Years ago I was on the old SlowTrav site and found it very helpful. Now I have discovered Slow Europe. We have been to France several times, each trip to a small geographical area for 2-3 weeks (Loire, Lot Valley, Central Massif, Languedoc-Roussillon). We like to stay in one place 7-10 days, or more. Our main interest is moderate day-hiking (no more than 90 minutes away from where we are staying), but we also like city sightseeing, art, music. For our first trip back to Europe since 2019, we are planning a 3-4 week visit to Provence in October, likely flying into Marseilles, where we will rent a car. We would appreciate recommendations on 2-3 different towns or cities to stay in or near where we can get in our hiking/walking, but with enough alternative activities within easy distance if the weather is inclement. The places can be maybe 2-6 hours drive from each other. I'm looking at the Luberon area, of course, but don't understand the geography enough to decide on a central place (maybe it requires two locations). It looks like there are many places to visit around Marseilles, but we don't want to stay in the city itself. On this trip we are not planning a coastal drive towards Nice - that will be for another year! Your input would be appreciated!
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Provence Provence in October 3-4 weeks
- Thread starter dayhiker
- Start date
Penn251
100+ Posts
We spent 10 days in Vasion-la-Romaine and found it nice town with a central square, some Roman ruins and a great weekly market. It's a short jaunt to Gigondas where you can pick ip hiking trails in Dentrelles de Montmirail and also head up to Mont Ventoux from there. If wine is your thing, close to the Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Chateauneuf de Pape ares. Easy drives to Aix, Rousillon or Avignon. We liked the apartment we rented, directly across from the Roman ruins and a short walk to the central square.
Ted in Ottawa
New Member
We returned from the south of France 4 days ago. We have visited Provence at least a dozen times, maybe more. We generally rent self-catering accommodation, though we are always on the lookout for good restaurants too. We tend to follow your general approach: find a base for several days and radiate outward from there on day-trips.
The Luberon is an obvious candidate, but I would avoid places too close to Avignon -- that's a fairly densely settled area, with a lot of traffic. Very different from when I first stayed there, in 1970! If you go a bit further east - east of Gordes, anyway - you can find less spoiled, more genuinely rural spots without sacrificing your access to the picture-postcard villages of Menerbes, Oppede-le-Vieux, Lacoste, Bonnieux, St Saturnin-les-Apt, Venasque and so on.
We also returned this time to the Fontaine de Vaucluse, which I found a very cheery, lively place worth a short visit.
We tend to avoid the big tourist draws: Gordes, Roussillon, Isle sur la Sorgue. We made an exception for Avignon and were very glad we did. We did not tour the Palais des Papes but concentrated on strolling the back streets of this remarkable city. If you go, do NOT miss the Rue des Teinturiers, lined with plane trees bordering a XIXth C canal.
If you like hiking, you're only about 45 minutes from the Gorges de la Nesque, which are both visually impressive and physically challenging. South of the Luberon valley (about 45 minutes) are the Gorges du Regalon - a slit canyon with cliffs about 100 or 150 feet high and a minimum width of about 5 or 10 feet in some spots. Not for the squeamish.
FWIW, we rented a gite for 4 nights at the Domaine des Peyre outside Gordes - a large and lavish vineyard property that we had all to ourselves for 2 of the 4 nights.
_______________________________________
Another spot we consider an ideal base is the vicinity of Tarascon/ Beaucaire.
The chateau of Tarascon is an extraordinary gem; otherwise, there is not a great amount to see in these twin cities facing each other across the Rhone. We stayed twice just outside Tarascon in a gite at the Chateau la Panisse, an olive-producing property with a grand main house.
From there, it was a short drive to the Alpilles and Les Baux; to Arles and the Abbaye de Montmajour; to the troglodyte Abbaye de St Roman. Nimes, Pont du Gard and Uzes are less than an hour away.
Then there's the whole of the Camargue at your doorstep, including the bull-fighting centre of Les Saintes Marie de la Mer.
The popular tourist town of St Remy is also nearby but has never interested me, so we skip it.
_______________________________________
The Drome is an unfairly neglected "departement" whose southern half, the Drome Provencale, is my favourite region of all. It welcomes few N American visitors and generally moves at a slower pace than the urbanized countryside of the Luberon or the Aix countryside. It is gorgeous and well equipped with restaurants, weekly markets and other amenities
The Vercors mountains are a highly visible backdrop and there are lots of rolling hills but there are also verdant plains of vineyards, a pleasure to drive. Among my favourite places:
La Garde-Adhemar (where we spent 5 nights -- our 3rd stay at "Chez Loubet", a superb rental)
In the same general area, near the Rhone: the chateau ruins at Allan, St Paul-trois-chateaux, Grignan, Suze-la-Rousse, Rochegude
A bit further north: Marsanne, Mirmande, Grane, Saou, Bourdeaux, Comps, and the medieval quarter of La Begude de Mazenc
In the east of the region: Nyons, Dieulefit, Poet-Laval, Buis les Baronnies
The Drome is also a good base for reaching the Gorges de l'Ardeche just across the Rhone.
