Apartment advice

[Heidi]

I couldn't agree more ~ meandering the neighborhoods and enjoying the caffe' scene, top my list now, after years of seeing the "must sees". Still love the *oldies but goodies* but only in the early mornings, as Roma is waking up. I think I'm done with Vatican Museum but not San Pietro (*heavenly* at 7am!) and tours of the Colosseum, as the lines are horrid...

 

[chachalaca]

I am ready to meander and be done with planning!

Laura
who is studiously taking notes, maping out my morning "stops" (I, too, love to watch life happen from a café (hmm my computer just changed it from caffé!), and making sure I have everyone's hot tips written in bold!

 

[Heidi]

I, too, love to watch life happen from a caffe'

A woman after my own heart! I will send along a couple of more caffe' stops later - today is a computer buying day

 

[ItalophileNJ]

Coming back here after a few months. Laura, that apartment looks great! Enjoy.

And as for the tour to Pompeii ----- I walked through it on my own, or tried to, a few years ago. And this was after spending hours doing a wonderful online course on Roman Architecture through Yale University. I wanted to take a Context daytrip from Naples, but they didn't have enough people. I figured I could do it on my own. Well, I really wish I had had a guide with me to tell me where to turn, as the ruins are huge and confusing.

I think Viator is a consolidating that contracts with various local tour companies. Maybe someone at Viator can tell you who they use for Pompeii. Whatever it is, enjoy! (And we know you will have the right handbag....)

 

[chachalaca]

Thank you, Italophile!

 

[chachalaca]

Dear Heidi,

As our trip nears, and I compile all the thoughtful advice you have shared, I just want to say thank you. You really spent a lot of time and I appreciate that. I have just made reservations at Armando for our first night in Rome.

I am saving a document with all of your suggestions on my ipad, but I'm also going to use a paper copy for walking/eating tours!!

I hope your trip to Paris was great.

Again, thank you so much!
Laura

 

[Heidi]

Ciao Laura!

Thank you for the kind words

Your departure is nearing - how fun! Your nephew must be excited...When do you leave?

I walked along "your" street this morning on my way to coffee. It really is a great little back street - a street less traveled but close to the main, clogged pedestrian routes. The little Piazza Rondanni, cut into your Via Cornacchie would benefit from a *no parking designation*, but as with most 'free spaces' there are always a gazillion motorcycles/motor scooters and cars, large & small, parked haphazardly. Heavy sigh....it is part of the chaos that is Roma

Do you mind a few more notes about your wonderful apartment location? I was thinking about how I walk through this area often for morning cappuccino in my favorite piazza. Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina is an oasis in Roma! It is almost truly car free - except for the delivery trucks & garbage trucks in the morning... Oh, and the little street sweepers that ply the narrow "centro storico" streets each day - never quite getting those ugly, ubiquitous cigarette butts out from the deep spaces between the cobblestones....

There are three caffe's in Lucina. Years ago, I chose to sit at Vitti because I like the location best & it's still my first choice. Here you can sit as long as you wish watching posh locals greet friends, walk their dogs and watch their children race around after pigeons. It's an expensive cappuccino - though you can pay more as I did the other day at Rosati - Piazza del Popolo -which also added a shocking 17% cover!

To get to Piazza San Lornzo in Lucina, you walk along Via Maddalena - very close to you - jog slightly to the right then continue left/straight along Via di Campo Marzio. Just before it opens onto the back side of Parlamento, is a bank I like to use for ATM withdrawals. I only go when the bank is open, just in case my cards gets eaten but I like the small private, off the street cubicle, where my transaction can take place in a private, secure setting. There are several of these ATM machines in the city. I would always seek these out for your transactions.

So there you have it - more murmurings from this Romephile.... Next, I may launch into my *Caravaggio Crawl*
Some of the best are so close to your apartment and they are "in situ", as they should be.... Do you like him? Perhaps you have already researched his work?

Buon viaggio Carol!

 

[Heidi]

Ciao Laura! Yes, I know your name is Laura, so why did I say "Carol" at the end? Who knows except I had been communicating with Carole about our GTG in Roma on Sunday... Sorry...

Buon viaggio Laura!!!

 

[chachalaca]

Oh, call me whatever you like! You've been so generous with your time and tips I'll reply by any name. Will you still be in Rome when we arrive in 2 weeks? Hopefully?

 

[Heidi]

Ciao Laura!

That would be fun if we had an overlapping day or two but I depart Roma on Thursday - in a few days!!! I'm still in denial about this. You would think a month would be enough time. For some folks, a few days is just fine, thank you! but for me - a lifetime is not enough!

I must warn you about the HEATWAVE we have been having. August temperatures in May/June. I've been melting! And now in the afternoons, the thunderstorms come in with great displays of light and sound...and some rain. Silly me, I thought it might give us a break and lower the temperatures but all it does is raise the humidity. Perhaps by the time you arrive, the pattern will change. Just in case, you might want to throw a small travel umbrella in the suitcases. I always do anyway...

I hope you have a fantastic time on your very special trip with your nephew! I'd love to hear about your adventures when you return. Say hello to the Armando waiters from Heidi. I will have been there for my last dinner on Wednesday evening. I'm having my last Roscioli dinner tonight and my last Emma lunch tomorrow with Wedy & Rob...and my last cappuccino.................

