the lake around sunrise, but we took our time and arrived around 10:30.
On the shoreline near the hotel sits a wonderful small chapel, even saw a bride and groom getting photographed. What a nice spot for a destination wedding!
The walking is very easy around the beautiful turquoise waters. Away from the hotel the only amenities you'll find are small bathrooms halfway around. Gorgeous lake! At the end of our circumnavigation, we rewarded ourselves with a slice of pizza and a tall beer!
We decided to avoid the autostrada and took some side roads back, or shall I say up and over to Ortisei. It was a nice drive, but be warned that it does constrict to some very narrow and unpaved single lane roads. At one point we came face to face with a vintage Rolls Royce that was going way too fast around a corner. We backed up and hugged the edge allowing barely enough room for them to pass, not even a wave from driver or passengers?! We made a couple stops along the way to admire some really amazing views.
As we drove over the mountain we were greeted with jaw dropping vistas of Val di Funes. We were confused about the name of a church we wanted to see, we would repeatedly say "is it St Magdelena, St Johann or St Giovanni???" We first drove to St Magdelena and discovered you needed to hike to it? Maybe we'll try that tomorrow? Driving back through the valley we see a little church in a large field, THATS IT!! A small sign with an arrow read "Visit, St Johann" and after more research we see it's also known as St Giovanni. Our timing was perfect, only a couple of visitors at this lovely spot!
Driving the back roads we were at our chalet in around 30 minutes to enjoy the spa amenities before sunset and dinner. There's a trendy brick oven pizza ristorante Turonda Bistro in the middle of Ortisei. It was very good and offered much more than just pizza! It's popular so we had to sit at the bar, we don't that! We sat next to a couple of very nice Dubliner's spending a long weekend.
Next morning, our last full day, starts with perfect weather AGAIN! We decided to start close to home and get a good hike in. From our door it was only a 5 minute walk to the Funicular Resciesa. It's a fast, comfortable ride to a mountain top restaurant and viewing area. We were on the first funicular so we started our hike to hopefully avoid any crowds. The trail was pretty clear with some snow and ice. The views of Val Gardena, Alpe di Siusi etc were breath taking. We made it to a mountain hut that was open, hot chocolate was tempting but we decided to continue our trek. As we approached the top of Resciesa di Fuori we stopped into a lovely small Chapel with a view!
From there it was up to the peak at 2284 meters where we were rewarded with the best panoramic views of the Alps that I could hope for. Cherry on top was a large beautiful carved woodened crucifix, just amazing. Not sure if I mentioned how wood carving is so prominent and masterfully done here, true artistry everywhere you walk.
We hiked the amazing ridge trail in the direction of Seceda, which was always in sight. The snow/ice on the upper trail was much heavier than our trail up, glad we brought our hiking poles. We meandered down the mountainside until we reached another hut, this time we stopped for a snack! Temperature was pleasant so we sat outside at picnic tables. I was starving, we ordered a really strange combo to share, brats, fries, strudel, beer and hot chocolate haha!!!
Now here's where my day starts to really go downhill, before our food came I told my wife I was feeling really exhausted, barely keeping my eyes open in the bright sunlight, even with sunglasses. Food and drinks came and I figured I'd feel better after a little snack. I finished a little bit of everything and said let's get down this hill...but first we had to say hello to the donkeys!
After 4 plus hours we returned to the funicular and restaurant where we started. I was sluggish but doing ok waiting for the funicular. At the apartment I asked my wife to go shopping while I took a short nap. Soon after she left my body said "GOOOOOD, YOU'RE ALONE!" Once that violent episode was over I fell asleep like a baby! My wife texted an hour later and said she'd bring home something to eat...not sure about that! She was able to enjoy her pasta dinner, a little spa time and 16 hours later I jumped out of bed and said "I'm feeling good!" Our hostess said it sounds like I had elevation sickness, which I've never experienced even at much higher altitudes. We said our thank you and farewells to the wonderful staff at Cesa Sassela and began our descent.
The Dolomites deserve more than 4 nights, it's so vast and has a million must sees. We enjoy hiking and would love to bring our daughter over in late spring or early Fall sometime. In need of some lower elevations and maybe a few degrees warmer we hit the road for Limone sul Garda!
To be continued...CHEERS!
Sorry for delay, we have been in the mountains of West Virginia for an extended getaway! I'll include our final two days in the Dolomites in this part 4, or I'll never finish writing before our next European adventure! Read to the end, it gets interesting!
Now back in the village of Ortisei, Val Gardena.... The weather was absolutely perfect during our visit, waking up early to blue skies always a plus! During breakfast we looked at possible day trip options outside of Ortisei.
The Dolomites encompass s a large area, I read some 6,000 square miles geeesh! It has 18 prominent peaks around 10,000 feet, Marmolada "The Queen" being the tallest at 10,968 feet. The 1.5 hour drive southeast to Marmolada could include many other detour options, but we decided to drive the opposite direction making a 1.5 hour curve west to north to visit Lago di Braies (aka Pragser Wildsee).
