Perusing Trenitalia's winter schedules, we find second class seats between Roma Termini and Siracusa for as little as 34.90 Euros, "Super Economy" fare, second class, with an advance purchase of at least six days. The fares to Palermo Centrale are as low as 35.90 Euros. LAST WINTER, ONE COULD FIND FARES AS LOW AS 19.90 EUROS, so inflation has really reared its ugly head! Similar low fares can be found to Taormina and Catania, as well as to the intermediate stops along Sicily's northern coastline to Palermo (e.g. Milazzo and Cefalu'). Trenitalia has two daily direct Intercity trains between Rome and Sicily, the first departing Roma Termini at 7:26 and the second four hours later at 11:26. These trains split at Messina after crossing the Straits of Messina on a special train ferry (see below). I prefer the earlier train which crosses the Straits in full sunlight. The entire trip takes 11 hours to Siracusa and 11.5 hours to Palermo.
While the one-way "base" fare from Rome to Siracusa is 77.50 Euros and 80.50 Euros to Palermo in second class, with some luck you can find a discounted ticket with a 50% or better discount by booking the "Super Economy" fare WELL in advance (non-refundable and non-changeable).
GET THE "TI RIMBORSO" PARTIAL REFUND OPTION
If you are concerned about the need to modify your travel date or cancel the trip, you can opt for the "TiRimborso" refund feature (must be purchased simultaneous with the ticket) which allows you to CANCEL FOR ANY REASON (not modify) your ticket up to 23:59 (Italy time) on the SECOND day prior to your scheduled travel date. You will get a 90% refund of what you paid for your ticket. The "TiRimborso" option is available for all discounted fares, at an additional cost of either 1 or 2 Euros per passenger per train. It is WELL WORTH it to purchase this partial refund option, especially if you book your ticket many weeks or months in advance. The "TiRimborso" option is optional, not mandatory.
Trenitalia offers numerous discounted fares
The most expensive fare is called the "Base" fare, which has the greatest flexibility. It even has a ONE HOUR GRACE PERIOD in case you miss your train (not offered with any of the discounted fares)! You can always modify your travel date or time, more than once prior to train departure. You can also cancel a "Base" fare ticket, prior to train departure, and get an 80% refund of what you paid for the ticket. There are no advance purchase requirements. The less expensive "Economy" fare allows you to modify (once only, with an additional charge), but not cancel, your ticket. The "Super Economy" fare often gives the best discount on Intercity trains. If there are two adults traveling together, there is also the "Me&You" fare to consider. For groups of 3 to 5 persons, also consider the "Insieme" fare. Don't forget that children under age 15 travel at half fare (30% discount in couchettes and sleeping cars). Toddlers under age 4 travel free without a ticket and without a guaranteed seat. The Trenitalia website has a page listing all of the various discount fares offered on its Freccia and Intercity trains (look under "Offers"). Some of these fares are not available for Intercity trains. When you search the online schedules, the reservation system will automatically list all of the available discounted fares for each train.
Description of the Trenitalia Intercity Trains
These direct Intercity trains have one first class and three second class railcars to EACH of Palermo and Siracusa. The train splits in two at Messina (each with its own locomotive), half going west to Palermo, the other half going south to Taormina, Catania and Siracusa (there are other stops en-route). The electronic seat reservation system assigns you a seat in one of the railcars going to your final destination. All seats are reserved. For a small fee, you can select your seat, but remember that the train will change direction of travel after leaving Napoli Centrale and possibly also Messina Centrale. The second class railcars each have around 74 seats, four-across. The first class railcars have only around 52 seats, three-across. Second class seats are 51 cms. wide and have 95 cms. of legroom. First class seats are 63 cms. wide and have 103 cms. of legroom (as described on the Trenitalia website). The seat bottoms pivot out to afford a small recline. A portion of one of the second class railcars has a lounge area with vending machines and tables. One vending machine sells hot espresso, cappuccino, tea and chocolate, made from powdered product. A second sells bottled/canned cold water, soda and juices. A third sells packaged sweet and salty snacks. These machines replace the former wheeled snack cart with uniformed sales person. (You are well advised to bring your own food and beverages with you, although the machines are useful in an emergency or if you want hot coffee or cold tea). There are electrical outlets at each seat, handy to charge electrical devices (sometimes the outlets are broken or defective), plus reading lights and folding tables. Windows have pull-down shades. Luggage can be placed overhead, under the seat, on the floor wedged in-between the seatbacks, put in the oversized luggage racks at one end of the railcar or in dedicated racks within the car itself. The train is air conditioned and heated, but the air conditioning is turned off during the crossing of the Straits of Messina (when it can get very stuffy during the summer).
