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Yorkshire Richmond Castle, North Yorkshire

Richmond Castle was originally built to subdue the unruly North of England after the Norman Conquest and is one of the greatest Norman fortresses in Britain. No other castle in England can boast so much surviving 11th-century architecture – it is probably the best-preserved castle of this scale and age in the country.

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Standing high above the River Swale, the early Norman castle was built in the 1070s by Alan Rufus, a kinsman of William the Conqueror. The lands, known as the Honour of Richmond, were granted to him by King William for his service and to maintain Norman dominance over the surrounding area. He was one of the richest and most powerful men in England. A town grew up under the protection of the Castle.

Alan constructed long stretches of the curtain wall, Scolland's Hall, and the archway of the keep (Great Tower) in the 1080s.


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After Alan died in 1093, the castle passed to his two younger brothers, Alan the Black and Stephen. Stephen's son, another Alan, styled himself Earl of Richmond and held the castle until 1136. Alan married Bertha, heiress of the Duke of Brittany, but died before the dukedom came into his hands.
Alan's son Conan successfully asserted his claim to the dukedom of Brittany in the 1150s, thus uniting the two vast inheritances of Richmond and Brittany. He was responsible for building the stone keep with a small barbican as statement of his increasing power and wealth.



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The cockpit garden seems to date from then as does the surrounding wall with its gateway.

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In 1166, he betrothed Constance, his only heir and daughter, to Henry II’s fourth son, Geoffrey, ceding the duchy of Brittany to the king as part of the agreement. When Conan died in 1171, Constance was only nine and Henry II took control of the Castle. Although Geoffrey and Constance married in 1181, the castle remained in royal hands until the end of King John’s reign, having been granted to a series of royal favourites.

Edward I seized control of Richmond and began repairs to the castle. This included the addition of a ground floor vault in the keep, upgrading Scolland's Hall and extending the range along the east wall. Edward or one of the 14th century dukes also added apartments to the Robin Hood Tower and Gold Hole Tower as well as constructing the Southwest Tower. Duke John of Brittany would oversee the last building campaign at the castle when new chambers and the chapel were added to the north end of Scolland's Hall.

In 1313, the duke's second son, John of Brittany and Earl of Richmond, received money to construct a town wall as the area was subject to a Scottish raid after the English were defeated at Bannockburn in 1314. The town was raided, but the castle was spared.

At the inquest into the duke's death in 1341, it was noted that the castle was in ruins and the buildings within required significant repair. The castle continued to lapse into a ruined state and was no longer of any military value. A survey in 1538 indicates a derelict castle with roofless buildings and fallen walls at the castle.

Richmond Castle remained a ruin for 300 years until the 3rd Duke began repairing the keep and Cockpit garden in the 1760s. The works of JMW Turner and other artists in the late C18th and early C19th greatly encouraged admiration of the castle as a romantic ruin, and the town became a fashionable place for tourists to visit.

In 1854, the Duke of Richmond leased the castle, and it became the headquarters of the North York Militia. The keep was restored and floors and roof replaced. The ground floor was used as a guard room with an armoury above. A castellated barrack block was built along the length of the west curtain wall.
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A detention block of eight cells was also added just inside the castle entrance, next to the keep.

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The central area was used as a parade ground.

In 1907, the castle became the headquarters of the Northumbrian Division of the Territorial Army. Robert Baden-Powell, founder of the Boy Scouts, was based here as a commander for a brief period in 1910.

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In 1910, the army handed over the historic fabric of the castle to the Ministry of Works, but retained control of the buildings. Work began to restore the buildings with walls repaired and repointed.

In 1916, the castle became the base for the newly created Northern Non-Combatant Core. Confronted by falling numbers of volunteer recruits and high casualty rates, the British army faced a crisis in manpower. As a result, military conscription was introduced. The conscription laws allowed men to apply for exemption from military service on the grounds of ill-health, hardship, occupation, or conscientious objection. Thousands did so. Of the relatively small numbers who applied on the grounds of conscience, few were granted total exemption from serving in the war. Instead, many were ordered to join the Non-Combatant Corps. This was a military unit in which they could work in support roles that did not involve fighting or the use of arms. Richmond Castle became a base for conscientious objectors from the Midlands and north of England whowere sent there in their thousands.

However, some men who had been ordered to join the Corps refused to take part in any work touching the war effort, because it went against their fundamental beliefs. In 1916 a number of them were detained in cells at Richmond Castle. The walls of these tiny rooms are still covered with graffiti including portraits of loved ones, religious verses, slogans and hymns.

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Some of these conscientious objectors, who became known as the Richmond Sixteen, were sent to France in May 1916. Once there, they were considered to be on active service, which meant that they might face a firing squad if they refused to obey orders. They were given 24 hours to decide whether to follow orders or risk being shot. Refusing, they were court-martialed and sentenced to be executed by firing squad. This sentence was immediately commuted to ten years of penal servitude. They were released in April 1919 following the Armistice of 11 November 1918.

After the war, there was a housing shortage and the Victorian Barrack block was used by Richmond Council as housing. The last tenant left in 1928 and the block was demolished in 1931. The whole site then passed into the care of the State.

