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Israel Israel, November 2018
- Thread starter Pauline
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Pauline
Forums Admin
Sunny and not too hot today. Perfect for hiking. We started out late (for the desert) at 10:00am at Wadi David. We managed to beat the big tour buses, which arrived later in the day, but there were still a lot of people. Nothing like last year when the trails were packed with school kids.
We walked up to the first waterfall to find a group of African Christians singing and dancing in the pool. It was lovely to see. I took a video which I can't upload, but will upload later. Ein Gedi is mentioned in the Old Testament several times. Christians must be thrilled to be in this place - this group was. I feel the magic of the place too.
We continued up the trail to the main waterfall, David's Waterfall. This part of the trail is a bit tricky, going into the water at times, climbing up rock, going through a tunnel of rushes, but it is not really difficult and there are hand railings. People were walking wearing flipflops.
We were in full hiking gear because from the end of the hike we were going to climb up the hill side to Ein Gedi Spring where there are prehistoric ruins, a spring and a treed area. We were still on the lookout for Ibex. We walked about 20 minutes up the trail and it got very steep with a sharp drop off. I could physically do this hike but mentally I couldn't. The narrow path and steep dropoff are too much for me. Steve walked further on, around a corner, and said it continued the same, so we turned back. There is another way to get up there which is on a steep but good path. We will try that the next time. It is only an hour return to get to David's Waterfall, but another two hours if you go up to the spring.
As we were leaving buses of school kids were arriving. One group of boys first greeted us in Japanese (they were Israeli), then wanted to "high five". I got to high five about a dozen kids.
That freed up some time, so we drove over to Wadi Arugot (only 5 mins away), looking for Ibex. It was noon, just an hour before we saw that herd yesterday. Nothing. We would not see them in Wadi David because there were too many people.
At Wadi Arugot we saw four tour buses parked. The guy at the booth said we would not see Ibex because of all the school children ahead of us. We walked in for an hour in peace and quiet before we heard the cacophany of the children. They were heading towards us on the trail. We stepped aside for about 15 minutes and the four busloads passed. Only one of the boys wanted a high five in this group.
We walked to the Hidden Waterfall, about an hour and 15mins, but could have gone further if it were not so late in the afternoon. The sign says you can't start the trail to the upper pools after 1pm. Hidden Waterfall was pretty except for the guy wearing a "Bros before Hoes" t-shirt and using a drone to take photos. How can anyone wear something like that these days? I don't know if he was American or Israeli or what. There were a few people in the pool here. The waterfall comes down at a fast speed.
We walked back looking for Ibex. None. We drove around the area slowly looking for Ibex. None. We went back to the hotel with the plan of going out at 4:30 as it is getting dark because I've heard the Ibex come out then. Around 4:30 I walked out to the car because I had left our passports in my backpack (we didn't have to show our passports to hike today, as we did have to the last two hikes from Jerusalem (going through checkpoints)). On the way back to our room I was 20 feet from a male Ibex with huge horns. He had climbed up the canyon wall and hopped up on the wall surrounding the Kibbutz. I had a good look and then hot footed it up to the room to get Steve. We looked from the balcony right at him. Steve was thrilled (even more than me I think). A few others on their balconies noticed him. He was out there for about 10 minutes walking along the wall. He was about the size of a large dog, but really looked like a goat.
Then he jumped down, went down the hill a bit and lay down. We went out and looked down and there were two other big males sitting on the rocky canyon wall. Wonderful!!
After watching them for quite a while, we went back to the room then went to the spa. We soaked in the Dead Sea water, then went into the steam room. We are really getting into this! Too bad we leave tomorrow.
We walked up to the first waterfall to find a group of African Christians singing and dancing in the pool. It was lovely to see. I took a video which I can't upload, but will upload later. Ein Gedi is mentioned in the Old Testament several times. Christians must be thrilled to be in this place - this group was. I feel the magic of the place too.
We continued up the trail to the main waterfall, David's Waterfall. This part of the trail is a bit tricky, going into the water at times, climbing up rock, going through a tunnel of rushes, but it is not really difficult and there are hand railings. People were walking wearing flipflops.
We were in full hiking gear because from the end of the hike we were going to climb up the hill side to Ein Gedi Spring where there are prehistoric ruins, a spring and a treed area. We were still on the lookout for Ibex. We walked about 20 minutes up the trail and it got very steep with a sharp drop off. I could physically do this hike but mentally I couldn't. The narrow path and steep dropoff are too much for me. Steve walked further on, around a corner, and said it continued the same, so we turned back. There is another way to get up there which is on a steep but good path. We will try that the next time. It is only an hour return to get to David's Waterfall, but another two hours if you go up to the spring.
As we were leaving buses of school kids were arriving. One group of boys first greeted us in Japanese (they were Israeli), then wanted to "high five". I got to high five about a dozen kids.
That freed up some time, so we drove over to Wadi Arugot (only 5 mins away), looking for Ibex. It was noon, just an hour before we saw that herd yesterday. Nothing. We would not see them in Wadi David because there were too many people.
At Wadi Arugot we saw four tour buses parked. The guy at the booth said we would not see Ibex because of all the school children ahead of us. We walked in for an hour in peace and quiet before we heard the cacophany of the children. They were heading towards us on the trail. We stepped aside for about 15 minutes and the four busloads passed. Only one of the boys wanted a high five in this group.
We walked to the Hidden Waterfall, about an hour and 15mins, but could have gone further if it were not so late in the afternoon. The sign says you can't start the trail to the upper pools after 1pm. Hidden Waterfall was pretty except for the guy wearing a "Bros before Hoes" t-shirt and using a drone to take photos. How can anyone wear something like that these days? I don't know if he was American or Israeli or what. There were a few people in the pool here. The waterfall comes down at a fast speed.
We walked back looking for Ibex. None. We drove around the area slowly looking for Ibex. None. We went back to the hotel with the plan of going out at 4:30 as it is getting dark because I've heard the Ibex come out then. Around 4:30 I walked out to the car because I had left our passports in my backpack (we didn't have to show our passports to hike today, as we did have to the last two hikes from Jerusalem (going through checkpoints)). On the way back to our room I was 20 feet from a male Ibex with huge horns. He had climbed up the canyon wall and hopped up on the wall surrounding the Kibbutz. I had a good look and then hot footed it up to the room to get Steve. We looked from the balcony right at him. Steve was thrilled (even more than me I think). A few others on their balconies noticed him. He was out there for about 10 minutes walking along the wall. He was about the size of a large dog, but really looked like a goat.
Then he jumped down, went down the hill a bit and lay down. We went out and looked down and there were two other big males sitting on the rocky canyon wall. Wonderful!!
After watching them for quite a while, we went back to the room then went to the spa. We soaked in the Dead Sea water, then went into the steam room. We are really getting into this! Too bad we leave tomorrow.
Pauline
Forums Admin
We got up early-ish and were at Wadi David just after they opened at 8am. We did not see any Ibex in the area, but went into the park and did the short walk out and back to the first waterfall. As we were coming back we saw three Ibex on the cliff across from the entrance - two females, one young one.
