Sant'Antonio, southern Tuscany

[Marcia]

At long last we will be spending a week at Sant'Antonio in early May. We are not totally unfamiliar with the area but I know many of you have the expertise that comes from several visits. What should we not miss while we are there? - towns, enotecas, restaurants, drives, sites, tell me everything.

 

[Heidi]

How wonderful Marcia! I've never stayed there, so didn't know exactly where Sant'Antonio is located but I found Pauline's report/interview and a Google map search showed it is very close to Montepulciao and La Foce in some of my favorite territory.

The Val d'Orcia is spectacular! Have you read Iris Origo's War in the Val d'Orcia? Highly recommend it! She and her husband restored La Foce, another amazing property close by. I have had the pleasure of staying there for a week with friends. If you know the area from a previous trip, then you may already know that you can take a garden tour of La Foce, if that interests you.

Sant'Antonio looks fabulous ! Enjoy!

 

[Rebecca]

Where's Jane when you need her? Seriously, every time we've gone to Sant' Antonio I have all these plans and then I just find myself sitting on the terrace drinking wine. I loved the garden tour at La Foce... I think that's just Wednesdays. I've been to the Abbey of Sant' Antimo near Montalcino but never heard the Gregorian chants. That's on my list for June. I love the drive between Montepulciano to Monticchiello to Pienza. Lunch at La Porta in Monticchiello. My mom's favorite city is Pienza so we've been there a lot. No complaints since I usually stock up on cheese and honey for "now and later" treats. San Biagio, below Montepulciano, is one of my favorite churches so we always stop. The one thing I love to do in the area (which is the one thing the kids have always hated) is just drive. I'm really loking forward to that this time.

 

[Ann]

Here's a list of towns and sights in the area that I made years ago, taken from various sources:

Montepulciano - Piazza Grande: medieval Palazzo Comunale & unfinished Duomo, w/ della Robbia on L as you enter – 16th C. Rnnaissance Contucci Palace w/ cantina in basement cellars (down side lane) – Renaissance San Biagio at bottom of town

Chiusi – National Arch. Museum, Via Porsenna – can visit catacombs & Etruscan necropolises

Montalcino - beautiful medieval village is perched high on a hill with spectacular views of the entire Val d'Orcia - visit inside the fortress a wine-tasting bar to taste the incredible Brunello and also the Rosso di Montalcino

Sant'Antimo – just outside Montalcino - monastery which tradition says was first established by the Emperor Charlemagne. In this serene medieval church, several times each day, the monks gather in the sanctuary and sing Gregorian chants, and the public is welcome to attend (12:45, 2:45)

Pienza - beautifully preserved Renaissance gem for its outstanding architecture and its incomparable setting - completely redesigned by Pope Pius II in Renaissance times, and it was seen as an 'utopian town' by the Italian people. It has changed little since then, with a great number of ornate, centuries-old buildings packed into a relatively small area - cathedral was designed by the architect Rossellino in 1459. Its outstanding features are huge stained glass windows, dazzling Sienese altarpieces in the chapels and 16th century tapestries in the crypt - Papal Palace, the Palazzo Piccolomini, is adjacent to the cathedral. Its apartments, which were occupied by the Pope's descendants until 1968, are open to the public. A dazzling hanging garden and arcaded courtyard lie directly behind the palace, offering spectacular views of the valley - On the outskirts is a Romanesque parish church that is well worth visiting, the Pieve di Corsignano.

San Quirico d'Orcia - most important structure is the Collegiata Church. Also within its largely preserved city walls is a beautiful public garden, Horti Leonini and Rose Garden - remarkably "untouristy"

Castiglione d'Orcia - set high on a hill near Monte Amiata, in the middle of the Val d'Orcia, between Pienza and Montalcino - dominated by the imposing Citadel (Rocca degli Aldobrandeschi), keeps its medieval flavor intact - fountain made of travertine, dating from the 1600s, stands in piazza - Church of Saints Stefano and Degna is a Romanesque building with a façade dating from the 1500s. Church of Santa Maria Maddalena, with a Romanesque stone façade, dating from the 1200s. Citadel of the Orcia (or Rocca di Tentennano) in Rocca d'Orcia, a tiny town, in the near distance – drive from here to Castelnuovo dell'Abate (Sant'Antimo) follows a ridge & frequently gives panoramic views in two directions

Radicofani - clings to cliffs located just below strange volcanic peak which can be seen from the full length of the Val d'Orcia - two churches with beautiful terracotta sculptures from the Della Robbia family workshop: San Pietro and Santa Agata. These stunning blue-and-white glazed altarpieces should not be missed - palace of the Medici family, "La Posta", is located on edge of village; built in the late 1500s - great medieval tower that tops the fortress at top, with great view

