Puglia Puglia two weeks - thinking two towns

[RachelP]

Hello and help me please!
Planning for two weeks in Puglia from 22 Sept. I am travelling with my older kids... 21, 16 and 11. WE will have a car. WE want to explore the area, food, beaches, culture ( I get it is not summer but we still love a good beach). Recommendations for TWO bases? Or would you stay in one place for two weeks and do some bigger day trips? Many thanks in advance. <3

 

[Ian Sutton]

I'd lean towards two bases, with one in easy reach of Martina Franca, Alberobello, Locorotondo etc. (the area with the Trulli houses). Each town makes for a lovely easy day trip

The 2nd week then either in/near one of the cities of Bari or Lecce, or heading up north to take in Trani, Castel del Monte, Gargano national park, or down to the peninsula around Lecce, or maybe even south west including a jaunt across into Basilicata to visit Matera

 

[Tina]

I agree with Ian. As regards his suggestion for the first week, in May 2022 we stayed near Fasano so within easy reach of the coast and the Valle d'itria. These are some of the places we visited from there:

Puglia in May: Valle d'Itria - Cisternino and Martina Franca

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Puglia in May: Valle d'Itria - Alberobello and Locorotondo

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Ostuni is also easy to reach. The beaches aren't bad along there - for example Torre Canne. But Torre Guaceto is absolutely splendid:

Puglia in May - Torre Guaceto Reserve

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As for the 2nd week, Trani is one of my favourite places........

Why I love Trani

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slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com

And yes, there is even a beach.
Gargano and Vieste are spectacular but beach facilities will mostly have closed down by the end of September.
If you want to take advantage of the beach head south to the Salento and Lecce area, you're more likely to find something open. I swam a lot the first ten days of October last year.....

Alto Salento in October: Campomarino di Maruggio, Chiesa Rupestre San Biagio

A blog about travel, vacations and holidays in Italy and Spain with advice, tips and trip reports

slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com

 

[Ian Sutton]

LOL, we also stayed near Fasano, in an agriturismo in the village called Speziale, where we felt the food was better than the accommodation.

A nod of agreement for both Ostuni and especially Trani, which served us brilliantly as a last day stop before a flight out of Bari airport. It deserved a longer stay.

 

[Mary Hanson]

Living here (Carovigno) i am going to recommend Ostuni. The center square at night is lively, the kids will have fun. Its an easy drive to Santa Sabina and the white sand beaches. If you live in the southern US the water will be too cold but we see Germans, Swiss swimming as late as mid-October. Easy train access to Polignano a Mare, Bari, Brindisi (where Ceasar launched the legions to fight Pompeii) and Lecce with its spectacular italian baroque architecture.
By car you can easily access Cisternino, with its whitewashed charming city center on the way to Locorotundo and Alberobello with its many trulli (cone shaped houses).

San Donaci Is a particularly ugly small industrial town. BUT its industry is Wine. Arguably among some of the best Italian reds in the world. The negroamaro grape was rescued from extinction by the Paololeo winery. Rarely available in the US with prices in the 40 and 50 dollar range this wine retails for 6-9€ depending on vintage. There are 3 wineries in town all have tasting rooms.

If you are a foodie Get out your Michelin. Within 25 miles of Ostuni are 5 michelin restaurants. Some with tablecloth some with stars. Add ìn Gambero Rosso recommendations and you WILL gain weight.

You can PM me on messenger Mary Hanson Italy

 

[RachelP]

Thanks Mary, Great post! Hahaha we are from southern Australia so very used to cold water. We will be swimming.

 

[Ian Sutton]

San Donaci Is a particularly ugly small industrial town. BUT its industry is Wine.

The wine very much worth exploring in Puglia. The emphasis mostly on reds, but there is definitely local pride in the rosés (Leone di Castris '5 roses' probably the most famous, and apparently the 1st rosé bottled in Italy). Salice Salentino worth trying especially with food. Primitivo seems to split into two camps. The lower (13-14% alc) wines that I personally enjoy much more, and the 16-18% alc wines that are aiming for a similar place in the wine world to Zinfandel (the grape is nominally the same grape, though grapes do adapt to their location). Other regional DOCs e.g. Brindisi and all have the potential to be good & really good value for money (but there are some that don't impress as well, but I still like the odds of getting value for money).

Whites aren't that big a focus, but they're not absent e.g. Locorotondo. Special mention though to Moscato di Trani which makes a fine dessert / end of meal wine.

My favourite of all are the reds of Castel del Monte, typically majoring on the Nero di Troia grape, with one of the best known also one of my favourites - Rivera's Il Falcone.

 

[lisaonthecape]

I'm with Ian, too. I would make one base in the lovely Itria valley. We stayed just outside Cisternino, but there are so many choices in that area. Then, I think you need to choose whether to go north or south. If you head north, I would probably stay in Bari and if south, Lecce. Matera in Basilicata is also very tempting. We've only been to Puglia once and are dying to go back.

 

[wco81]

Just a personal opinion, liked Ostuni and Matera a lot more than Alberobello.