This cliff is below the Ein Gedi Field School so we drove up there. On the road up about 10 young Ibex were coming down a cliff to the road. We watched them from the car.
We drove up to the entrance to the Field School and parked (we could not go in by car, there was a barrier). Then we walked into the area and found a group of Ibex in the garden and lawn area in front of the school. Mostly young ones and females, but two males, one older one with long horns (but not as exceptional as the male by our hotel yesterday).
We got to spend a long time watching them and some of them passed only a few feet from us. This was Ibex heaven for us - three good sitings in the three days we were at Ein Gedi.
Back to the hotel just before the breakfast period ends at 10am (they have a very good breakfast), then we checked out and were on the road just after 11. We stopped at Ein Bokek, a modern resort with several high rise hotels, on the part of the Dead Sea that is more controlled, so the water comes right up to the beach. In the area near Ein Gedi the water has been retreating and now is difficult to get to because sink holes have formed where the water used to be. At the Ein Gedi Spa on the Sea you take a shuttle from the building to the edge of the sea (we did not do this but should next time). We walked on the boardwalk for a bit watching the mostly Russian tourists bathing in the sea. We even went into the mall, which was just like any American mall with chain stores.
We headed south on Highway 90. Steve drove the speed limit and cars passed us frequently. Even a tractor hauling two levels of cows passed us! People drive fast here. The scenery is like southern Arizona minus those fabulous cactus. Stone mountains on the west side, flat land and then the Jordan mountains to the east. Every now and then a modern village (farming moshavs) with a road to the residential area and that surrounded by fields of green houses. A lot is grown in this area, all under cover except for the date trees. This is the Arava Valley.
I had booked a cottage in Paran, the last moshav in the Arava Valley. We turned in and went through an open barrier gate (it closes at night). I had been in touch with Anat who we were renting from for the last few days and she phoned and guided us to her house. In a moshav each family owns their house and has fields outside the village. Anat's farm grows peppers (as do many here). Her house is at the back of the property (a large, nice looking house). In front of it is the cottage we rented. In front of us is a huge barn which used to be her sorting barn - for sorting the peppers before shipping. In front of that, along the road, are what look like housing for farm workers. All the places along the road are set up like that except most are doing sorting. I can hear machinery going in the farm next to us.
We walked around town tonight, just before dark, and tractors were coming in from the fields pulling flatbeds with workers on them. Anat said the farm workers are mostly from Thailand (and the two shops in the village sell Thai food products for them). Many of them were wearing scarves over their faces and large hats. Anat said they do not want to get sunburned or even tanned so they cover most of their skin.
In the evenings the sorting is done and then the produce is loaded on trucks and taken to distribution centers where it is shipped to Europe. Those peppers from Israel that we buy in Waitrose in Bridport come from here.
Anat left a bowl of peppers for us and I used one in tonight's dinner. Very fresh - the best pepper I've ever had. They also grow dates here and she left some for us.
The cottage is small (1bed/1bath) but is beautifully furnished and comfortable. There are lovely touches like containers of tea and coffee, a Nespresso machine, a kettle and toaster. It has a very nice front porch and private garden area. We sat out there this afternoon after we arrive. It is expensive - $150/night - and I think her clients are people coming from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem for a few nights. We are here for three nights.
She went over all the local information with us. There are two shops in the village. Two good hikes nearby. Another town that is not far, Tsofar, with restaurants and a deli. Another town further north with organic vegetables on Thursday.
The internet is not working well, neither is data on my phone, but really it feels like we are in the middle of nowhere! But, the desert - so beautiful. We watched the sun setting behind the mountains.
Our one disappointment. On Tuesdays a Falafel Truck visits the town. We walked out for falafel only to be told it wasn't coming tonight. When we got home Anet texted that she just heard it wasn't coming. Instead I cooked a very good dinner of white rice with fresh parsley (from her garden) and a vegetable dish featuring those peppers.
This cliff is below the Ein Gedi Field School so we drove up there. On the road up about 10 young Ibex were coming down a cliff to the road. We watched them from the car.
We drove up to the entrance to the Field School and parked (we could not go in by car, there was a barrier). Then we walked into the area and found a group of Ibex in the garden and lawn area in front of the school. Mostly young ones and females, but two males, one older one with long horns (but not as exceptional as the male by our hotel yesterday).
We got to spend a long time watching them and some of them passed only a few feet from us. This was Ibex heaven for us - three good sitings in the three days we were at Ein Gedi.
Back to the hotel just before the breakfast period ends at 10am (they have a very good breakfast), then we checked out and were on the road just after 11. We stopped at Ein Bokek, a modern resort with several high rise hotels, on the part of the Dead Sea that is more controlled, so the water comes right up to the beach. In the area near Ein Gedi the water has been retreating and now is difficult to get to because sink holes have formed where the water used to be. At the Ein Gedi Spa on the Sea you take a shuttle from the building to the edge of the sea (we did not do this but should next time). We walked on the boardwalk for a bit watching the mostly Russian tourists bathing in the sea. We even went into the mall, which was just like any American mall with chain stores.
We headed south on Highway 90. Steve drove the speed limit and cars passed us frequently. Even a tractor hauling two levels of cows passed us! People drive fast here. The scenery is like southern Arizona minus those fabulous cactus. Stone mountains on the west side, flat land and then the Jordan mountains to the east. Every now and then a modern village (farming moshavs) with a road to the residential area and that surrounded by fields of green houses. A lot is grown in this area, all under cover except for the date trees. This is the Arava Valley.
I had booked a cottage in Paran, the last moshav in the Arava Valley. We turned in and went through an open barrier gate (it closes at night). I had been in touch with Anat who we were renting from for the last few days and she phoned and guided us to her house. In a moshav each family owns their house and has fields outside the village. Anat's farm grows peppers (as do many here). Her house is at the back of the property (a large, nice looking house). In front of it is the cottage we rented. In front of us is a huge barn which used to be her sorting barn - for sorting the peppers before shipping. In front of that, along the road, are what look like housing for farm workers. All the places along the road are set up like that except most are doing sorting. I can hear machinery going in the farm next to us.
We walked around town tonight, just before dark, and tractors were coming in from the fields pulling flatbeds with workers on them. Anat said the farm workers are mostly from Thailand (and the two shops in the village sell Thai food products for them). Many of them were wearing scarves over their faces and large hats. Anat said they do not want to get sunburned or even tanned so they cover most of their skin.
In the evenings the sorting is done and then the produce is loaded on trucks and taken to distribution centers where it is shipped to Europe. Those peppers from Israel that we buy in Waitrose in Bridport come from here.
Anat left a bowl of peppers for us and I used one in tonight's dinner. Very fresh - the best pepper I've ever had. They also grow dates here and she left some for us.
The cottage is small (1bed/1bath) but is beautifully furnished and comfortable. There are lovely touches like containers of tea and coffee, a Nespresso machine, a kettle and toaster. It has a very nice front porch and private garden area. We sat out there this afternoon after we arrive. It is expensive - $150/night - and I think her clients are people coming from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem for a few nights. We are here for three nights.
She went over all the local information with us. There are two shops in the village. Two good hikes nearby. Another town that is not far, Tsofar, with restaurants and a deli. Another town further north with organic vegetables on Thursday.
