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North East St John's Church, Escomb, Durham

The North East was a major centre of early Chritianity. Not only is the tiny church of St John is a rare survival of one of the earliest churches in England, it is the oldest complete Saxon church in the UK.

The church dates from around AD 675 and was built using stones from the Roman fort at nearby Binchester. Set in a circular graveyard with a tall stone wall, it is a typical Saxon building with very tall and narrow nave and smaller square chancel. The offset massive corner stones are typical of Saxon buildings.

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The windows on the north wall are the original Saxon windows. The other windows are larger and were added in the C13th. It has a stone slab roof with crow step gables and a small bell cote at the west end. The south porch was added in the C17th. The cross above the porch is made from Frosterley marble and may have been part of a preaching cross. The roof outlive of an earlier building can be seen on the west wall. There are suggestions this may have acted as a charnel house.

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Above the south porch is a later C17th sundial.

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That on the south wall is C7th sundial from when the church was built and is the oldest sundial in the country still in its original position. The marks indicate the time of service. Above it is an animal head and it is surrounded by a serpent, which have the appearance of arms. The three lines on the sundial indicate time for prayers rather than the time.

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This plan of the church is taken from the See Around Britain websiteand is a photograph from the guide book inside the church.

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Inside the porch are the remains of four grave covers and two Saxon cross shafts. These have interlaced Celtic designs and one has a bird swallowing another animal.

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Steps lead down into the church. With its whitewashed walls and large plain glass windows on the south wall it feels very light. The wooden beam roof dates from 1480-90 and the church was restored in the C19th. Most of the furniture and fittings date from the 1965 restoration of the church.

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Many of the stones on the walls have the characteristic cross hatching, ”diamond broaching” which was a distinctive feature of Roman work as it helped plaster to stick to the walls.

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The north doorway is blocked off. In Medieval times the north door was linked with superstitions and often referred to as the ‘Devil’s Door’. It was left open during baptisms so evil spirits could escape when the child was baptised.

The large and rather battered font at the back of the nave is thought to be C10th or C11th but may be a lot older. It is large enough to allow the total immersion of infants. It is sitting on a much more recent base. In the Middle Ages, this was refilled with water once a year at Easter and consecrated. The grooves in the top date from the C13th when fonts had to be covered and locked to prevent Holy Water being stolen for superstitious practices.

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On the wall behind the pulpit is is a small incised consecration cross, thought to date from the building of the church.

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A tall narrow archway leads into the chancel. The stones are thought to be part of a Roman archway. On the underside of the arch is the remains of C12th or C13th paintings, an abstract design of red wave lines.

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The chancel is simply furnished with altar rail and wooden table altar. On the wall behind the altar is a small Saxon cross of unknown date, which may be as early as C9th, and may be part of a preaching cross or grave cover.

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On the south wall is a small C13th piscina.

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St John's is a rare survival of a Saxon church. It probably owes its survival to being a small obscure church in a small and isolated village with less than 200 inhabitants.

The opening of a pit in the village and ironworks on the adjacent village of Witton Park in the mid C19th led to a massive increase in population to just under 4000 by 1861. A resident vicar was appointed to the parish, the first in many years and a vicarage built for him. The tiny church of St John was not only in poor condition but was also quite inadequate for the needs of the parish. A new church was built by the vicarage. By the 1880s the church was beginning to fall down and had lost many roof tiles. Local vicars recognised the importance of the old church and led an appeal for subscriptions to repair it.

During the 1880s and 90s there was considerable national interest in the Saxon church, with many articles appearing in antiquarian, architectural and historical journals. Visitors to the church were increasing. In 1898 the PCC voted to make a small charge for visitors to the church of around 6d, the funds to be spent on cleaning and repairs. Occasional services were held.

The historical and architectural value of the church was recognised and it underwent major repair work in 1964 and was officially rededicated for use. The Victorian church was pulled down in 1971 as it was now much too large for the population of the village. and St John’s became the parish church again.

The churchyard and church are kept locked. The keys are hanging on a hook beside the front door of 28 Saxon Court, behind the church. They are available 9-6 in the summer and 9-4 during the winter months. The porch door needs to be pulled towards you when locking and unlocking.

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