The drive was easy, much of it via auto strada, and through the windshield there are beautiful sights to see. Once off the motorway we traveled a two lane road making only one stop for coffee. Soon we were in Prags Valley and driving up into the Prags Nature Area, bicycle traffic picks up in these parts. We did not panic park and found several spots in P4 right next to the impressive Grand Hotel Pragser Wildsee and the lake.
We had read that this lake experiences large crowds, so much so that they started limiting the number of visitors a couple years ago. Crowds were larger compared to Seceda and Ortisei, but we were not overwhelmed during our 2 mile plus hike around the glacier lake. During pre-trip planning we discussed arriving at the lake around sunrise, but we took our time and arrived around 10:30.
On the shoreline near the hotel sits a wonderful small chapel, even saw a bride and groom getting photographed. What a nice spot for a destination wedding!
The walking is very easy around the beautiful turquoise waters. Away from the hotel the only amenities you'll find are small bathrooms halfway around. Gorgeous lake! At the end of our circumnavigation, we rewarded ourselves with a slice of pizza and a tall beer!
We decided to avoid the autostrada and took some side roads back, or shall I say up and over to Ortisei. It was a nice drive, but be warned that it does constrict to some very narrow and unpaved single lane roads. At one point we came face to face with a vintage Rolls Royce that was going way too fast around a corner. We backed up and hugged the edge allowing barely enough room for them to pass, not even a wave from driver or passengers?! We made a couple stops along the way to admire some really amazing views.
As we drove over the mountain we were greeted with jaw dropping vistas of Val di Funes. We were confused about the name of a church we wanted to see, we would repeatedly say "is it St Magdelena, St Johann or St Giovanni???" We first drove to St Magdelena and discovered you needed to hike to it? Maybe we'll try that tomorrow? Driving back through the valley we see a little church in a large field, THATS IT!! A small sign with an arrow read "Visit, St Johann" and after more research we see it's also known as St Giovanni. Our timing was perfect, only a couple of visitors at this lovely spot!
Driving the back roads we were at our chalet in around 30 minutes to enjoy the spa amenities before sunset and dinner. There's a trendy brick oven pizza ristorante Turonda Bistro in the middle of Ortisei. It was very good and offered much more than just pizza! It's popular so we had to sit at the bar, we don't that! We sat next to a couple of very nice Dubliner's spending a long weekend.
Next morning, our last full day, starts with perfect weather AGAIN! We decided to start close to home and get a good hike in. From our door it was only a 5 minute walk to the Funicular Resciesa. It's a fast, comfortable ride to a mountain top restaurant and viewing area. We were on the first funicular so we started our hike to hopefully avoid any crowds. The trail was pretty clear with some snow and ice. The views of Val Gardena, Alpe di Siusi etc were breath taking. We made it to a mountain hut that was open, hot chocolate was tempting but we decided to continue our trek. As we approached the top of Resciesa di Fuori we stopped into a lovely small Chapel with a view!
From there it was up to the peak at 2284 meters where we were rewarded with the best panoramic views of the Alps that I could hope for. Cherry on top was a large beautiful carved woodened crucifix, just amazing. Not sure if I mentioned how wood carving is so prominent and masterfully done here, true artistry everywhere you walk.
We hiked the amazing ridge trail in the direction of Seceda, which was always in sight. The snow/ice on the upper trail was much heavier than our trail up, glad we brought our hiking poles. We meandered down the mountainside until we reached another hut, this time we stopped for a snack! Temperature was pleasant so we sat outside at picnic tables. I was starving, we ordered a really strange combo to share, brats, fries, strudel, beer and hot chocolate haha!!!
Now here's where my day starts to really go downhill, before our food came I told my wife I was feeling really exhausted, barely keeping my eyes open in the bright sunlight, even with sunglasses. Food and drinks came and I figured I'd feel better after a little snack. I finished a little bit of everything and said let's get down this hill...but first we had to say hello to the donkeys!
After 4 plus hours we returned to the funicular and restaurant where we started. I was sluggish but doing ok waiting for the funicular. At the apartment I asked my wife to go shopping while I took a short nap. Soon after she left my body said "GOOOOOD, YOU'RE ALONE!" Once that violent episode was over I fell asleep like a baby! My wife texted an hour later and said she'd bring home something to eat...not sure about that! She was able to enjoy her pasta dinner, a little spa time and 16 hours later I jumped out of bed and said "I'm feeling good!" Our hostess said it sounds like I had elevation sickness, which I've never experienced even at much higher altitudes. We said our thank you and farewells to the wonderful staff at Cesa Sassela and began our descent.
The Dolomites deserve more than 4 nights, it's so vast and has a million must sees. We enjoy hiking and would love to bring our daughter over in late spring or early Fall sometime. In need of some lower elevations and maybe a few degrees warmer we hit the road for Limone sul Garda!
To be continued...CHEERS!