The internet is not working well, neither is data on my phone, but really it feels like we are in the middle of nowhere! But, the desert - so beautiful. We watched the sun setting behind the mountains.
Our one disappointment. On Tuesdays a Falafel Truck visits the town. We walked out for falafel only to be told it wasn't coming tonight. When we got home Anet texted that she just heard it wasn't coming. Instead I cooked a very good dinner of white rice with fresh parsley (from her garden) and a vegetable dish featuring those peppers.
Pauline
Forums Admin
We got an early start today, drove a few miles north of Paran, then took a dirt road to the Wadi Barak hike. You can drive in quite far but the road is rough. We stopped after a few miles and parked. From there we walked in. We were following a car/jeep track in wide open desert with mountains far off on one side and ahead of us. I could see the canyon we were hiking too and it was far away. After an hour we came to an obvious parking area, but the road was pretty rough. No cars there but another 1/2 mile on we came to two parked cars. One a truck but the other a regular car, with a brave driver!
Before we reached the Wadi we saw a herd of Gazelles! They were not that close to us but we could see them clearly. Beautiful creatures, more like a deer than the Ibex which are really goats. We saw some running where they leap and tuck their legs under their body.
It took us two hours to reach the Wadi (canyon). The closer we got, the more trees there were. The first part of the hike was barren desert.
We met a hiker who was coming out, the first person we had seen on the hike. He said we were only 5 minutes away but that flash floods were forecast for the afternoon. He said the water can appear without warning. It does not need to rain here. It rains on the other side of the mountains and is fine weather here but the water floods through. It was noon by now. I asked him if we should proceed because of the possible flooding and he said yes because we were so close but if the water comes we should grab onto a tree or scramble up the canyon side. He said "go ahead but you're doomed" and laughed. We all laughed. We probably are doomed. It seemed funny at the time.
We walked into the Wadi and it got very narrow. It was a lot like something we would see hiking in New Mexico (where we used to live) or Arizona or Utah. We had to climb up some big boulders (which I now really dislike doing) and turned back when we came to the first pool. I was not about to swim in this narrow canyon with the thought of flash floods! We used to have flash floods in New Mexico and they are dangerous. A group of teenagers were killed in one recently in this area.
If we had kept going we would have had to climb more boulders and would have come to a larger pool. From there to leave the canyon you swim through the pool then climb a ladder up the steep rock. We would never have made it that far. We have a hiking book, in Hebrew, in the cottage we rented that describes the hike with lots of photos.
We turned around and hoofed it back to more open area. Now that I was thinking about floods I could see many damp spots from the rain and flooding a few days ago.
We were walking along, being quiet and looking for animals like we always do here, and we spotted two young Ibex. Then we spotted more, then three males with huge horns. We were very close to them. The oldest male with the biggest horns was standing on his hind legs getting leaves from the trees. We watched them for a long time but then had to leave (we couldn't stay there all day - possible flash flooding!). What a great trip it has been for Ibex!
We had our sandwiches under a tree. There are a lot of flies about. If you keep still, for example when eating a sandwich, they really go for you. In the last few days I've had one fly into my ear and one into my mouth.
We got back to the car at 2:30 making this a 9+ mile hike taking 4+ hours. For the first time in several days we were able to get a good pace going because the trail was flat and easy-ish to walk.
Back home to recover. Shower felt fantastic after a dusty dry hike. No more hikes for a few days.
I am having trouble uploading photos. The internet is not working in the cottage so we are using our phones, but everything has slowed down tonight. Here are a few photos I uploaded earlier, including a photo of Ein Bokek on the Dead Sea from yesterday.
Before we reached the Wadi we saw a herd of Gazelles! They were not that close to us but we could see them clearly. Beautiful creatures, more like a deer than the Ibex which are really goats. We saw some running where they leap and tuck their legs under their body.
It took us two hours to reach the Wadi (canyon). The closer we got, the more trees there were. The first part of the hike was barren desert.
We met a hiker who was coming out, the first person we had seen on the hike. He said we were only 5 minutes away but that flash floods were forecast for the afternoon. He said the water can appear without warning. It does not need to rain here. It rains on the other side of the mountains and is fine weather here but the water floods through. It was noon by now. I asked him if we should proceed because of the possible flooding and he said yes because we were so close but if the water comes we should grab onto a tree or scramble up the canyon side. He said "go ahead but you're doomed" and laughed. We all laughed. We probably are doomed. It seemed funny at the time.
We walked into the Wadi and it got very narrow. It was a lot like something we would see hiking in New Mexico (where we used to live) or Arizona or Utah. We had to climb up some big boulders (which I now really dislike doing) and turned back when we came to the first pool. I was not about to swim in this narrow canyon with the thought of flash floods! We used to have flash floods in New Mexico and they are dangerous. A group of teenagers were killed in one recently in this area.
If we had kept going we would have had to climb more boulders and would have come to a larger pool. From there to leave the canyon you swim through the pool then climb a ladder up the steep rock. We would never have made it that far. We have a hiking book, in Hebrew, in the cottage we rented that describes the hike with lots of photos.
We turned around and hoofed it back to more open area. Now that I was thinking about floods I could see many damp spots from the rain and flooding a few days ago.
We were walking along, being quiet and looking for animals like we always do here, and we spotted two young Ibex. Then we spotted more, then three males with huge horns. We were very close to them. The oldest male with the biggest horns was standing on his hind legs getting leaves from the trees. We watched them for a long time but then had to leave (we couldn't stay there all day - possible flash flooding!). What a great trip it has been for Ibex!
We had our sandwiches under a tree. There are a lot of flies about. If you keep still, for example when eating a sandwich, they really go for you. In the last few days I've had one fly into my ear and one into my mouth.
We got back to the car at 2:30 making this a 9+ mile hike taking 4+ hours. For the first time in several days we were able to get a good pace going because the trail was flat and easy-ish to walk.
Back home to recover. Shower felt fantastic after a dusty dry hike. No more hikes for a few days.
I am having trouble uploading photos. The internet is not working in the cottage so we are using our phones, but everything has slowed down tonight. Here are a few photos I uploaded earlier, including a photo of Ein Bokek on the Dead Sea from yesterday.
ItalophileNJ
100+ Posts
Fantastic! I keep on reading your report and thinking “Song of Songs”, what with Ein Gedi, the gazelles, the ibex....
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Pauline
Forums Admin
A few photos of our cottage in Paran. This is an interesting location. We are in the village, a moshav of farmers. Their green houses are outside the village. On our street there is the house, a big barn where sorting goes on at night and some workers cottages. Our cottage is beside the house and our barn is not being used for sorting, but the ones on either side of us are so we can hear the trucks and workers in the evening. In the morning and during the day it is quiet, with no one here. In late afternoon the workers arrive back from the fields.
Wendy Ashworth
100+ Posts
Love reading all this.
I have a horrid cold so I've been diverted by your intrepid travels and the photos are splendid.
Ibex are beautiful and those peppers are award winning !
Shame though that you are missing the government falling apart here in the UK
!
