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Itinerary support for two weeks in Puglia in May 2025

Thanks Ian for the great practical ideas, before my wife past in mid 2023 we always travelled with everything we needed and we picked a car up from whatever arrival airport and dropped it back there, so bags were easy to handle. On my trips since then, being on my own, I am using more trains and when convenient public transport or excursions, but the bags need to be handled much more.
I am renting a car for 10 days of this trip to Puglia and other times, trains and public transport if convenient and timely, so thought it's time to downsize .
My return trip about a week ago from Cardiff to Dublin to Philadelphia to Dallas reminded me to start now. In Dublin I had two bookings, one to PHL and one to DFW but the airline wouldn't merge them and there was not the time between flights to pick up bags and clear security and then check-in for next flight with bag to get on next flight. So I needed to carry my bags, hence the plea for some ideas.
Thanks again Ian, take care
 
Be ruthless and I mean ruthless about what you take. I read a comment somewhere about packing light which said if you take very few clothes on a holiday you will get really fed up of them, but you won't wish you'd taken more.....this is so true! We spent a week in Spain mid-Jan to mid-Feb with (for two people, not each), one 40x55x20cm carry on and two small backpacks 40x20x25. It made transits by train, bus, taxi, everything, much less tiring. You can use hotel shampoo or soap to handwash small essentials like underwear/socks.
I hope you have a great time!
 
Many thanks Tina, will do my best based on Ian's and your confirmation of travelling light.
First time in that area of Italy and looking forward to it.
I just want to "Keep travelling" as long as I can...:)
Take care
John
 
I have a long list of places to possibly visit, so will list them here to attract thoughts on the best towns/area to spend time in. BTW, I have taken note of your thoughts on Martina Franca and Locorotondo.
Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Alberobello, Matera, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Brindisi, Galatina, Ostuni, Gravina in Puglia, Barletta or Molfetta, Lecce, Gallipoli, Vieste (if I hire a car for Trani)
Obviously a wish list, but getting down to the best manageable places to visit is the aim.
coming back to this, for a long time we've avoided most hard/inked in dates when holidaying, but instead gone (overly - oops on my part) prepared with a long list of possible places to visit, see, things to do, places to eat and buy food, enoteche etc. etc. About 5-10 times the amount we'd likely cover. It's there purely as options, plus a reminder on specific days for markets etc. and many opening times. All UTTERLY over-prepared, but I used to get a lot of enjoyment from the planning, giving me something clear to look forward to when work weighed heavy. When there we might broadly discuss aspirations for the next day over dinner/supper, but often it was a breakfast chat. Once decided, I'd make sure I had those specific notes, and off we'd go. Sometimes the notes would be completely ignored if we saw a place to eat/drink we liked the look of, otherwise they were a great help in navigating to a decent place not too far away.

In short, I like a long list of options, giving flexibility to match the mood once there.
 
I prepare plans FAR in advance down to an excruciating level of detail. Once there, my wife will say, "Let's do this instead". Still somehow married for 37+ years.

In my climbing/hiking days, I learned to get by with only the clothes I was willing to carry on my back, so it is second nature to keep packing to a minimum. Most items will dry overnight after a sink washing and taking more than 3 of any one item is excessive (no one is going to notice that you're wearing the same clothes and, in truth, American concepts of hygiene are excessive).
 