Enjoy!

 

[chachalaca]

Heatwave noted! And thank you for that...I'll be sure to follow up with a post-trip post; and a review or two!
At the moment our reservations at Armando is for the night we arrive - good idea or should we wait until we're better rested?

Enjoy your last everythings!!

 

[GailS]

I was in Rome a week ago for a week - it had been a few years since we had visited. Luckily we were able to eat at Armando al Pantheon twice, Roscioli once (both recommendations from friends of ours who spend a month or so in Rome each year) as well as Emma twice - a great find we were really impressed with. I miss the restaurant recommendations that Slow Travel has/had(seem to be mostly old). I keep a mapped list (here.com maps unfortunately not Google due to my Windows phone which I love except for the lack of Google maps) of restaurants and bars that others have recommended so we can more easily find something near where we are, especially at lunch when we tend to plan less.

Maybe having a Google map of favorites that could be shared here would be a good idea?

 

[Pauline]

Maybe having a Google map of favorites that could be shared here would be a good idea?

Great idea! You could create a Google Map and then start a new thread and embed the map in the thread. It would be nice to keep a list of Rome restaurants. PM me if you want to do this and need any help.

 

[Heidi]

Ciao Laura and GailS...

Laura, if you have reservations at Armando, I would recommend you keep them. It will be difficult to change them at this point. You'll be exhausted but it's a pretty low key, intimate family restaurant, with down home cooking which I still think you can appreciate and enjoy through your jet lag haze. You'll see that they spend a good part of the evening turning hopeful diners away - as does Roscioli, which I also highly recommend. The great thing about Roscioli is that the restaurant is also a salumeria, formaggeria & vineria - think yummy deli items to go, if you aren't doing dinner there.

I'm sitting in my apartment right now consuming burrata (fresh mozzarella and cream make up this fresh cheese with outer mozzarella skin and soft, smooth, almost wet, inside) semi- dried, herbed tomatoes from the deli/restaurant and focaccia bianca from the Roscioli forno, which a few doors away from the restaurant . The forno also has prepared dishes.

I'm in a gourmet ghetto right here on via di chiavari! With carapina gelato, the two Roscioli's and Emma, right around the corner... I'm spoiled! The good news for you Laura, is that all of these are so close to your apartment too!

I agree with GailS, Emma is a great find. Katie Parla ~ www.parlafood.com ~ has reviewed these foodie finds and more on her website. That's how I heard about Emma, which is not just a pizza "joint" - great atmosphere and quality dishes. Say hello to Giovanni and Alissia for me. The only reason they remember my name is the silly movie adaptation of the classic book Heidi. I thought they were making fun of me when they would do a little sing song "Heidi Heidi" but it was explained to me it's from the movie. It's difficult to maintain that aura of the sophisticated world traveler when they sing that little ditty

GailS, we must have been passing by one another several times...

One final note Laura. I had to share this about the crazy relationship, shall I say, between drivers and pedestrians. You'll find you spend a lot of time on small back streets hugging the building walls and checking your back for traffic. It truly is a challenge. But today, three cute American girls came running across Corso Emanuele, they had a green light to walk in the zebra crossing, but they ran, half squealing/ half laughing and I heard one of them yell out "Why do they give you the green light and then they try to kill you?" Why indeed! You'll soon see what she meant.........

 

[chachalaca]

I'm getting hungry! Oh, and terrified!

 

[Heidi]

Happy travels!

 

[GailS]

I'll look into creating a map when I get back home. I've done the same for myself in Venice as well since I had some very disappointing meals their on early trips. I really dislike wasting a meal somewhere that is sub par.

 

[chachalaca]

We're here!! And enjoying everything, of course.

Heidi, your detailed notes have been our itinerary these first three days:

Armando Oh, delicious!
Roscoli Maybe more enjoyable because we were better rested, sigh, delish
Carapina Mmmmmmm...is it ok to have two gelati in one day? I haven't...yet!
Cat sanctuary . Oh, and the Largo di Torre A. cool, too
Despar & friend outside Labyrinthine treasure trove!
Food app Great!!!
Bernini Elephant wow! gorgeous

It is so nice to have these wonderful recommendations. There is so many "unknowns" that a friendly recommendation is worth it's weight in gold.

It is warm, 85ish, and crowded. We stay sane by rising early, walking hard and long, laying low in the midday and resuming our adventures you early evening.

The only thing that would make this better would be a foot and leg massage before bed each night...with a glass of prosecco!

Laura

 

[Ann]

Laura, it's great to hear from you -- have a wonderful time!

 

[chachalaca]

Palma!!! If you're out there...
Thank you for the recommendations for l'Ourso 80 and Obica!! Delicious both! I loved the mozzarella bar, what a great way to taste the cheeses side by side along with chosen accompaniments!

Pauline, and everyone who helped with non alcoholic beverage choices-thank you! We' ex all tried the Crodino, we like it, and there are many options everywhere. However, when he asked what time we were going out for an aperativo last night i knew he wasn't looking for the Crodino!! He is loving tasting wine with his meals, the aperativo culture and everything else! My sister's going to kill me when he disses her wine choices and doesn't serve dinner in courses!!

Thank you sloweurope family!!
Laura