I have a horrid cold so I've been diverted by your intrepid travels and the photos are splendid.
Ibex are beautiful and those peppers are award winning !
Shame though that you are missing the government falling apart here in the UK
!Shame though that you are missing the government falling apart here in the UK
Not to worry - Pauline can watch the gov't crumbling here in Israel as well!
Early elections on the horizon...
Pauline
Forums Admin
We were up early today which is unusual for us, but we were in bed early last night because that hike and sunshine tired us out. I am sleeping well here. In Jerusalem I slept well but woke early with the traffic noise. Here we wake up to the sounds of farm equipment but I don't find it annoying. There are a few roosters too.
We took out the bikes provided here and spent an hour riding around the town. It is small but spread out. There is a second grocery store but we did not find it. There are two bike/people paths across the town and it is a nice way to look at the houses. Along the bike path there is green grass and trees. Along the roads it is a bit scruffy. Bare dirt, a few old dead cars, piles of building supplies. Not pristine like many towns in England. Even in Jerusalem in the German Colony (an expensive neighborhood) it is a bit like that - scruffy in parts.
I haven't ridden a bike in years and felt a bit wobbly at first but it all came back.
After our ride we drove to the Paran Reservoir. We took a wrong turn and ended up at what looked like an abandoned military tower very close to the border with Jordan. Great views from up there. We found the road to the reservoir and drove to it. Steve stopped the car at a big sign warning you to go no further because it was the border, but it wasn't the border and you could see where you could drive to the reservoir and there was even a deck built so you could look at it. Still, we decided to leave the car and walk the last bit.
The reservoir is dry. The border with Jordan goes through one part of the reservoir. We were standing a football field lenght from the border. There was no fence, but we could see a Jordanian building in the distance and it looked official, with a watchtower. Straight across from us, maybe 50 miles?, in the Jordan mountains, is Petra. To get there you have to drive an hour south to Eilat, cross into Jordan (there are only 3 or 4 places where you can cross along the border of Israel), then drive two hours up to Petra (the road to Petra goes inland a bit so is longer than the highway here that goes straight along the border). Anyway, we are not going to Petra. The road sign to the reservoir says Old Petra Road (in Hebrew only).
We drove north of Param to the next village, Tsukim or Zukim. First we went to look at a hotel I had tried to book us into, Nofzuquim. It was full when I tried to book months ago but I only found out recently it was because of a film festival going on right now. We walked around the grounds and an employee who did not speak English pointed us to the office when we thought he was pointing us to a viewpoint. So we talked to the manager and he let us walk around and look into one of the cabins. The hotel is made of about 10 cabins nicely spaced with views out to the desert. They have mini kitchens but no stovetop. Each has a terrace with a hot tub (very popular in Israel). They look fabulous.
Next, lunch at Ursula, the restaurant and deli in Tsukim. There are several vegetarian options. We both had Shakshuka, a breakfast dish. Fabulous. I could see staying here at the hotel and eating at the restaurant.
Tsukim looks a lot like a town you might find outside Santa Fe NM, where we used to live. Adobe looking houses (built of concrete block I think and covered in stucco - as in Santa Fe where many of the "adobes" are stucco frame houses), some green areas, lots of dry desert.
We were going to continue exploring north but there were dark clouds and as we drove north heavy rain started. We turned around and drove back to Paran.
We stopped at the Paran Viewpoint where there was a memorial to Jewish Organizations in Canada (and some in other countries) who supported the building of Paran. Jew from around the world aren't just planting trees here but are building parks in Jerusalem and developing the Negev. There were plaques talking about Paran and it's place in the Old Testament, one of the sites where the Children of Israel stopped their wandering from Egypt to the Promised Land and where Moses sent people to observe the Land of Canaan.
We could see the dark clouds and the rain approaching, but it never materialized in Paran. Just a few sprinkles. There have been flash floods. In the northern Arava Valley (we are in the southern part) yesterday, Mitzpe Ramon to the west today.
It has been an interesting few days in the Arava Valley. I like being in the desert. The heat has not been bad, not over 80F and cool at night. I like the sunshine even though it feels a little too much at times, as it did in Santa Fe. The intensive agriculture here is interesting to see. And I think there are some interesting things going on in these towns - farmers mixed with artists and "new age" people - people living alternative lifestyles. Very different from the cities. But, this is just my guess from a quick visit.
Tomorrow, Eilat on the Red Sea. I think it will be like Ein Bokek. Kind of disgusting, kind of fun.
We took out the bikes provided here and spent an hour riding around the town. It is small but spread out. There is a second grocery store but we did not find it. There are two bike/people paths across the town and it is a nice way to look at the houses. Along the bike path there is green grass and trees. Along the roads it is a bit scruffy. Bare dirt, a few old dead cars, piles of building supplies. Not pristine like many towns in England. Even in Jerusalem in the German Colony (an expensive neighborhood) it is a bit like that - scruffy in parts.
I haven't ridden a bike in years and felt a bit wobbly at first but it all came back.
After our ride we drove to the Paran Reservoir. We took a wrong turn and ended up at what looked like an abandoned military tower very close to the border with Jordan. Great views from up there. We found the road to the reservoir and drove to it. Steve stopped the car at a big sign warning you to go no further because it was the border, but it wasn't the border and you could see where you could drive to the reservoir and there was even a deck built so you could look at it. Still, we decided to leave the car and walk the last bit.
The reservoir is dry. The border with Jordan goes through one part of the reservoir. We were standing a football field lenght from the border. There was no fence, but we could see a Jordanian building in the distance and it looked official, with a watchtower. Straight across from us, maybe 50 miles?, in the Jordan mountains, is Petra. To get there you have to drive an hour south to Eilat, cross into Jordan (there are only 3 or 4 places where you can cross along the border of Israel), then drive two hours up to Petra (the road to Petra goes inland a bit so is longer than the highway here that goes straight along the border). Anyway, we are not going to Petra. The road sign to the reservoir says Old Petra Road (in Hebrew only).
We drove north of Param to the next village, Tsukim or Zukim. First we went to look at a hotel I had tried to book us into, Nofzuquim. It was full when I tried to book months ago but I only found out recently it was because of a film festival going on right now. We walked around the grounds and an employee who did not speak English pointed us to the office when we thought he was pointing us to a viewpoint. So we talked to the manager and he let us walk around and look into one of the cabins. The hotel is made of about 10 cabins nicely spaced with views out to the desert. They have mini kitchens but no stovetop. Each has a terrace with a hot tub (very popular in Israel). They look fabulous.
Next, lunch at Ursula, the restaurant and deli in Tsukim. There are several vegetarian options. We both had Shakshuka, a breakfast dish. Fabulous. I could see staying here at the hotel and eating at the restaurant.
Tsukim looks a lot like a town you might find outside Santa Fe NM, where we used to live. Adobe looking houses (built of concrete block I think and covered in stucco - as in Santa Fe where many of the "adobes" are stucco frame houses), some green areas, lots of dry desert.
We were going to continue exploring north but there were dark clouds and as we drove north heavy rain started. We turned around and drove back to Paran.
