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Sicily: Trapani & Erice

CaWino

100+ Posts
I visited Sicily a couple of years ago and loved it! I am considering a return trip and Erice looks like an intriguing quaint seaside hilltop town. I am wondering if anyone has been there or nearby Trapani? The logistics of getting to Erice looks a little tricky and would like to know if it's better to stay in Trapani. I'm thinking three days in this general location.We would likely start in Palermo with an overall trip of 2-3 weeks. Any input/information would be most appreciated. Thanks.

Just for perspective, our last trip to Sicily included in this order: Siracusa, Modica, Piazza Armerina, Taormina, Cefalù, and Palermo. This time, I am considering starting in Palermo and going west to Trapani/Erice, Segesta, Marsala, Agrigento, Noto, Siracusa, Taormina, and Palermo. If there are any hidden gems, feel free to make suggestions.
 
I love the west coast of Sicily (and the east coast). I've been to both Trapani and Erice several times so I'm a fan. Erice is good for a day trip and easy to get to from Trapani. Some good ceramics shops. The tourist office has maps and an itinerary. Good pastries especially marzipan.

You can combine a day trip to Segesta and Erice then stay in Trapani. I'm assuming you are driving.

Trapani has several excellent restaurants. And it has wonderful sunset views on the causeway. And lots of small cafes to sit and people watch, if that's your thing. From Trapani, you can take a ferry to Favignana, one of the Egadi islands. Good for a day trip. As is Maretimo if you have the time. If you are driving, there is a free municipal lot near the historic center. I recommend you stay in the center. La Guancia is a great boutique hotel with a nice rooftop terrace.

While you are on the west coast, don't miss Mazara del Vallo, easy to get to from Trapani or Marsala. Lovely town on the water with the Dancing Satyr in its own little museum. I can recommend a b&b if you think you will stay there.

Selinunte is on the way to Agrigento if you can fit it in. Scicli and Modica are two more great towns on the way to Siracusa.

I can send more info later if you decide to do the west coast.

Linda
 
My husband and I spent five weeks in Sicily last spring. It was our second visit. Our first visit had an itinerary similar to your first visit. Second visit we started in Palermo and rented apartments for approximately a week in four other locations which we used as bases for driving around. Enjoyed everywhere we visited but we absolutely lovcd Scicli. If you are looking for a hidden gem this could be it. We liked it much more than Noto which we saw on our first trip, but very different places. We also used the tiny, untouristed town of Mozzarino as a base for touring that part of the island. It seemed very authentic old Italy to us and we really enjoyed staying there. We found Marsala a charming and interesting town to use as a base. We did day trips from Marsala to Mazara del Vallo, Trapani, Segesta, Erice and the salt marsh museum, and just to drive along the coast. You could also stop at Segesta on the drive from Palermo. You could consider staying six or seven days in Marsala, or other town of your choice, allowing you to rent an apartment, save time and hassle relocating from place to place, and do day trips. Distances are short. I am also assuming that you will have a car.

We ran into a couple of harmless but annoying scams involving parking and public bathrooms by the cable car to Erice. One man wanted us to pay him to park on the street and another to use the public bathroom at the base of the cable car. They are pretending to clean or work there but they don't, as confirmed by talking to the cable car operator. We saw the same guys approaching other cars as we returned after our visit.

If you have any questions I can answer I would be happy to help. If you haven't already, Google these towns to get a feel for them. I hear Rick Steves is putting out a guide book to Sicily soon. He travels to quickly for me, and only talks about limited places (tends to be where he takes his tours) but easy to read, good practical mostly accurate advice and might give you help in planning. You are going to have such a fun trip!
 
My "hidden gem" recommendation: A few years ago, we visited Cantine Florio in Marsala and took a very enjoyable tour. If you like Marsala wine (or any wine, for that matter), you will probably find something to enjoy here.
 