I know the Trulli houses are what they publicize about Puglia but they were just okay.

Only did day trip there though, maybe it's great at night too.

But I stayed in Ostuni, which is very atmospheric at night.

Would love to stay in Matera over night, because that was also a day trip.

 

[lisaonthecape]

Just a personal opinion, liked Ostuni and Matera a lot more than Alberobello.

I know the Trulli houses are what they publicize about Puglia but they were just okay.

Only did day trip there though, maybe it's great at night too.

But I stayed in Ostuni, which is very atmospheric at night.

Would love to stay in Matera over night, because that was also a day trip.

Agree with you about Alberobello. I think it's worth a visit, but I wouldn't make it my base. We went early in the day, saw what we wanted to see, and booked out of there before the tour buses and crowds rolled in.

 

[Jim Zurer]

Trani.....our favorite place in Puglia.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Agree with you about Alberobello. I think it's worth a visit, but I wouldn't make it my base. We went early in the day, saw what we wanted to see, and booked out of there before the tour buses and crowds rolled in.

Ditto, we quickly figured Alberobello wasn't going to be for us, but did enjoy each of the other towns

 

[Pauline]

We spent a week in Ostuni in 2015 and liked the town. Parking can be difficult. Here is my trip report:

Puglia and Basilicata

We have arrived in Ostuni! The flight went well. Driving out of Bari airport was kind of insane. We saw an Ape on the road (that's when I know I am in Italy), a hooker and lots of olive trees. Found our way into Ostuni but could not follow the owner's complicated directions. Luckily @jonathan...

www.sloweurope.com

 

[Mary Hanson]

The wine very much worth exploring in Puglia. The emphasis mostly on reds, but there is definitely local pride in the rosés (Leone di Castris '5 roses' probably the most famous, and apparently the 1st rosé bottled in Italy). Salice Salentino worth trying especially with food. Primitivo seems to split into two camps. The lower (13-14% alc) wines that I personally enjoy much more, and the 16-18% alc wines that are aiming for a similar place in the wine world to Zinfandel (the grape is nominally the same grape, though grapes do adapt to their location). Other regional DOCs e.g. Brindisi and all have the potential to be good & really good value for money (but there are some that don't impress as well, but I still like the odds of getting value for money).

Whites aren't that big a focus, but they're not absent e.g. Locorotondo. Special mention though to Moscato di Trani which makes a fine dessert / end of meal wine.

My favourite of all are the reds of Castel del Monte, typically majoring on the Nero di Troia grape, with one of the best known also one of my favourites - Rivera's Il Falcone.

Thanks for some recommendations. Some of these I know well (28 km to Brindisi) but I generally stay from dessert wines so I will definitely try the Moscato. There are some local mom and pop whites that I enjoy. You know the bottle with no label? The one cousin Giuseppe made? Unfortunately Covid killed my favorite local restaurant which served it. Now I can hunt for your recommendation.

 

[Mary Hanson]

I agree with Ian. As regards his suggestion for the first week, in May 2022 we stayed near Fasano so within easy reach of the coast and the Valle d'itria. These are some of the places we visited from there:

Puglia in May: Valle d'Itria - Cisternino and Martina Franca

A blog about travel, vacations and holidays in Italy and Spain with advice, tips and trip reports

slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com

Puglia in May: Valle d'Itria - Alberobello and Locorotondo

A blog about travel, vacations and holidays in Italy and Spain with advice, tips and trip reports

slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com

Ostuni is also easy to reach. The beaches aren't bad along there - for example Torre Canne. But Torre Guaceto is absolutely splendid:

Puglia in May - Torre Guaceto Reserve

A blog about travel, vacations and holidays in Italy and Spain with advice, tips and trip reports

slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com

As for the 2nd week, Trani is one of my favourite places........

Why I love Trani

A blog about travel, vacations and holidays in Italy and Spain with advice, tips and trip reports

slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com

And yes, there is even a beach.
Gargano and Vieste are spectacular but beach facilities will mostly have closed down by the end of September.
If you want to take advantage of the beach head south to the Salento and Lecce area, you're more likely to find something open. I swam a lot the first ten days of October last year.....

Alto Salento in October: Campomarino di Maruggio, Chiesa Rupestre San Biagio

A blog about travel, vacations and holidays in Italy and Spain with advice, tips and trip reports

slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com

The turtle rescue at Torre Guaceto is in full gear. Well worth a visit. Vicious winter storms this year meant lots of hurt turtles. My dog sitter walked the beaches nearly every day all of March. She rescued 6.

 

[Mary Hanson]

Just a personal opinion, liked Ostuni and Matera a lot more than Alberobello.

I know the Trulli houses are what they publicize about Puglia but they were just okay.

Only did day trip there though, maybe it's great at night too.

But I stayed in Ostuni, which is very atmospheric at night.

Would love to stay in Matera over night, because that was also a day trip.

If Trulli are your thing Locorotundo has more of them than Alberobello. They just aren't as concentrated.