We stopped at the Paran Viewpoint where there was a memorial to Jewish Organizations in Canada (and some in other countries) who supported the building of Paran. Jew from around the world aren't just planting trees here but are building parks in Jerusalem and developing the Negev. There were plaques talking about Paran and it's place in the Old Testament, one of the sites where the Children of Israel stopped their wandering from Egypt to the Promised Land and where Moses sent people to observe the Land of Canaan.
We could see the dark clouds and the rain approaching, but it never materialized in Paran. Just a few sprinkles. There have been flash floods. In the northern Arava Valley (we are in the southern part) yesterday, Mitzpe Ramon to the west today.
It has been an interesting few days in the Arava Valley. I like being in the desert. The heat has not been bad, not over 80F and cool at night. I like the sunshine even though it feels a little too much at times, as it did in Santa Fe. The intensive agriculture here is interesting to see. And I think there are some interesting things going on in these towns - farmers mixed with artists and "new age" people - people living alternative lifestyles. Very different from the cities. But, this is just my guess from a quick visit.
Tomorrow, Eilat on the Red Sea. I think it will be like Ein Bokek. Kind of disgusting, kind of fun.
Pauline
Forums Admin
I should have knocked wood when saying I was sleeping so well in Paran. Last night everything seemed to keep me awake. Dogs barking. Someone starting up a car and going out, then coming back. Some farming noise. Still it was a comfortable rental.
We left by 10am, after a conversation with Anat who we rented from, about vegetarian restaurants in Tel Aviv. She is a vegetarian and one of her sons is vegan. The Georgian vegetarian restaurant that we liked so much in March has closed, but she gave us a few other recommendations.
Eilat is only an hour south but we took the scenic route which was about 30 minutes longer. South of Paran it is even more barren. It looks like there are military areas. We drove down highway 90, then turned west on 13. Then south on 40 (the road we will take back to Mitzpe Ramon on Monday), and more west on highway 12.
At the 40 and 12 intersection is a restaurant run by Kibbutz Neot Semadar (a vegetarian kibbutz that grows organic dates, nuts and fruits). They have a restaurant on the highway, right at the intersection, called Pundak Neot Semadar. We had planned to have breakfast here (Shakshucka!) but the kitchen was closed because it was Friday and they were only serving light things. So for breakfast we had hummus with pita and bread and a bowl of soup. Both were excellent. We will stop here again when we leave Eilat and have breakfast. They have a nice outdoor seating area but we sat inside because there was a cat at the table.
From there we drove along highway 12 which goes right along the border with Egypt in parts. We could see the tall border fence just a few feet from the side of the road.
We stopped at Red Canyon where you drive in a mile or so, on a dirt road, to a parking lot and then do a short hike (under 1 hour return) to a spectacular red rock canyon. Not as spectacular and Wadi Barack which we walked a couple of days ago and not water. There were a few people and two buses! A large group of kids were heading towards the buses as we arrived. Again we turned around on the hike when we got to ladders and railing and handholds to get you up and across rocky sections.
Flies - so many flies! They drove us nuts on this walk.
On to Eilat and we arrived just before 2pm. Alon who checked us in said the local supermarket closes for Shabbot at 2:30 so we walked up and got our challah and a few groceries. We did not need much as we are only here three nights.
We walked down to the waterfront and - YIKES - it was like Waikiki (Hawaii) on the Red Sea! Very modern big hotels, lots of shops - you could hardly see the sea. A lot of people were out. We walked around the mall part then away from it a bit. Our host Alon said there is good swimming south of the center, on the road to the Egypt border. We will have to drive to that area.
Nice dinner at home. Big day tomorrow - hiking in Timna Park just north of Eilat.
We left by 10am, after a conversation with Anat who we rented from, about vegetarian restaurants in Tel Aviv. She is a vegetarian and one of her sons is vegan. The Georgian vegetarian restaurant that we liked so much in March has closed, but she gave us a few other recommendations.
Eilat is only an hour south but we took the scenic route which was about 30 minutes longer. South of Paran it is even more barren. It looks like there are military areas. We drove down highway 90, then turned west on 13. Then south on 40 (the road we will take back to Mitzpe Ramon on Monday), and more west on highway 12.
At the 40 and 12 intersection is a restaurant run by Kibbutz Neot Semadar (a vegetarian kibbutz that grows organic dates, nuts and fruits). They have a restaurant on the highway, right at the intersection, called Pundak Neot Semadar. We had planned to have breakfast here (Shakshucka!) but the kitchen was closed because it was Friday and they were only serving light things. So for breakfast we had hummus with pita and bread and a bowl of soup. Both were excellent. We will stop here again when we leave Eilat and have breakfast. They have a nice outdoor seating area but we sat inside because there was a cat at the table.
From there we drove along highway 12 which goes right along the border with Egypt in parts. We could see the tall border fence just a few feet from the side of the road.
We stopped at Red Canyon where you drive in a mile or so, on a dirt road, to a parking lot and then do a short hike (under 1 hour return) to a spectacular red rock canyon. Not as spectacular and Wadi Barack which we walked a couple of days ago and not water. There were a few people and two buses! A large group of kids were heading towards the buses as we arrived. Again we turned around on the hike when we got to ladders and railing and handholds to get you up and across rocky sections.
Flies - so many flies! They drove us nuts on this walk.
On to Eilat and we arrived just before 2pm. Alon who checked us in said the local supermarket closes for Shabbot at 2:30 so we walked up and got our challah and a few groceries. We did not need much as we are only here three nights.
We walked down to the waterfront and - YIKES - it was like Waikiki (Hawaii) on the Red Sea! Very modern big hotels, lots of shops - you could hardly see the sea. A lot of people were out. We walked around the mall part then away from it a bit. Our host Alon said there is good swimming south of the center, on the road to the Egypt border. We will have to drive to that area.
Nice dinner at home. Big day tomorrow - hiking in Timna Park just north of Eilat.
Pauline
Forums Admin
We spent the day with @joe !!
Joe lives in this part of Israel and has helped me a lot with planning this trip and our March trip. Without Joe, @ItalophileNJ and @Amy our first trip would not have been such a success.
We met at Timna Park, a park with interesting rock formations and canyons just 30 minutes north of Eilat on highway 90. You pay to enter the park (it is not part of the Israel Nature Park system so we could not use our pass, but it was not expensive - I think Steve said 50 NIS for the two of us) and then you drive in on one lane paved roads to the different sights. Joe drove us in and we visited Solomon's Pillars, a beautiful rock formation. There are rock drawings from ancient Egyptian times (figures carved into the rock).
Then we did a very nice hike out through a rocky area and into a canyon, even across a small sand dune, then we climbed up a steep canyon wall to the top. I am happy to report that I did well on this and only had to be helped up or down a few steep sections. We walked for a few hours, at a nice easy pace, chatting as we went. It was a hot and sunny day, but not too hot. We had lunch sitting in deep shade from the canyon wall.
The area reminds me of places I have been in Utah and Arizona, but the history here is different and much older. There are remains of prehistoric copper mines (4000 years ago), the rock art from a similar time, remains of settlements from before the Romans (the Nabataeans). It is a beautiful place.