The Luberon is an obvious candidate, but I would avoid places too close to Avignon -- that's a fairly densely settled area, with a lot of traffic. Very different from when I first stayed there, in 1970! If you go a bit further east - east of Gordes, anyway - you can find less spoiled, more genuinely rural spots without sacrificing your access to the picture-postcard villages of Menerbes, Oppede-le-Vieux, Lacoste, Bonnieux, St Saturnin-les-Apt, Venasque and so on.
We also returned this time to the Fontaine de Vaucluse, which I found a very cheery, lively place worth a short visit.
We tend to avoid the big tourist draws: Gordes, Roussillon, Isle sur la Sorgue. We made an exception for Avignon and were very glad we did. We did not tour the Palais des Papes but concentrated on strolling the back streets of this remarkable city. If you go, do NOT miss the Rue des Teinturiers, lined with plane trees bordering a XIXth C canal.
If you like hiking, you're only about 45 minutes from the Gorges de la Nesque, which are both visually impressive and physically challenging. South of the Luberon valley (about 45 minutes) are the Gorges du Regalon - a slit canyon with cliffs about 100 or 150 feet high and a minimum width of about 5 or 10 feet in some spots. Not for the squeamish.
FWIW, we rented a gite for 4 nights at the Domaine des Peyre outside Gordes - a large and lavish vineyard property that we had all to ourselves for 2 of the 4 nights.
_______________________________________
Another spot we consider an ideal base is the vicinity of Tarascon/ Beaucaire.
The chateau of Tarascon is an extraordinary gem; otherwise, there is not a great amount to see in these twin cities facing each other across the Rhone. We stayed twice just outside Tarascon in a gite at the Chateau la Panisse, an olive-producing property with a grand main house.
From there, it was a short drive to the Alpilles and Les Baux; to Arles and the Abbaye de Montmajour; to the troglodyte Abbaye de St Roman. Nimes, Pont du Gard and Uzes are less than an hour away.
Then there's the whole of the Camargue at your doorstep, including the bull-fighting centre of Les Saintes Marie de la Mer.
The popular tourist town of St Remy is also nearby but has never interested me, so we skip it.
_______________________________________
The Drome is an unfairly neglected "departement" whose southern half, the Drome Provencale, is my favourite region of all. It welcomes few N American visitors and generally moves at a slower pace than the urbanized countryside of the Luberon or the Aix countryside. It is gorgeous and well equipped with restaurants, weekly markets and other amenities
The Vercors mountains are a highly visible backdrop and there are lots of rolling hills but there are also verdant plains of vineyards, a pleasure to drive. Among my favourite places:
La Garde-Adhemar (where we spent 5 nights -- our 3rd stay at "Chez Loubet", a superb rental)
In the same general area, near the Rhone: the chateau ruins at Allan, St Paul-trois-chateaux, Grignan, Suze-la-Rousse, Rochegude
A bit further north: Marsanne, Mirmande, Grane, Saou, Bourdeaux, Comps, and the medieval quarter of La Begude de Mazenc
In the east of the region: Nyons, Dieulefit, Poet-Laval, Buis les Baronnies
The Drome is also a good base for reaching the Gorges de l'Ardeche just across the Rhone.
elizbuth
10+ Posts
My choice would be to stay in the Luberon east of Gordes and then move to Saint-Rémy de Provence. I love being in the Luberon with all its wonderful markets, and the LEVEL! paved trail along the Calavon River is delightful for biking or hiking.
I haven’t stay in St. Remy before, but we always end up driving there for the Wednesday market and to see the show at Carrières des Lumières. I also adore Arles, and both of them are close enough for trips to Avignon, Pont du Gard, and up and down the Rhone.
I haven’t stay in St. Remy before, but we always end up driving there for the Wednesday market and to see the show at Carrières des Lumières. I also adore Arles, and both of them are close enough for trips to Avignon, Pont du Gard, and up and down the Rhone.
chachalaca
100+ Posts
Hi Dayhiker,
You have a lot of great information here. We've stayed in Vaison twice and I just want to add that the Tourist Offices offer all kinds of hiking activities. For example in nearby Cairanne we signed up for a vineyard tour that began around 6pm and we just hiked from vineyard to vineyard and there was wine to taste and a small meal at the end overlooking the area.