Richmond Castle was pressed into service again during World War II when the roof of the keep was used to watch for enemy aircraft activity in the area, and the keep itself was used as an air raid shelter. In the 1940s, the cells again detained prisoners, although these were foreign soldiers and not conscientious objectors.

Richmond Castle has been in the care of English Heritage since 1984.

Plan of the castle

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Richmond Castle is set high above the River Swale and reached by narrow cobbled lanes from the market place.

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It is entered through the remains of the barbican. A gateway next to the keep leads into the castle enclosure, with the well, the only source of water. Next to the gateway is the C19th cell block which is no longer open in an attempt to protect the graffiti carved on the cell walls by Conscientious objectors during the First World War. This leads into a large open grassy area surrounded by the curtain wall and buildings.

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The massive curtain wall was built in the C11th. There is little left of the domestic buildings built against this wall although the remains of latrines can still be seen in the wall.

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There were three square towers along the eastern side. Only the Robin Hood and Gold Hole Towers are still standing. The third has has since collapsed.

In the south east corner is Scolland’s Hall with remains of the buttery and pantry .

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To the south west is the remains of another tower along with the south western gate. This was the main supply route as it was near the kitchens and storage buildings. The C19th barrack block was built along this wall. Near here was the site of a large chapel. In 1278 John II Earl of Richmond, requested 6 cannons come from Egglestone Abbey to pray for the soul of his late wife, Beatrice. He left enough land and money to pay for their services in perpetuity and they special permission to leave the castle if it was attacked.

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Robin Hood tower is the first along the curtain wall from the entrance. It was built in the late C11th, but its name is probably a romantic Victorian invention. It stood next to a postern gate. The upper floor was reached from a passage way in the curtain wall.

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On the ground floor was St Nicholas Chapel, a rare survival of an early castle chapel. The stone altar filled the base of the window arch. Round the walls was a stone bench with a series of arches above that would have been seats

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The principal domestic apartments were in the south east corner and their layout can best be seen from the top of the keep.

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The main building was Scolland’s Hall which was built in the C11th, along with the Gold Hole Tower and gateway to the Cockpit Garden. The Great Chamber and Chapel next to it were added in the C13th along with the buttery and pantry to the far side of Scolland’s Hall.

Scolland’s Hall is one of the most important surviving examples of early medieval domestic architecture in England and is named after a long-serving steward of the castle. It is now roofless.

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The undercroft on the ground floor would have been used for storage. At the far end, an archway led through to the Cockpit Garden.

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Above was the hall which would have been reached by an external stone stair. This was the most important room in the castle and would originally have been heated by an open fire in the centre of the floor. This was the place the lord of the castle entertained and fed his household. It was also used for administration and legal proceedings.

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At the east end was a small withdrawing room or solar, built over the passageway to the Cockpit Garden. It was the private quarters of the lord of the castle and his family.

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It had access to the Gold Hole Tower. This was a tall square tower projecting from the curtain wall and contained the latrines. The upper floors were used as a living area. The name was given to it in the C19th after a story of gold being found in its foundations.

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The Great Chamber was added in the C13th to provide more comfortable and intimate rooms for the Lord of the Castle and his family and could be accessed from the solar.

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There was a chapel on the first floor still with its piscina and squint which allowed a view of the altar from the Great Chamber. The family could follow the church service in private.

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On the far side of Scolland’s Hall were the domestic rooms added in the C13th. Barrels of beer and wine were stored in the buttery, bread and dried goods in the pantry. The kitchen was next to these, possibly along the section of wall that has collapsed down the hill into the river. All had direct access to the first floor hall by stairs and passages through the western wall

The Cockpit Garden was a small enclosed private garden, overlooked by the solar and reached by a gated archway from Scolland’s Hall. It is best seen from the top of the Keep.

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It was probably used by the Lord and his family for feasting and musical events. In a drawing of the castle from 1400 it is shown with what look like fruit trees. Cockfighting was a popular sport in the C16th-18th and there is a record of a cockfight in a notebook kept by the Second Duke of Richmond in 1745. The C19th garden had flower beds, green houses and an orchard with old varieties of cooking apples.

The present garden was planted in 2000, with a cobbled path round the edge of the central grassed area. On the upper terrace are sixteen topiary pieces made up of green and golden yews. These are a reference to the 16 conscientious objectors sent to France and court martialed in 1916.

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The Keep still dominates the castle. A stone keep was added in the C12th over the original castle entrance. It was a symbol of the prestige and importance of the Honour of Richmond. The interior seems to have been designed for the formal reception of visitors rather than a living area as there are no kitchen or domestic services.

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The ground floor is a large stone vaulted area. The massive central pillar was probably added by Edward I in the C13th to accommodate a well beneath it. A stone staircase leads up through the wall to the first floor.

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The main entrance to the first floor was originally by an external staircase. It is now via the top of the adjacent cell block.

The first floor room has a stone pillar supporting the ceiling. Off are smaller rooms probably used for storage.

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A stone staircase leads to the second floor room.

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This was the most important room in the Keep, reflected in the quality of the stonework. Only the most influential were allowed here. The Lord of the Castle oversaw their vast estates from here and also heard complaints and settled arguments. Now it is furnished by two modern ceremonial chairs.

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More stone stairs lead to the roof with its views down onto the Castle and across Richmond.
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