Abbadia San Salvatore - one of best preserved medieval centers in Italy –abbey founded in 743 by Lombard king - at peak of its temporal and spiritual powers in 1035, was rebuilt and reconsecrated - Benedictine community reinstalled here in 1939

Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore - 12th century monastery belongs to the Benedictine order - home of many beautiful and extraordinary frescoes painted by Luca Signorelli (1497) and Antonio Bazzi

Crete Senesi (Le Crete) - one of most photographed areas in Italy - little vegetation and deeply eroded gullies, which looked carved by a cosmic sculptor - medieval villages, cottages, churches and fortified castles everywhere - most beautiful part of the Crete: from Monte Oliveto Maggiore head E to San Giovanni d'Asso & continue E to Montisi, turning R toward Castelmuzio & Pienza.Pass Sant'Anna in Campregn Abbey, featured in "The English Patient" (w/ early Sodoma fresco), & turn left for Pienza - between Asciano & Buonconvento (SP 451) also beautiful

Castelmuzio - finest agricultural and artisanal products in the local area of Trequanda, the region of Castelmuzio. Every Saturday and Sunday you can buy the finest extra virgin olive oil in all of Italy, meats, wine, cheese, cold cuts, honey, jams and preserves as well has hand-crafted items that are produced within just a few km of the market

 

[Pauline]

I second everything Ann wrote. This is a beautiful area with much to see and do. Sant'Antonio is in the perfect location. I hope to stay there someday soon.

 

[Ann]

We've spent a total of 5 weeks in the area, both at Sant'Antonio and in Montepulciano itself. You'll love it, Pauline. For restaurant recommendations , here's a great list. Also, we went to da Fiorella in Pienza on Nico's suggestion and have returned at least 3 times. More restaurant suggestions soon.

 

[Jane]

Marcia, well, you know I love SA and Nico passionately. You will, too. As far as what to do, not only think about the above recs for restaurants but rely a lot on what Nico suggests as places change, go out of business and new ones arrive. A favorite of many of us is now closed--such as A Gambe di Gatto. We haven't been to Osteria Aquachetta since it is defined seating times (which we don't like), but it is worth going to just for the experience and the bistecca is always to be remembered. As far as towns, all the main places are listed above and just traveling to them gives you excellent country side views and ohs and ahs. If you go to the abbeys, you should try to arrive at the times that the monk's chant as that is a great experience; although, be sure you have time before or after to explore the frescos at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. And, if you arrive when Gail is in residence, be sure to get to Montisi and lunch at da Roberto's . Also, there is a wonderful restaurant in Trequanda (0n way to Montisi) called Ristorante Conte Matto with outdoor seating overlooking the countryside.

I do recommend that, weather permitting, you plan to leave time each day just to enjoy the beauty of SA and the total relaxation you will find there. It is a world apart. And, as always, give warm baci e abbracci from us. Oh my, there is so much more to say but others will do that.

 

[Marcia]

This is exactly what I need! Thank you all so very much.

A few housekeeping questions now. We will be driving/arriving from points south on the Saturday afternoon. Where should we stop for basic groceries?

Also, we will have been traveling for over a week when we get to Tuscany. Ideas on getting some laundry done?

 

[Ann]

I'd do my shopping at the Conad supermarket in Montepulciano, which is open till 8pm on Saturday, I think. Nico can give you directions -- it's very easy to find. Jane, I'm so sorry to hear that A Gambe di Gatto is closed. We've had several lovely lunches there -- it's rare to find such enthusiasm anymore, for food, wine, or jazz. But I have to report that we were less than satisfied with l'Aquachetta. The bistecca was not up to what it had been in the past, and all 4 of us felt that we were in some kind of theatrical production (with you-know-who as the star) rather than in a good restaurant. Marcia, one place I can highly recommend is Osteria del Conte, up at the top of Montepulciano -- don't worry, there's a way to drive up to the top so you don't have to walk. It's not sophisticated cuisine like you'll find at Le Logge del Vignola (also highly recommended), just a good, family-run trattoria with very solid cooking. So good that we went back a second time the week we discovered it. Have fun, and do give Nico a hug from Hawaii.

 

[Rebecca]

Thanks for the list, Ann! I was also looking forward to Gambe di Gatto again and was disappointed when I heard it had closed. My kids loved it and that's a minor miracle.

We shop at the Conad after we check in on Saturdays. Easy to get to with a parking lot underneath the building (which had changed to a pay lot the last time we were there).

Suzanna has done a couple of loads of laundry for me for not too bad of a price. Although, I never know when she has the time to do it...she is always running around. She always says one to two days and she always manages to get them back in the same afternoon. Nico also provides a drying rack.

