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Where to base for a week in the Cotswolds?

artnbarb

1000+ Posts
I've contacted Lucille about narrowboat options, but I think I need to decide on a base in the Cotswolds before choosing a departure point for the narrowboat. So.....how in the world does one even begin to choose? Of course we want to see as many of the cute quaint villages as we can, and we want to see as much of the countryside as we can, but that seems to cover a LOT of territory. My real 'must see' for this vacation is Warwick Castle, but that can be reached by car no matter where we stay. We'll be picking up our rental car in Bath and plan to spend a full week in the Cotswolds.

What criteria should I use when deciding on a location? Country or village is probably one, and I think I'd prefer village - but of course it has to be the right village! Since we'll be driving a lot, and mostly on smaller roads (I assume), how important is location? And this is a loaded question: is one part of the Cotswolds more scenic than the others? Please help me answer the questions I don't even know I should be asking! Thanks in advance!
 
Great question Barb!

The western Cotswolds, in a line from Chipping Campden to Broadway to Winchcombe to Painswick to Minchinhampton is more hilly because it is along the Cotswold Escarpment. Once you get as far east as Stow, it is flatter - gently rolling hills. Like the difference in Italy between Chianti (hilly) and the Val d'Orcia (more open with rolling hills). Both areas are beautiful and full of pretty villages.

Avoid Bourton-upon-the-Water - a major tourist town with attractions for kids and a huge parking lot for tour buses. Maybe also avoid the more southern Cotswolds, south of Tetbury, just because it is so far from the main part of the Cotswolds. And avoid the Cotswold Lakes south of Cirencester (very flat, full of gravel pits that are now lakes - some of it is an upscale holiday home area).

I would probably also avoid the south-east corner, east of Cirencester, near Bibury. You will want to visit Bibury, but this corner of the Cotswolds seems a little more "posh country weekend house" than the rest.

So that leaves you with the north Cotswolds. Burford, Chipping Norton, Stow, Moreton, Chipping Campden, Broadway, Winchcombe. Any of those towns or villages nearby would be good. And the south west Cotswolds - Painswick, Minch, Tetbury. I would recommend the north Cotswolds for a first visit. The main gardens are up there, you can get to Warwick Castle easier.

You have three choices on type of location:

- In a market town, like Chipping Campden, Broadway, Burford, Winchcombe, Stow, Moreton, Painswick, Minchinhampton. These are small towns, population about 5,000 I think? With restaurants, tea rooms and pubs. They are all popular with tourists - so they will be busy.
<< We stayed in Broadway at Broadway Manor Cottages. They are on the outskirts of town, so it is a half mile walk on a footpath into town. These are great cottages and the only downside is that they are not historic. I think they were built in the 70s.
<< We also once stayed in Winchcombe at the Sudley House cottages - great location but the cottages were dreadful (and we were there for a month).

- In a village. These usually don't have a shop or restaurants, but will have a pub.
<< We have stayed in several villages because this is where you find a lot of vacation rentals. We stayed in Blockley (near Chipping Campden), Windrush (near Burford), Fulbrook (near Burford), Naunton (near Stow).

- On a farm or a house in a very rural location. You can walk out on footpaths, but there will be no shops or pubs nearby.
<< Our first long visit to the Cotswolds we stayed in a cottage on an estate a mile from Painswick. It did not feel really rural because we were close to a lot of places.

I think you should look for a market town or a village, because I think you will like being around people and being able to walk to shops etc.

I am happy to look at any links for vacation rentals that you find and tell you if it is a good location. I worked my way through several locations in our years of traveling here, and we enjoyed all of them - except maybe for Windrush. It is one of those villages that are mostly second homes, so it was very quiet. But it has a beautiful church with a Norman door.

Photo of Norman door in Windrush.

windrush-.jpg
 
Thanks for getting me started Pauline! Knowing where not to stay (and why) is just as important as knowing where to stay. Between the Cotswolds and the narrowboats, I was overwhelmed almost to the point of just giving up. The first time to any area is always a learning experience, but with the help of you and the others here I feel much better about making the right choices! I'm heading to the bookstore tomorrow to look for some guidebooks, and maybe even a map (which I'm sure I'll have to order online), but at least now I have some direction. And yes, a market town is what I think I want.
 
OK, this part of our vacation is the key piece! Once we figure out one week or two, we'll be able to set dates for other places too. As you all know, I wanted one week in The Cotswolds then a further 4 days on a narrowboat. Basically I was just trying to do anything I could to extend our time there, but taking the costs into consideration, hence 4 days rather than another full week.

Along the way I fell out of love with the narrowboat idea. And the more I think about it, the more articles you all post, the more suggestions you make all make me fear that one week in the Cotswolds is just not enough. The good news and the bad news are both that if we want more than one week it will have to be TWO full weeks - no one is going to do a 4 day rental during high season. Additionally we'll have to factor in the cost for renting the car for 2 weeks instead of one.