Crossing the Straits of Messina
The train (minus the locomotive) crosses the Straits of Messina on a train ferry, onto which it is shunted in two sections. Passengers are free to leave their railcar (remember its location!) and climb the steep stairs to the open-air promenade deck, where one can enjoy the crossing, which is exceptionally scenic on a clear day. Don't forget to bring a jacket because it's quite windy! Take lots of photos! The center of the promenade deck is enclosed (quite handy on a windy or rainy day), with many seats, plus restrooms, a few vending machines and a coffee/snack bar.
The Alternative of the Freccia/Intercity Combination Train
What about taking a Freccia train from Rome to Villa San Giovanni and connect to the Intercity train onward to Sicily? IMO, it's not worth the extra cost and the risk of missing the connection. While the Freccia train is a little smoother and quieter than the older Intercity (some people may not even notice), the Intercity is a fine train nonetheless. Indeed, the Frecciarossa 1000 railcars have non-reclining seats in "Standard" class, whereas those of the Intercity train all pivot forward to afford a modest recline! Why pay more for a possibly less comfortable ride? You do save about one hour in travel time with the Freccia, but you'll reach Sicily no sooner (because of the connection) and the Freccia train travels along the identical rail line south of Salerno, so the scenery and the track condition are identical.
The Trenitalia Night train option
Remember too that Trenitalia has night trains (ICN) from Palermo and Siracusa to Milan and Rome (and cities in-between), with simple couchettes (4 bunks in each compartment) and slightly costlier sleeping accommodations (one, two or three beds with private wash basin but no toilet) and some trains additionally have a limited number of more expensive "Superior" (fka "Excelsior") cabins with a private toilet, washbasin and marine shower. All night trains have toilets/washbasins at one end of each railcar. A complimentary very simple continental breakfast is included in the fare (coffee, juice and a sweet or salty packaged snack). The night trains are a bit more expensive than the day trains, but you do save the cost of one hotel night, and are not a bad way to travel IF you are not a light sleeper. However, I consider the Palermo/Naples car ferry with private sleeping cabins to be more comfortable (albeit more expensive).
You will find numerous informative videos of these night trains on You Tube, showing the various sleeping options. Search for them.
THESE DIRECT TRENITALIA TRAINS ALSO CALL AT NAPOLI CENTRALE AND SALERNO (and other stops en-route to Sicily), so they are quite useful for both tourists and locals. Fares from Napoli and Salerno to Sicily are usually a couple of Euros lower than from Rome.
In my opinion, it is worthwhile to take the train between mainland Italy and Sicily at least once in your lifetime, if you cross the Straits of Messina in full daylight OR if you simply want to travel on the cheap. The scenery south of Salerno is lovely in parts, as are the coastlines in Sicily. And on long distances traveling by train is more comfortable than by bus (at least for most).
While the one-way "base" fare from Rome to Siracusa is 77.50 Euros and 80.50 Euros to Palermo in second class, with some luck you can find a discounted ticket with a 50% or better discount by booking the "Super Economy" fare WELL in advance (non-refundable and non-changeable).
GET THE "TI RIMBORSO" PARTIAL REFUND OPTION
If you are concerned about the need to modify your travel date or cancel the trip, you can opt for the "TiRimborso" refund feature (must be purchased simultaneous with the ticket) which allows you to CANCEL FOR ANY REASON (not modify) your ticket up to 23:59 (Italy time) on the SECOND day prior to your scheduled travel date. You will get a 90% refund of what you paid for your ticket. The "TiRimborso" option is available for all discounted fares, at an additional cost of either 1 or 2 Euros per passenger per train. It is WELL WORTH it to purchase this partial refund option, especially if you book your ticket many weeks or months in advance. The "TiRimborso" option is optional, not mandatory.
Trenitalia offers numerous discounted fares
The most expensive fare is called the "Base" fare, which has the greatest flexibility. It even has a ONE HOUR GRACE PERIOD in case you miss your train (not offered with any of the discounted fares)! You can always modify your travel date or time, more than once prior to train departure. You can also cancel a "Base" fare ticket, prior to train departure, and get an 80% refund of what you paid for the ticket. There are no advance purchase requirements. The less expensive "Economy" fare allows you to modify (once only, with an additional charge), but not cancel, your ticket. The "Super Economy" fare often gives the best discount on Intercity trains. If there are two adults traveling together, there is also the "Me&You" fare to consider. For groups of 3 to 5 persons, also consider the "Insieme" fare. Don't forget that children under age 15 travel at half fare (30% discount in couchettes and sleeping cars). Toddlers under age 4 travel free without a ticket and without a guaranteed seat. The Trenitalia website has a page listing all of the various discount fares offered on its Freccia and Intercity trains (look under "Offers"). Some of these fares are not available for Intercity trains. When you search the online schedules, the reservation system will automatically list all of the available discounted fares for each train.