In the Lot we also did a hike with the T.O. That was just a hiking club so we met some locals and there was no fee at all.
Laura
You have a lot of great information here. We've stayed in Vaison twice and I just want to add that the Tourist Offices offer all kinds of hiking activities. For example in nearby Cairanne we signed up for a vineyard tour that began around 6pm and we just hiked from vineyard to vineyard and there was wine to taste and a small meal at the end overlooking the area.
In the Lot we also did a hike with the T.O. That was just a hiking club so we met some locals and there was no fee at all.
Laura
elizbuth
10+ Posts
I re-read your question and noticed the October date and I have a petit warning.
One year we went some some friends to the Luberon. I had told them about the wonderful clear light in Provence, but we discovered that the date when people could start burning vine-cuttings, etc. outside was in mid-October. Instead of the clear light the artists paint, we had smokey air.
One year we went some some friends to the Luberon. I had told them about the wonderful clear light in Provence, but we discovered that the date when people could start burning vine-cuttings, etc. outside was in mid-October. Instead of the clear light the artists paint, we had smokey air.
We are a little more sure of our plans, but could still use some advice. We are flying into and out of Nice rather than Marseille because the routing was so much better for us. (Arrive Oct 2, leave Oct 27). So we will spend 2-3 nights in Nice at the beginning our trip. Then the plan is a circle: the Luberon for 10 nights, Montpellier for 5 nights (we visited on a day trip years ago and want to get to know the city better), somewhere near Aix-en-Provence for 5 nights, then possibly Antibes 1-2 nights before heading to the Nice airport and home. Montpelier doesn't seem to fit but we want to stay there anyway.
We are looking at Apt or Vaison-la-Romaine for the 10 might stay. Most of you like Vaison, but I looked at Apt because of location and size. Has anyone stayed in Apt?
Any suggestion near Aix-en-Provence where we can get a bus or train to visit Marseilles for a day trip?
Thanks so much for your advice!
We are looking at Apt or Vaison-la-Romaine for the 10 might stay. Most of you like Vaison, but I looked at Apt because of location and size. Has anyone stayed in Apt?
Any suggestion near Aix-en-Provence where we can get a bus or train to visit Marseilles for a day trip?
Thanks so much for your advice!
elizbuth
10+ Posts
I haven’t stayed in Apt, but it is the “big city” in the Luberon with an amazing Saturday market. I imagine parking in Apt would be difficult, so I would stay somewhere near Apt in one of the lovely smaller villages or in a rural gite. We’ve stayed in Goult a number of times, but I’d also recommend Menerbes, Joucas, Bonnieux, Gargas, Robion, Malbec - really anywhere in the Luberon on the western side of Apt.
Penn251
100+ Posts
Look at this thread below. We stayed at the apartment Roz reviewed and it is everything she says. As she suggested we contacted the owner and Booked directly with him.
www.sloweurope.com
Provence - Provence (Vaucluse), Vaison-la-Romaine, townhouse in village, 2 BR
https://www.vrbo.com/370928ha (link updated 2022-09) https://abnb.me/abbG3JKyjtb (link added 2022-09) Owner's Email: glube6283 at rogers dot com {written like this to prevent robots from picking up the email} Ten-day stay, October 2014. This was one of the best vacation rentals Mike and I...
www.sloweurope.com
chachalaca
100+ Posts
We stayed in Apt about ten years ago at Christmas and we've visited during summer just for the market days. I think it's a great village/tiny city and the market is amazing.
We stayed just outside of the old section of the village, but still right in town, and I cannot find the listing. It was amazing so I'm going to keep looking for it; we kept saying how wonderful it would be to stay there when it wasn't freezing because there is a great patio and garden.
Staying near the old section keeps you in walking distance of all shops and the market. It is a good location to visit some of the perched villages, lavender fields, etc. I think AiP might chime in with some great information for this area as well.
If you find a rental and need to overnight somewhere before your reservation begins, consider Le May Perreal Chambers hotes in nearby St. Saturnin d'Apt. It is amazing and ran by a long-time SlowTrav/SlowEurope member who is seriously the kindest.
Laura
We stayed just outside of the old section of the village, but still right in town, and I cannot find the listing. It was amazing so I'm going to keep looking for it; we kept saying how wonderful it would be to stay there when it wasn't freezing because there is a great patio and garden.
Staying near the old section keeps you in walking distance of all shops and the market. It is a good location to visit some of the perched villages, lavender fields, etc. I think AiP might chime in with some great information for this area as well.
If you find a rental and need to overnight somewhere before your reservation begins, consider Le May Perreal Chambers hotes in nearby St. Saturnin d'Apt. It is amazing and ran by a long-time SlowTrav/SlowEurope member who is seriously the kindest.
Laura