I don't have a good idea of what price range we're looking at for a cottage rental, so I'm going to search around Chipping Camden and see what the costs are. Next I'll price a rental car for both one and two weeks so I can compare. I really, really want to maximize our time in England and the idea of settling in for 2 weeks is sooo appealing. Thanks for helping me thru this process!
 
I like the looks of Twine Cottage (the first one). I'm a little puzzled where it is from the map since it doesn't show a street. Have you written to inquire? Maybe you could ask more about the location... you can tell them you have a friend who spends a lot of time in Chipping Campden. There are some newer houses around that end of Calf Lane, but this house is listed (old). From the reviews people seem to really like the location, convenient to High Street... and I like that it has a garden.

It doesn't have WIFI though. I don't know if that would be important to you. You can take a laptop to some of the pubs and there's a sandwich shop with WIFI (which closes mid afternoon), but that's always a bit of a hassle. It's really nice to be able to use the internet to look things up.

The second cottage is not in Chipping Campden... notice the stone? It's not the Cotswolds stone. In the body of the text it clarifies that it's in Mickleton, which is below the escarpement, 10 minutes further north from CC... sort of on the edge of the Cotswolds. You'd be down the hill from Hidcote and Kiftsgate. This is a very quiet village, two pubs, a village shop, butcher shop, and a nice hotel with a very good restaurant that hosts the famous Pudding Club. (We eat there with our groups.) You'd be on the road to Stratford (could go by bus, 20 minutes) and on the way to Warwick Castle. It does look nice, not as old.

Some friends of ours recently stayed in this cottage, at the residential end of High Street in Chipping Campden, and I had a chance to look inside... very nice and our friends really enjoyed their week. (Teaberry stayed here too... here's her review: http://www.slowtrav.com/uk/vr/review.asp?n=5424) It's not clea from the listing, but I think it has WIFI.

Kathy
 
Bummer about the wifi - I almost take that for granted, but I shouldn't! And yes, I knew the 2nd cottage wasn't in Chipping Camden, and I really didn't mind the tiny village, but wondered about the location in general. I need to order a good map of the area. Any recommendations?

I do like Kettle cottage - I'll add it to my list!
 
Here is an option to have two weeks in a cottage but one week car rental.

Stay in London.
Train to Moreton in Marsh.
Bus to Chipping Campden.
Stay in a cottage there for a week with no car. You can take a bus to Broadway (it runs 3 times a day) and some other places. Buses cost 2 to 3 GBP per ride, passes are available. They are not frequent and don't go everywhere. Check bus info online (I have the link on Cotswolder). We use taxis sometimes - 10 to 20 GBP per ride.
Pick up car in Evesham? Kathy has done this.
Drop off car in Bath.
Stay in Bath.
Train to Reading, airport bus to Heathrow (or train to Gatwick).

You would have to work it out to see if it would be worth it for the savings, but it might be fun to get used to the roads on the bus.
 
The additional week's car rental isn't problem, it's the cost of the rental itself. We've gone over our budget, Art estimating low and me estimating high, as usual, and we've decided we can do a good 4 weeks - probably 2 in Italy, then 5 days London, 11 nights to be determined - I was hoping for 2 in Bath and 9 in a rental, but given the time of year the extra nights in a cottage will be difficult to find - or difficult to afford.

I would eliminate Bath altogether and just take a train from London to the nearest/best location to pick up a rental car......I'd even shave a day or 2 off Italy, but would probably regret it.....and Art wouldn't like that idea at all!

Your post made me realize I need to think more outside my comfort zone, but I'm not sure how happy we'd be relying solely on public transport. We'd definitely need to stay in a town with good links I wonder if we could stay in a B&B for 3-5 nights, then move to a cottage for a full week? If we did that I'd go for 2 locations, and would probably still want a car........anyway, thanks for giving me more food for thought!
 
I thought I outlined our proposed itinerary - which is still evolving - 2 weeks Italy, fly to London for 5 nights, then train to Bath for 2 nights, pick up a rental car and drive to Cotswolds for one full week, then car dropped off somewhere logical, train to our last night hotel, then fly home. I've been to Bath once, but Art's never been and we would like to include it...but now I'm thinking maybe at the very end?

If we spent a few days at a B&B in Chipping Campden, then where would you recommend we spend our week in a cottage? And if we were in Chipping Camden without a car, where and how would we get the car? Again, I have too many questions and too many variables! We could also head straight to the Cotswolds when we fly from Italy, and save London for the end......
 
I was thinking 2 nights in Bath was very short of it was your first time there.
Honestly, I know very little about Bath, other than for me it was a very nice day trip, and Art would like to see it. Do you think 2 nights is not enough? We could always return the car to Bath, then spend our last night there, depending on what time our flight was.......
 

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