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Scotland Rosslyn Chapel, Midlothian

Rosslyn Chapel must be one of the best known buildings in Scotland, but with its magnificent carving it is also one of the most impressive medieval religious buildings in Scotland. It has been a tourist destination since the late C18th when Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott put it on the tourist map and became world known after the publication of Dan Brown’s ‘Da Vinci Code” and the film.

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Stone carvings cover the chapel’s entire interior surface, and much of its exterior. Many different stories are told about the chapel. Some have said that its founder was trying to leave a message for future generations to decipher. Some of the carvings suggest a connection to the Freemasons and others to the Knights Templar. Some Believe the Holy Grail, the cup that Jesus drank from the night before He was crucified, was brought here by the Knights Templar and buried here for safekeeping… We will probably never know as many of the documents relating to the life of William Sinclair and the origins of the chapel were destroyed in a fire.

Rosslyn Chapel, originally known as the Collegiate Church of St Matthew, was founded in 1446 by Sir William St Clair (Sinclair), Earl of Orkney and Caithness. The St Claires had come across from Normandy with William the Conqueror and had become rich and powerful land owners.

The chapel was designed as a private place of worship for the family and also as their burial vault. It would ensure Sir William’s place in Heaven, with priests praying for his soul.

It was a massive project and the town of Roslin was built to accommodate masons and other workers, who were very well paid. Regular masons received a salary of 10 pounds per year, with Master masons earned as much as 40 pounds a year. It was built using stone from Roslin Glen and in the latest Gothic style with pointed windows and arches and flying buttresses. It was planned with nave, transepts, central tower, choir and a crypt.

Sir William died in 1484 and was buried in the chapel. Work was continued by William's son, Sir Oliver St Clair, but only the chancel and sacristy (crypt) were completed. The transepts and nave were never built. It isn’t known if money ran out or whether Sir Oliver didn’t want to spend any more of his inheritance on such an expensive project, as unfortunately most of early documentation has been lost.

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After the Reformation in Scotland in 1560, the Sinclairs continued to use the chapel in secret for Catholic services until 1592. It was then abandoned and the altars removed. It gradually fell into disrepair.

During the Civil War, it was used as stabling by Parliamentary troops.

Some repairs were carried out in the mid C18th when windows were glazed, the floor relayed with flagstones and the roof repaired.

With the rise of Romanticism the late C17th, people like Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, JMW Turner and Dorothy Wordsworth visited the ruins and the chapel began to become a popular tourist spot.

Despite this, by the C19th, the building was in a bad condition. The limestone had absorbed large amounts of moisture. Mosses, ferns, and other plants began to grow inside the chapel, causing even more damage to the stones. It had become known as the ‘Green Chapel’.

Queen Victoria visited the chapel in 1842, expressed the desire that it be ‘preserved for the country’ and she wanted to see it as working church again. The 3rd Earl of Rosslyn employed the architect David Bryce to do the job. Stained glass was fitted for the first time and the chapel was rededicated in 1862. A new porch which included a baptistry and organ loft was added on the west side in 1881. It is a different colour, being built of a different stone to the rest of the chapel.

By 1954, the limestone had absorbed so much water, it was regularly running down the inside of the walls. In 1954, the Ministry of Works in Scotland declared that the building was suffering extreme effects of the dampness, and if nothing were done, the dilapidated building would likely be condemned. A restoration project was quickly begun.

Fine brushes and ammonia were used to remove all debris and plant material and to thoroughly clean the stone. The stonework was then coated with several layers of cement slurry. Not only did this cover much of the fine detail, it also sealed moisture inside the stones.

By the 1990s the chapel was getting in a dangerous condition again. In 1997 a protective cover was erected over the building to allow the stone to dry out.

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Roofs were recovered in lead, a new rainwater system installed and a new heating system. Cracks and crumbling stonework has been repaired.This achieved a much more stable and comfortable internal environment. Stained glass was removed, cleaned and repaired. The metal canopy was removed in 2010 and work was completed in 2013.

The publication of Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code resulted in a massive influx of visitors from 30,00-40,000 per year to nearly with nearly 200,000 a month. The income provided much needed funds to restore the building as well as funding new visitor facilities.

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Visits are by timed ticket only. These allow 90 minutes at the site which included a 15 minute talk inside the chapel covering its history and some of the carvings. The Visitor Centre has display panels covering the history of the St Clair family, the building if the chapel and its preservation as well as a shop and cafe.

The chapel was situated on the northern bank of the North Esk River, on the northern side of Roslin Castle. It was bounded on all sides, except the north, by steep slopes descending towards the river.

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According to the original plans, it was to consist of a nave with side aisles, transept and a three-aisled chancel. The whole was to be in the shape of a Latin cross, but in the end only the chancel was built.

A corridor led down the stairs from the south-eastern corner to the so-called sacristy, or crypt below.

The stonework of the C19th porch is very different to the rest of the chapel and is decorated with statues of the four evangelists along with St Anna and St Agnes.

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The flat walls of the unfinished transepts can be seen along with structures like piscinas and carving , intended to be on the inside not outside wall of the chapel.

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Side aisles are lower and have flying buttresses and pinnacles.

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The Lady Chapel at the east end end of the chapel is lower and the top of the steps leading down into the crypt can just be seen below it.

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Windows are highly carved with arches which would have contained statues. Gargoyles can be seen above doorways. You need binoculars to appreciate many of the carvings.

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The splendid memorial outside the church is to Robert St Clair-Erskin, 4th Earl of Rosslyn, who died in 1890.

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Understandably with the numbers of visitors, photography is NOT allowed inside the chapel, although there are always a few with mobile phones trying to take sly pictures. Visitors are given a plan with details of the more significant carvings.

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The ‘protective’ cement slurry used in the 1950s restoration means that the detail of many of the carvings is now lost. The following pictures were taken from the display panels in the Visitor centre.

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Crucifixion

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Horned moses with the 10 commandments

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Hanging boss with the eight pointed star of Bethlehem, telling the story of the Nativity with Virgin and Child

The two pillars leading into the Lady Chapel deserve special mention. The one on the left was carved by the master mason. The far one was carved by an apprentice.

The master mason was unhappy with his pillar and travelled to Europe for inspiration. While he was away, a young apprentice had a dream of a wonderful pillar he could carve. On telling of his dream, and the amazing pillar, Sir William allowed the apprentice to have a go.

The master mason returned full of ideas, only to see the wondrous Apprentice pillar in all its glory. He flew into a fit of jealousy and struck the apprentice on the head with a mallet, killing him. Both have carved heads on the west wall.

The story has links to Freemasonry and the building of the Temple of Solomon and Hiram Abif, its alleged master mason. He was sworn not to tell the secrets of his masonry to anyone and was killed by being struck by a mallet when he refused to reveal them.

The sacristy or crypt is much plainer than the chapel above with carved ribs across the ceiling. This was used by the master builders as a workshop while the chapel was being built. It was later used as a burial place for the St Clairs.

I’ve very mixed views about the visit. Rosslyn Chapel is somewhere I’ve been wanting to visit for a long time. The inside of the building is amazing, but it is difficult to see many of the carvings and yo also share the building with a very large number of other people. I’m glad I’ve been but I’m not sure that I would go back.
 

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