Venice Venice dining - October 2021

[braindoc]

We were in Venice from October 8 until October 11. Our focus was food this trip - actually, that’s usually our focus. We scheduled aggressively - two main meals for two of the days. Not for everyone, and we did not maintain that pace for the rest of the trip.

Since where to eat is always a question, I thought I’d share. This is not chowhound so I won’t post photos - unless someone really wants to see some foodporn.

We arrived earlier than originally anticipated after switching flights from Swiss to Lufthansa. After dropping our luggage at the hotel in Cannaregio - Maison Venezia - we strolled a bit and made our way to Ai Promessi Sposi for lunch. This has been a standard go-to for us. The wife had spag. vongole and I had a bigoli amatriciana pesce. We shared a fritto misto and a bottle of house white, 67€.

Saturday lunch: Vini da Gigio. Memorable! We were in the front room, next to a table where the owner was sampling dishes with his brother-in-law and 2 buddies. Grilled seppie and calamari to start, linguini with butter and anchovies, spaghetti carbonara di pesce (as I’m typing this my wife mentions that I didn’t share enough of it), then a fish filet we shared. A nice bottle of white and one of the smoothest grappas we ever tasted to finish. 130€

Saturday dinner: Trattoria Antiche Carampane. Finally made it here. The large mixed antipasto, a shared rigatoni mazzancolle, and a shared gran fritto. Splurged on a very good Sauvignon blanc. A dessert for me and a grappa for my wife. We also had some entertainment. Two Americans who came in, sat down, and then announced that they don’t eat pasta or fish. They left. Excellent meal! 147€

Sunday lunch: Osteria Boccadoro. Glad we came. Clams and mussels to start, black tagliolini with scallops and artichokes, a seafood tagliolini, a mixed fritto, bottle of white. 122€

Sunday dinner: Trattoria da Bepi antico 54. Recommended by a local a few years ago and worth a return. Lively and fun owner. Razor clams to start, spaghetti busara, grilled fish, liver Veneziana, artichoke bases, a creme caramel, liter of house white, and 2 grappas. 98€

So five meals and no disappointments. Not easy in Venice.

 

[Sharon J]

We had lunch at Poste Vecie in October. We were the only people there. As long as we ate on their patio, we did not need to wear a mask. However, if we asked to eat inside, we would have to wear a mask, during the meal. We were more than happy to eat on their patio, and it's actually covered, so wasn't a problem at all. Actually we had a wonderful waiter, who told us his dream was to own an American Muscle Car, and drive it across the US. He was a hoot!!!

 

[GailS]

I've eaten at Trattoria da Bepi antico 54 twice I think over a span of 15 years. My recollection was the food was decent but I'm not sure why we didn't make it a regular place. The menu at Osteria Boccadoro looks interesting - may need to try on our next trip. Thanks for posting.

 

[Allen]

Great post, braindoc. A couple of those go on our list to try during our bienalle visit next fall.

 

[Shannon]

Thank you for posting, braindoc. Ai Promessi Sposi is my favorite restaurant in Venice. It is easy to have five good meals when you know where to go!

 

[jan]

Vini da Gigio, along with Estro and Al Covo, are my favorites in Venice. I like Promessi Sposi too but it has yet to rise into the top tier. Is Bepi in that same area of Cannaregio? I think I've walked by it a few times???

 

[GailS]

Yes Jan, Bepi is very close to Promessi Sposi, closer to Santi Apostoli. Their web site has a map.

 

[braindoc]

La Biita is the only non-seafood spot I’m aware of in Venice, but I’ve never eaten there.

None of the restaurants I mentioned have set menus; we ordered what we wanted. Antiche Carampane has fish only; I think the others have some non-seafood items but I really don’t remember details. You should be able to check the menus online.

 

[GailS]

I believe La Bitta is still cash only as well (no credit cards taken). Just something to be aware of if you decide to go there.