We just returned a couple of weeks ago from 2+ weeks in Sicily. Since you go by "CaWino" I'm going to guess that you might like to visit the Firriato Winery at Baglio Soria (outside of Trapani). We stayed there for 2 nights & found the place a little pretentious for dining (but very nice accommodations); however, the wines were very good & I highly recommend them. They do daily tastings. Here's a link to a wine blog written by someone w/solid creds. that you can peruse - https://charlesscicolone.wordpress.com/2017/10/02/firriato-sicilian-wine-at-its-best/

And, while we're at it, let me add that Mt. Etna wines are generally excellent as well and that there are quite a few small family run vineyards that are great to visit. Pretty much exactly where you're not planning to go, but...

At any rate, back to your itinerary: when in the Palermo area, definitely visit Monreale (if you haven't already). One of my best memories of the trip (& there are many). Segesta is up there as well, recommendation wise. As you go south around the west coast, I second others' recommendation that you visit Mazara del Vallo. Get a guide for this city, as there are lots of things going on that might otherwise be missed (the wall art project, the Yemeni residential area, etc). If you have time for lunch, we loved Cafe Garibaldi. Make sure that they show you the wine display along the walls -- great old bottles. The food is excellent. And, lastly, if you wind up in the Agrigento area, there's an Agritourismo in Arigona called Fontes Episcopi that is outstanding. Beautiful, large modern rooms (not at all rustic) but in a setting that includes vineyards, olive trees, ducks, peacocks & lots of veggies/herbs that they pick daily to use. Guests are welcome to assist in bread or pasta making and you get run of the house in a very friendly environment. Getting there is interesting, as it feels like you made a wrong turn outside of town and wound up in an abandoned inner city -- don't worry, its all good & one turn takes you into a heavenly setting. If you stay there, see if you can get a tour from their friend of a nearby hilltown called Sant'Angelo Muxaro. He took us in to the local baker's ovens & other places not visible from the streets (not storefronts but inside residential buildings), showed us the considerable re-development going on & generally was an incredible source of information & entertainment. A day very well spent.

Have fun.
 
Thanks to everyone for the fantastic recommendations! I'm getting "excited" about taking return trip to Sicily. Here are some other things to ponder:

1. Driving. I prefer not to drive, but sounds like I will have greater flexibility. We have driven in Sicily before. The driving part is fine, but the navigation, even with a GPS, was a challenge. We will likely drive some when practicable, but rely mostly on train.
2. Trapani/Erice. I'm thinking about three-four days. Does that sound about right? Hotel La Guancia sounds excellent and I have it bookmarked. I love rooftop terraces (Ambasciatori in Palermo is a favorite).
3. Mazara se Vallo and Scicli look excellent. Linda, I would appreciate the B & B recommendation.
4. Rick Steves. His itineraries are too fast for me, too. I'm a committed slow traveler. However, his guidebooks do give excellent nuts and bolts information. Rick is my "go to" for that purpose. His recommendations are solid.
5. Cantine Florio in Marsala. Another solid recommendation. I love Mt. Etna wines and we do plan to find our way back to Taormina, a favorite from prior trip.
6. Agrigento. Steve, the agriturismo in Arigona Fontes Episcopi sounds interesting option. How long?

Thanks again to everyone for valuable input. I don't know about everyone else, but planning is half the fun.
 
We also loved staying at the Ambasciatori in Palermo. We were there for 3 nights & the roofdeck was perfect. As an aside, the Rick Steves tour was there one of those nights (28 of them) & I wound up talking to their tour guide, who’s the one writing the Sicily guide book for him.
We stayed at Fontes Episcopi for 2 nights &, as much as I loved it, that’s probably enough for day trip purposes. We liked them enough to be pretty sad to leave though.
 
My husband and I will be going to Sicily next Fall with my sister, and BIL. Hopefully meeting up with friends who will also be there at the same time.

So, thanks to all of you for these suggestions.

DD
 
Here is a Palermo view from Hotel Ambasciatori's
IMG_2024.JPG
rooftop terrace:
 
How timely. I'm planning a trip to Sicily May/ June. I. I am also planning to stay in Scicli part of the time. I will start my own thread so as not to hijack this one.
 

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