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Thanks Alpinsta, with the last comments I will reorganize my thoughts on packing.
I thought I was doing well with only taking 8 shirts for a 10 day trip, plus some dress shirts :).
Over the weekend I revisited the list of places I want to see matched to the places I am staying, so not to travel too far.
Ian's last mail makes me think I have gone overboard a bit with what I want to accomplish.
Here is current plan:
  • USA - BCN - Bari
  • stay overnight in Barcelona
  • Bari to Trani for 4 nights (no car)
  • visit Trani, Barletta, Molletta, Bitonto, Castel del Monte (will check transport to these outside Trani, probably train or excursions or ?
  • Pick up car at Bari and drive to Castro di Lecce - Hotel for 4 nights
  • visit Brindisi ?, Lecce, Otranto, Mariana di Leuca, Gallipoli maybe Acaia
  • Drive to hotel in Putignano - 4 nights
  • visit Martina Franca, Ostuni, Cisternino, Locorontondo, Alberobello, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare - is this number too many
  • Drive to Matera - 2 nights
  • visit Matera and Gravina
  • Drive to Bari, drop off car and stay in Bari for 2 nights
  • visit - walk Bari plus ??
  • Train to Roma Trastevere
  • Visit the Trastevere area/restaurants etc., (which I like) for 2 nights
  • Flight to USA after 19 days
Staying in Rome for 2 nights is still not firm as I was there some months ago, just a direct flight back to US is the reason for going this way.
I am sure there are some great places I am missing, plus some that I could miss, plus I haven't looked at reasonably priced places to eat, visit etc., or times to visit based on "siesta" times. So work to be done. Unless I forget, I like weekly markets so will try and match with my location and days. Your input based on your experience will be appreciated as I can still change dates/cancel hotels.
Many thanks
 
I have pretty much given up wearing dress shirts, but take a collared golf shirt with me as part of my packing. Takes care of any restaurant where a t-shirt isn't quite enough. Quick drying shirts and underwear are your friends when you pack.

You have what should be a great itinerary.

Only item that might bear some review is Marina di Leuca. We took the drive from Lecce to Otranto to Leuca just to say we had been to the tip of the heel. The wild coastal scenery is appealing along the way, but there isn't much beyond some nice picnic spots to draw your attention for stopping. The town is attractive, but a quick look at the town square and the lighthouse are the primary points of interest. The time spent on the round trip drive there might be invested in other locations?

As to your question of "too much?" You can adjust on the fly. My memories of Puglia relate heavily towards the food (which was different and delicious); the dialect (which was different and often incomprehensible); and the cherub overload in the Baroque churches (you will be dreaming of cherubs by the end of the trip).
 
I think it could work although it's a busy itinerary.
From Trani, Barletta and Molfetta are easy by train, you could also add Giovinazzo by train if Bitonto by bus is complicated.
Brindisi is nice
Your days in Putignano will be very full but all the places you mention are worth seeing and they are all quite small so a half day is enough in each or just two or three hours.
Since those days will be busy, for your last base I would probably spend the whole time available in Matera without going to Gravina as well.
The same for Bari, two nights means one full day and the afternoon before, I would relax and explore Bari without trying to add anything else.....
 
One small comment on clothing. Consider fabrics that will wash easily and dry quickly - technical fabrics rather than something like cotton. Merino wool is my favorite for travel. It can often be worn multiple times without smelling, dries quickly when washed and can usually be hand washed if needed. If you need something a bit dressier - limit to maybe one outfit. With 4 night stays you should be able to fit in either laundering yourself with air dry time or have the hotel launder for you (including the dress clothes) if they are set up for this on these stops. Check ahead as part of overall planning.
 