After our hike we drove around to a few more sights. One was a wall of rock art - carvings - showing people and animals with several Ibex.
As we were leaving the park I spotted some Ibex in the valley below the road. We stopped and watched a male (with good horns), female and three young eat from some of the trees and make their way up the valley.
Joe is a date farmer! He took us out to the palm date orchard and we got to sit on one of the platforms that a machine raises up so they can work at the top of the palm trees. We were right up close to the top of the palm tree. Dates were harvested a couple of months ago and now they are trimming the trees and getting ready for next year's crop.
We drove to the edge of the date farm and then walked around sand dunes to see the fence border with Jordan. It is a tall new fence in one part (extending from the new airport), but is just a rickety old farm fence further on.
It was a great day! On the way home we stopped at the Bird Watching area near Eilat. We drove right by the main border crossing to Jordan. We saw the parking lot where people leave their cars to go into Jordan (you can't take your car). The Bird Watching area was closed, but we were able to walk in and around a bit. It was starting to get dark but we did see some small stork-like birds. The kids on dune buggies and the airplanes going low overhead detracted from the experience.
Eilat's airport is in the center of the town, but a new airport is almost open further north. When they close the current airport the bird watching area will be nicer.
Dinner at home and dates for dessert (Joe gave us a box of his dates - and they are really good).
Joe lives in this part of Israel and has helped me a lot with planning this trip and our March trip. Without Joe, @ItalophileNJ and @Amy our first trip would not have been such a success.
We met at Timna Park, a park with interesting rock formations and canyons just 30 minutes north of Eilat on highway 90. You pay to enter the park (it is not part of the Israel Nature Park system so we could not use our pass, but it was not expensive - I think Steve said 50 NIS for the two of us) and then you drive in on one lane paved roads to the different sights. Joe drove us in and we visited Solomon's Pillars, a beautiful rock formation. There are rock drawings from ancient Egyptian times (figures carved into the rock).
Then we did a very nice hike out through a rocky area and into a canyon, even across a small sand dune, then we climbed up a steep canyon wall to the top. I am happy to report that I did well on this and only had to be helped up or down a few steep sections. We walked for a few hours, at a nice easy pace, chatting as we went. It was a hot and sunny day, but not too hot. We had lunch sitting in deep shade from the canyon wall.
The area reminds me of places I have been in Utah and Arizona, but the history here is different and much older. There are remains of prehistoric copper mines (4000 years ago), the rock art from a similar time, remains of settlements from before the Romans (the Nabataeans). It is a beautiful place.
After our hike we drove around to a few more sights. One was a wall of rock art - carvings - showing people and animals with several Ibex.
As we were leaving the park I spotted some Ibex in the valley below the road. We stopped and watched a male (with good horns), female and three young eat from some of the trees and make their way up the valley.
Joe is a date farmer! He took us out to the palm date orchard and we got to sit on one of the platforms that a machine raises up so they can work at the top of the palm trees. We were right up close to the top of the palm tree. Dates were harvested a couple of months ago and now they are trimming the trees and getting ready for next year's crop.
We drove to the edge of the date farm and then walked around sand dunes to see the fence border with Jordan. It is a tall new fence in one part (extending from the new airport), but is just a rickety old farm fence further on.
It was a great day! On the way home we stopped at the Bird Watching area near Eilat. We drove right by the main border crossing to Jordan. We saw the parking lot where people leave their cars to go into Jordan (you can't take your car). The Bird Watching area was closed, but we were able to walk in and around a bit. It was starting to get dark but we did see some small stork-like birds. The kids on dune buggies and the airplanes going low overhead detracted from the experience.
Eilat's airport is in the center of the town, but a new airport is almost open further north. When they close the current airport the bird watching area will be nicer.
Dinner at home and dates for dessert (Joe gave us a box of his dates - and they are really good).
Last edited:
ItalophileNJ
100+ Posts
Another great couple of day reports. Like Doru, I’m enjoying them immensely.
Eilat —— haven’t beeen there since October 1978 right before Israel ceded the Sinai back to Egypt and so we could drive east? to what was then Di Zahav, etc. it was not yet quite so built up, more than when we had been there in 1969, but nothing like today!
Love your photos of Timna. I should have told you that the father of a good friend of mine had donated pots and pots of money to Timna through JNF-KKL (Jewish National Fund -Keren Kayemet L’Yisrael) to build up Timna for visitors and I’m pretty sure the Visitors Center is named for her Chudnow family. But I’ve never been to Timna except briefly in 1969. Wow.
You are having an amazing trip. Thanks for taking us along!
Eilat —— haven’t beeen there since October 1978 right before Israel ceded the Sinai back to Egypt and so we could drive east? to what was then Di Zahav, etc. it was not yet quite so built up, more than when we had been there in 1969, but nothing like today!
Love your photos of Timna. I should have told you that the father of a good friend of mine had donated pots and pots of money to Timna through JNF-KKL (Jewish National Fund -Keren Kayemet L’Yisrael) to build up Timna for visitors and I’m pretty sure the Visitors Center is named for her Chudnow family. But I’ve never been to Timna except briefly in 1969. Wow.
You are having an amazing trip. Thanks for taking us along!
These thorns got stuck on Pauline's shoes while we walked in the sand dunes of Samar (a protected area of dunes). This is an interesting plant : you can see how its seeds can get attached to animals and be dispersed in this way. These round pods contain a few seeds, but generally only one will sprout if there is a good rain - the others will wait for the next time, and thus maximize the chances of continuity of the species. One of the strategies of desert plants.
This specific plant is called "Button of the Sands" in Hebrew, Neurada procumbens L :
http://flora.org.il/en/plants/neupro/
It was a real pleasure finally getting to meet Steve and Pauline in person and not just through the forum. I must say that for two people who lived so close to the grandeur of the Grand Canyon, Canyonlands, and other spectacular sights in that area of the US, their enthusiasm for all the relatively small cracks in the ground here in Israel that get the name "canyon" is really amazing !
Pauline
Forums Admin
I read your post to Steve and he said he had noticed the logo for that group. He knew the JNF but not the KKL. He took this photo of a memorial at Paran.
Pauline
Forums Admin
Frequently when I am looking at something in Hebrew, like a package label or a receipt, my instinct is to have it upside down. Tonight I was making a joke to Steve because I had some almonds in a plastic container and had cut out the name from the package they were in (I do this at home so I know what is in the container). My joke is that I cut it out so I would know what was in the container but I can't read Hebrew, so it wouldn't tell me, and, of course, I was holding the label upside down. I am a natural with languages!
Steve knows some Hebrew from going to those afterschool classes when he was young, but he never learned to speak Hebrew. Since our first trip he has become interested in Hebrew (and put aside his current language passion - German) and while we are here he as been doing a language lesson each day. He can only speak a few basic phrases but he is getting better at reading Hebrew. Today we were trying to pay our parking ticket online and the English version of the site listed countries (where you filled in your address) only in Hebrew. We had to Google Translate the various versions of our country's name - United Kingdome, Great Britain, Britain - and write down the word and then compare it to the list - difficult when it is in Hebrew. We finally found it - Britain (not Great Britain - probably still some resentment here over how the Brits made a mess of it all):
בריטניה
but by then the page had timed out. Even pasting that Hebrew in here made the text I was writing in English start going from right to left instead of left to right. I think for tourists the driving on the left thing in the UK is nothing compared to the right to left of the language here. Arabic must be even more difficult! I look at the Arabic signs and can't even see letters, just squiggles.