 

[Heidi]

Wonderful list Ann!

Though I've never stayed at Sant'Antonio, this thread brings back so many memories, as we've stayed in the area at least half a dozen times. The only easy day trip I would add to your possible list, is Citta della Pieve, just over the border in Umbria. It has a wonderful medieval feel and the works of Perugino, a native son, are worth a visit.

We also enjoyed Buonconvento, a flat, walled city on your way to Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore; actually situated just to your left, as turn right off the main No.2 road toward Siena. Siena is a longer day trip but doable, if you you are motivated enough to leave your lovely, relaxing Sant'Antonio for a full day.

By the way, on our last stay in Montepulciano, we were ecstatic ~ odd what gets you excited when you're on the road ~ to find a self-serve laundromat at the top of the town at Via del Paolino.

 

[Wendy&Rob]

The following is from one of my posts on ST, last May, when we stayed at Sant'Antonio. I hope it will help some of you when you are visiting Nico's Haven.

Before that, let me say we L O V E D Cantine Medicee, outside the walls of Montepulciano. Actually we ate there for two of our dinners. Outstanding food both times, prepared by the most friendly and so young son of the owner. Also, be sure to have the choices of grappa shown to you. The Miele is wonderful. We brought 4 bottles home and that was not enough!

Anyway, here is a post I made from one of our days staying with Nico at Sant'Antonio, hope it helps....

"So, yesterday(Tuesday), I never left the property. Terrific! Rob went down to L'Angolo dei sapori Frutta e vedura Rosticcerie and picked up some supplies, and then he went to Conad for Illy and sugar. After we ate some of the pizza, prosciutto and pecorino, and I made coffee with a side of grappa ,

which we purchased the night before, we headed up to the pool area. It was just right, just what the doctor ordered, if you will...

We had a lovely dinner at Gattavecchi in Montepulciano, and at the end the owner and his wife - Jonata and Lillian - shared a grappa with us. they were so kind and Jonata even sent us 'home' with a bottle of their wine. We could not have asked for more.

Today, Wed., was an Abbey day. We headed toward S. Antimo, but as it was 12:30 and we were nearing the Abbey we stopped for lunch at Locanda S. Antimo for a plate of prosciutto, pecorino and we each had a plate of pici w/ wild boar ragu. Neither of us finished and when I apologized to the Mama and her DIL they offered to send the leftovers home w/us. It was truly delish, but I declined. The whole lunch experience was perfect, from entering the door to leaving....

Except... as Rob was waiting at the car, for me to join him, some stupid local woman(mid 30's), backed into our rental car and broke the left tail light lens. Rob pointed at her, but she non-chalantly drove off. Thank goodness I took full coverage.

Anyway, off we went and made it in perfect time to watch the monks enter the Abbey and go through their prayers and chants. Timing really is everything. We spent quite a lot of time their and we both got some wonderful images. I will be posting when we return.

From there we moved on to Monte Oliveto. The last time we visited I was really sick and could not stop coughing. I felt bad on two fronts, being sick with a cough and being so disruptive in such a peaceful place. Today was much better.

Tonight we have decided to stay in. We have a fire, are drinking some local wine, nibbling - because we don't need any more food - on leftovers from yesterdays gatherings from Rob's shopping spree, and we are now drinking some delicious grappa we picked up on our first night at Cantina Medicee. Oh, and I am writing to you."

Again, I hope this helps somebody. We loved our stay/time....

 

[Colleen]

My favorite town in that area was Montalcino. I felt like it had a purpose besides tourism. It was a last minute decision to go there, as we'd lazed by the pool at Sant' Antonio for most of the day - then got a burst of energy!

Favorite meal was at sunset on the terrace at La Porta in Montechiello. We'd started off by having a "Brunello taste off" and we were all enjoying it so much we just stayed for dinner.

As others have said, do save some time to just Be at the resort. A couple of my dearest memories of that week: the early evening we enjoyed a spread of antipasti on the terrace (garage roof!) and watched the sunset slip over the valley, and a night of sitting outside after dinner, talking, drinking grappa and limoncello by one of the barbeques, looking at the moon and stars twinkling on Lake Trasimeno.

 

[Bill]

We are staying in one of Nico's apartments in town in late June. Thanks for all the great information!

 

[Chris]

As of this morning, my apartment at Sant'Antonio is BOOKED for two weeks in May 2015! An opportunity to spend some time in Tuscany with my oldest and best friends popped up suddenly last week, so I grabbed it.

I haven't been to Italy since 2002, when Frank and I spent a lovely two weeks in a little cottage between Montisi and Castelmuzio.

 

[Wendy&Rob]

And, it is now time to return. You're staying at SA for two weeks? Dolce, Chris...