Description of the Trenitalia Intercity Trains
These direct Intercity trains have one first class and three second class railcars to EACH of Palermo and Siracusa. The train splits in two at Messina (each with its own locomotive), half going west to Palermo, the other half going south to Taormina, Catania and Siracusa (there are other stops en-route). The electronic seat reservation system assigns you a seat in one of the railcars going to your final destination. All seats are reserved. For a small fee, you can select your seat, but remember that the train will change direction of travel after leaving Napoli Centrale and possibly also Messina Centrale. The second class railcars each have around 74 seats, four-across. The first class railcars have only around 52 seats, three-across. Second class seats are 51 cms. wide and have 95 cms. of legroom. First class seats are 63 cms. wide and have 103 cms. of legroom (as described on the Trenitalia website). The seat bottoms pivot out to afford a small recline. A portion of one of the second class railcars has a lounge area with vending machines and tables. One vending machine sells hot espresso, cappuccino, tea and chocolate, made from powdered product. A second sells bottled/canned cold water, soda and juices. A third sells packaged sweet and salty snacks. These machines replace the former wheeled snack cart with uniformed sales person. (You are well advised to bring your own food and beverages with you, although the machines are useful in an emergency or if you want hot coffee or cold tea). There are electrical outlets at each seat, handy to charge electrical devices (sometimes the outlets are broken or defective), plus reading lights and folding tables. Windows have pull-down shades. Luggage can be placed overhead, under the seat, on the floor wedged in-between the seatbacks, put in the oversized luggage racks at one end of the railcar or in dedicated racks within the car itself. The train is air conditioned and heated, but the air conditioning is turned off during the crossing of the Straits of Messina (when it can get very stuffy during the summer).
Livelli di servizio - Trenitalia
www.trenitalia.com
Servizi a bordo - Trenitalia
www.trenitalia.com
Crossing the Straits of Messina
The train (minus the locomotive) crosses the Straits of Messina on a train ferry, onto which it is shunted in two sections. Passengers are free to leave their railcar (remember its location!) and climb the steep stairs to the open-air promenade deck, where one can enjoy the crossing, which is exceptionally scenic on a clear day. Don't forget to bring a jacket because it's quite windy! Take lots of photos! The center of the promenade deck is enclosed (quite handy on a windy or rainy day), with many seats, plus restrooms, a few vending machines and a coffee/snack bar.
The Alternative of the Freccia/Intercity Combination Train
What about taking a Freccia train from Rome to Villa San Giovanni and connect to the Intercity train onward to Sicily? IMO, it's not worth the extra cost and the risk of missing the connection. While the Freccia train is a little smoother and quieter than the older Intercity (some people may not even notice), the Intercity is a fine train nonetheless. Indeed, the Frecciarossa 1000 railcars have non-reclining seats in "Standard" class, whereas those of the Intercity train all pivot forward to afford a modest recline! Why pay more for a possibly less comfortable ride? You do save about one hour in travel time with the Freccia, but you'll reach Sicily no sooner (because of the connection) and the Freccia train travels along the identical rail line south of Salerno, so the scenery and the track condition are identical.
The Trenitalia Night train option
Remember too that Trenitalia has night trains (ICN) from Palermo and Siracusa to Milan and Rome (and cities in-between), with simple couchettes (4 bunks in each compartment) and slightly costlier sleeping accommodations (one, two or three beds with private wash basin but no toilet) and some trains additionally have a limited number of more expensive "Superior" (fka "Excelsior") cabins with a private toilet, washbasin and marine shower. All night trains have toilets/washbasins at one end of each railcar. A complimentary very simple continental breakfast is included in the fare (coffee, juice and a sweet or salty packaged snack). The night trains are a bit more expensive than the day trains, but you do save the cost of one hotel night, and are not a bad way to travel IF you are not a light sleeper. However, I consider the Palermo/Naples car ferry with private sleeping cabins to be more comfortable (albeit more expensive).
Livelli di servizio - Trenitalia
www.trenitalia.com
Servizi a bordo - Trenitalia
www.trenitalia.com
You will find numerous informative videos of these night trains on You Tube, showing the various sleeping options. Search for them.
THESE DIRECT TRENITALIA TRAINS ALSO CALL AT NAPOLI CENTRALE AND SALERNO (and other stops en-route to Sicily), so they are quite useful for both tourists and locals. Fares from Napoli and Salerno to Sicily are usually a couple of Euros lower than from Rome.
In my opinion, it is worthwhile to take the train between mainland Italy and Sicily at least once in your lifetime, if you cross the Straits of Messina in full daylight OR if you simply want to travel on the cheap. The scenery south of Salerno is lovely in parts, as are the coastlines in Sicily. And on long distances traveling by train is more comfortable than by bus (at least for most).
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