So, our last day in Eilat and only one more day in the desert. We had some horrible supermarket bread and no toaster, so made some toast using the oven, but then decided to go out to a coffee shop. Eilat is not a walking town, it is a driving town. We drove over to the center of town. Not far, just a few minutes in the car. Parked correctly (on blue and white curb) and paid with the Pango app (this is a great app which you start when you park - it knows where you are - and stop when you return - your credit card is charged).
We went to a Cofix (chain) and had a fabulous coffee and a croissant, sitting on stools outside looking right at the airport, which is in the center of town. We watch planes take off and land from our balcony. It will be closing down soon because the new one, north of town, is almost ready.
This downtown area is more interesting than the horrible area of hotels and shops along the sea. We found a Hertz office and asked them what we should do about the parking ticket. Pay it at the Post Office. We walked a bit further to the Post Office and went to the machine where you get a number. There was a guy getting his number and he got one for me too. People are not over the top friendly here but if you ask for help they will make sure you are looked after. We waited about 20 minutes and finally got to pay the parking ticket. Done!!
We drove along the coast south of town. Once the hotels and malls end there is a huge port. Fields of new cars. Then it turns back to resorts but not as huge and flashy as in the center of town. This area is nicer. Part of it is run by the Nature Parks and we could have gone in and used the beach (with our parks pass) but it was hot but not "I have to go swimming" hot so we just walked along a bit and looked at the beach. We drove right up to the border with Egypt. You can't easily cross - can't take your car, have to pay a hefty fee to one country or the other.
Joe had recommended a viewpoint on Highway 12 which we wanted to stop at on the way in on Friday, but we ran out of time, so we drove back to it - Mount Yo'ash. We parked and climbed up on a dry, rough path to the lookout, realizing when we were there that we could have driven to the top. The view was fantastic. Beautiful stone hills, the Red Sea, misty mountains beyond. To our right was Egypt (the Sinai Peninsula), to our left Jordan and their only port. Past that is Saudi Arabia. Mecca is on that coast and we were probably looking at it.
The African and Arabic plates meet in the Jordan Valley in Israel. We are so close to Africa here.
I found an interesting looking falafel place on Google Maps, in our neighborhood, and we drove there - Avshi Falafel Schnitzel. It was in a group of shops in a residential area. There was a crowd of people in front of the counter. Two guys behind were making the food. There were only three things you could order - vegetarian falafel, and two others I didn't bother remembering. A fridge with drinks. The guy gives you a nod, even though you are behind a lot of people (they had already ordered) and asks what you want (in English thank heavens). You tell him and then as you get to the counter they are making yours.
This was the best falafel of my life. Cut the pita, put in hummus, put in a bunch of falafel, add salad, onions, cabbage ?, pickles, fried eggplant, top with tahini sauce. We took it home and at it on our balcony.
Our apartment - good enough for three nights but very basic. The owner is an engineer at the new airport and it looks like an engineers apartment. Comfy couch, good TV, the best internet we've had the whole trip, comfy bed, but the most basic kitchen possible. One glass! Three bowls! A space where the dishwasher should go. Huge fridge. Horrible glass cutting board. Nothing to wipe the counters with. Three hangers in the closet. But good enough for three nights.
It was the opposite of the cottage in Paran which was like an art exhibit. Everything beautiful and displayed beautifully. But no where to hang your clothes and a sink so small that you washed your feet when you washed your face.
But both hosts have been helpful and friendly and we have enjoyed our stays here. I don't think I would return to Eilat (except for that falafel). Instead I would stay in the desert north of here. If we visit the Arava Valley again I would stay in Tsukim (Zukim) because it is not an agricultural town, so you are not surrounded by greenhouses where they use pesticides (probably) on the crops, and it has a good restaurant and a deli. Or one of the northern Arava towns. I liked Paran and the hike we did, but one stay there was probably enough. Anyway, this whole area is new to us and these different stays were so we could get a feel for the area.
Today I started looking at flights to come back in March! Not many awards tickets left - unless we came in February. Will have to think about it. We head north tomorrow with one night on the way in Mitzpe Ramon. I am looking forward to seeing that area. And then our week in Tel Aviv where we will stroll along the sea instead of scrambling in canyons.
Steve knows some Hebrew from going to those afterschool classes when he was young, but he never learned to speak Hebrew. Since our first trip he has become interested in Hebrew (and put aside his current language passion - German) and while we are here he as been doing a language lesson each day. He can only speak a few basic phrases but he is getting better at reading Hebrew. Today we were trying to pay our parking ticket online and the English version of the site listed countries (where you filled in your address) only in Hebrew. We had to Google Translate the various versions of our country's name - United Kingdome, Great Britain, Britain - and write down the word and then compare it to the list - difficult when it is in Hebrew. We finally found it - Britain (not Great Britain - probably still some resentment here over how the Brits made a mess of it all):
בריטניה
but by then the page had timed out. Even pasting that Hebrew in here made the text I was writing in English start going from right to left instead of left to right. I think for tourists the driving on the left thing in the UK is nothing compared to the right to left of the language here. Arabic must be even more difficult! I look at the Arabic signs and can't even see letters, just squiggles.
So, our last day in Eilat and only one more day in the desert. We had some horrible supermarket bread and no toaster, so made some toast using the oven, but then decided to go out to a coffee shop. Eilat is not a walking town, it is a driving town. We drove over to the center of town. Not far, just a few minutes in the car. Parked correctly (on blue and white curb) and paid with the Pango app (this is a great app which you start when you park - it knows where you are - and stop when you return - your credit card is charged).
We went to a Cofix (chain) and had a fabulous coffee and a croissant, sitting on stools outside looking right at the airport, which is in the center of town. We watch planes take off and land from our balcony. It will be closing down soon because the new one, north of town, is almost ready.
This downtown area is more interesting than the horrible area of hotels and shops along the sea. We found a Hertz office and asked them what we should do about the parking ticket. Pay it at the Post Office. We walked a bit further to the Post Office and went to the machine where you get a number. There was a guy getting his number and he got one for me too. People are not over the top friendly here but if you ask for help they will make sure you are looked after. We waited about 20 minutes and finally got to pay the parking ticket. Done!!
We drove along the coast south of town. Once the hotels and malls end there is a huge port. Fields of new cars. Then it turns back to resorts but not as huge and flashy as in the center of town. This area is nicer. Part of it is run by the Nature Parks and we could have gone in and used the beach (with our parks pass) but it was hot but not "I have to go swimming" hot so we just walked along a bit and looked at the beach. We drove right up to the border with Egypt. You can't easily cross - can't take your car, have to pay a hefty fee to one country or the other.
Joe had recommended a viewpoint on Highway 12 which we wanted to stop at on the way in on Friday, but we ran out of time, so we drove back to it - Mount Yo'ash. We parked and climbed up on a dry, rough path to the lookout, realizing when we were there that we could have driven to the top. The view was fantastic. Beautiful stone hills, the Red Sea, misty mountains beyond. To our right was Egypt (the Sinai Peninsula), to our left Jordan and their only port. Past that is Saudi Arabia. Mecca is on that coast and we were probably looking at it.
The African and Arabic plates meet in the Jordan Valley in Israel. We are so close to Africa here.
I found an interesting looking falafel place on Google Maps, in our neighborhood, and we drove there - Avshi Falafel Schnitzel. It was in a group of shops in a residential area. There was a crowd of people in front of the counter. Two guys behind were making the food. There were only three things you could order - vegetarian falafel, and two others I didn't bother remembering. A fridge with drinks. The guy gives you a nod, even though you are behind a lot of people (they had already ordered) and asks what you want (in English thank heavens). You tell him and then as you get to the counter they are making yours.
This was the best falafel of my life. Cut the pita, put in hummus, put in a bunch of falafel, add salad, onions, cabbage ?, pickles, fried eggplant, top with tahini sauce. We took it home and at it on our balcony.
Our apartment - good enough for three nights but very basic. The owner is an engineer at the new airport and it looks like an engineers apartment. Comfy couch, good TV, the best internet we've had the whole trip, comfy bed, but the most basic kitchen possible. One glass! Three bowls! A space where the dishwasher should go. Huge fridge. Horrible glass cutting board. Nothing to wipe the counters with. Three hangers in the closet. But good enough for three nights.
It was the opposite of the cottage in Paran which was like an art exhibit. Everything beautiful and displayed beautifully. But no where to hang your clothes and a sink so small that you washed your feet when you washed your face.
But both hosts have been helpful and friendly and we have enjoyed our stays here. I don't think I would return to Eilat (except for that falafel). Instead I would stay in the desert north of here. If we visit the Arava Valley again I would stay in Tsukim (Zukim) because it is not an agricultural town, so you are not surrounded by greenhouses where they use pesticides (probably) on the crops, and it has a good restaurant and a deli. Or one of the northern Arava towns. I liked Paran and the hike we did, but one stay there was probably enough. Anyway, this whole area is new to us and these different stays were so we could get a feel for the area.
Today I started looking at flights to come back in March! Not many awards tickets left - unless we came in February. Will have to think about it. We head north tomorrow with one night on the way in Mitzpe Ramon. I am looking forward to seeing that area. And then our week in Tel Aviv where we will stroll along the sea instead of scrambling in canyons.
Pauline
Forums Admin
Okay, we’ve seen enough Ibex. Here in Mitzpe Ramon they wander around town eating trees and gardens. We came here to see the Ibex and we saw them soon after we arrived.
We left Eilat this morning, forgetting to get gas, but remembered after we passed the last gas station for 100 miles. We got off at the next exit and drove back to it. The station was self serve with a very confusing payment system. Swipe your card, enter your mobile phone number, your ID number (or 123), your car registration, the number of your pump and you are good to go. My phone number? At least they had instructions in English. A guy arrived to get gas and offered to help us but we had figured it out. I asked him why it was so complicated? He said “In Israel everything is complicated”.
We drove to the Pundak Neot Smadar restaurant where we had stopped on the drive to Eilat. This time the kitchen was open and we sat out in the garden and had shakshuka. The food was good and the place was peaceful. A green oasis in the middle of the desert. The restaurant is run by the kibbutz Neot Smadar, a vegetarian kibbutz (or so I read) with a focus on art. They grow organic dates and fruits and sell both from their shop at the restaurant and in natural foods shops around Israel.
It was another hour driving through beautiful desert until we came to the Ramon Crater (Makhtesh Ramon). We had intended to do a hike at the bottom of the crater but decided to go up to the visitor’s center on the rim first. We got hiking advice and maps there and decided to do a hike from the rim down half way then back up. We walked along the rim to the trail, then walked down for 45 minutes, then back up. The trail was rocky but not steep and was easier going back up because it was easier to see the trail. The views were wonderful. Only a few other people on the trail. It was sunny and hot, but not too hot.
As we left the visitor’s center we saw a group of Ibex crossing the main road to eat the flowers planted in the roundabout. We parked and followed them. They continued across the road to the grounds of the luxury hotel here (not where we are staying). There were three males with long horns, a few females and a few young ones. A few other people stopped to watch them. We talked to one guy from Haifa who said they have Ibex at Mt Carmel now.
Mitzpe Ramon is very small, population 5,000. We are staying at Desert Home, a small hotel on the edge of town. We checked in and sat on our balcony watching the sunset. The hotel’s cat kept us company. After dark we walked around this part of town. There is an area of shops and restaurants (the Spice Quarter) but nothing looked interesting so I cooked a simple meal in our room. I chose this hotel because they have kitchenettes. The room is quirky but spacious and interesting. We have a huge balcony.
Tomorrow, the big smoke, Tel Aviv.
We left Eilat this morning, forgetting to get gas, but remembered after we passed the last gas station for 100 miles. We got off at the next exit and drove back to it. The station was self serve with a very confusing payment system. Swipe your card, enter your mobile phone number, your ID number (or 123), your car registration, the number of your pump and you are good to go. My phone number? At least they had instructions in English. A guy arrived to get gas and offered to help us but we had figured it out. I asked him why it was so complicated? He said “In Israel everything is complicated”.
We drove to the Pundak Neot Smadar restaurant where we had stopped on the drive to Eilat. This time the kitchen was open and we sat out in the garden and had shakshuka. The food was good and the place was peaceful. A green oasis in the middle of the desert. The restaurant is run by the kibbutz Neot Smadar, a vegetarian kibbutz (or so I read) with a focus on art. They grow organic dates and fruits and sell both from their shop at the restaurant and in natural foods shops around Israel.
It was another hour driving through beautiful desert until we came to the Ramon Crater (Makhtesh Ramon). We had intended to do a hike at the bottom of the crater but decided to go up to the visitor’s center on the rim first. We got hiking advice and maps there and decided to do a hike from the rim down half way then back up. We walked along the rim to the trail, then walked down for 45 minutes, then back up. The trail was rocky but not steep and was easier going back up because it was easier to see the trail. The views were wonderful. Only a few other people on the trail. It was sunny and hot, but not too hot.
As we left the visitor’s center we saw a group of Ibex crossing the main road to eat the flowers planted in the roundabout. We parked and followed them. They continued across the road to the grounds of the luxury hotel here (not where we are staying). There were three males with long horns, a few females and a few young ones. A few other people stopped to watch them. We talked to one guy from Haifa who said they have Ibex at Mt Carmel now.
Mitzpe Ramon is very small, population 5,000. We are staying at Desert Home, a small hotel on the edge of town. We checked in and sat on our balcony watching the sunset. The hotel’s cat kept us company. After dark we walked around this part of town. There is an area of shops and restaurants (the Spice Quarter) but nothing looked interesting so I cooked a simple meal in our room. I chose this hotel because they have kitchenettes. The room is quirky but spacious and interesting. We have a huge balcony.
Tomorrow, the big smoke, Tel Aviv.