Thanks Alpinsta, with the last comments I will reorganize my thoughts on packing.
I thought I was doing well with only taking 8 shirts for a 10 day trip, plus some dress shirts :).
Over the weekend I revisited the list of places I want to see matched to the places I am staying, so not to travel too far.
Ian's last mail makes me think I have gone overboard a bit with what I want to accomplish.
Here is current plan:
  • USA - BCN - Bari
  • stay overnight in Barcelona
  • Bari to Trani for 4 nights (no car)
  • visit Trani, Barletta, Molletta, Bitonto, Castel del Monte (will check transport to these outside Trani, probably train or excursions or ?
  • Pick up car at Bari and drive to Castro di Lecce - Hotel for 4 nights
  • visit Brindisi ?, Lecce, Otranto, Mariana di Leuca, Gallipoli maybe Acaia
  • Drive to hotel in Putignano - 4 nights
  • visit Martina Franca, Ostuni, Cisternino, Locorontondo, Alberobello, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare - is this number too many
  • Drive to Matera - 2 nights
  • visit Matera and Gravina
  • Drive to Bari, drop off car and stay in Bari for 2 nights
  • visit - walk Bari plus ??
  • Train to Roma Trastevere
  • Visit the Trastevere area/restaurants etc., (which I like) for 2 nights
  • Flight to USA after 19 days
Staying in Rome for 2 nights is still not firm as I was there some months ago, just a direct flight back to US is the reason for going this way.
I am sure there are some great places I am missing, plus some that I could miss, plus I haven't looked at reasonably priced places to eat, visit etc., or times to visit based on "siesta" times. So work to be done. Unless I forget, I like weekly markets so will try and match with my location and days. Your input based on your experience will be appreciated as I can still change dates/cancel hotels.
Many thanks
I like the 1st stop, as Trani is on pretty close to Bari airport, avoids crossing the city, and is a joy to stroll around and without 'bright lights', so getting aver jet lag here feels ideal. Personally we'd probably do max 1 or 2 day trips for the 4 days, but that's reflective of our being happy to more fully explore the base and factoring in relaxation time.

The Trani to Castro di Lecce drive a reasonably long transfer (but 3 hours not bad at all), but could be made to work ideally if you can avoid rush hour around the Bari, Brindisi and Lecce autostrada junctions. If this were a Sunday it would be absolutely ideal, but otherwise pick up the car after c. 9am, and that should avoid heavy traffic.

A day trip into Lecce feels good, ideally if there is local transport in, but otherwise plan a route to a car park in advance to de-stress the journey. You can be pretty free-form on day trips here, driving a route and stopping where it takes your fancy.

Putignano. Possibly too many stops, but it's not unreasonable to have 1-2 day trip locations per day. Critical to this is timing re: the classical lunchtime closing. If doing 2 locations in a day, one gets the morning, the other gets the afternoon, with lunch in either or a planned stop en-route. Also remember it's somewhat stressful driving through towns, but very easy outside them. However once you've been through each one once, it will be much easier. I'd certainly see Alberobello (morning) and Locorotondo (afternoon) as absolutely viable. However if there's somewhere that really sounds appealing, plan to go there in the morning, eat there at lunchtime, and then if you do like it, stay into the afternoon. It's here I'd say have no hard plans, but let your energy levels dictate whether you do 0, 1 or two stops in a day.

Matera (Gravina). Although I recommended Gravina, I think it's a quirky (humdrum but with a huge gorge cutting it in two, spanned by a bridge) place that's worth further research to see if it really appeals to you. If you coincide with the (weekly?) street market, that might be enough to ink it in, but it's absolutely also an option on a transfer day, if you need to lose an hour or two to avoid arriving before the next room is ready.

Bari (2 nights) and Rome (2 nights) feels a bit rushed on both, plus 2 night stays we find the most disruptive to feeling settled/relaxed. Personally I'd remove one of those locations and give its time to the other one (and as you were leaning against Rome, I'd give it to Bari). Plus if doing so, that leaves a solid 4 day rhythm to the holiday (excepting Matera) which is nice, but beyond that brings us back to the laundry. If you can get laundry done in each location, you'll only need 4-5 days worth clothing. If there's one that's awkward for that, then I'd still aim for 6 days clothing and use the end/start of the bookend locations to do the laundry.

Finally, I always like to look at a plan, and see how it feels in reverse. In doing so I'm generally looking at:
- how easy is it to get over jet lag
- does it allow me to take the hire car direct to the departure airport
- does it create any logistical improvements / detriments (that can include hitting local events like festivals, markets, or shifting an awkward Sunday to somewhere else)

The original wins on the former for me, as I prefer coast/rural over cities for getting over jetlag, but conversely being in the city allows you to recover and find your feet without the car. It also means you could have a car in Trani, which I think would be beneficial for interesting day trips. Also reversing the order gives you the ease of driving direct to the airport, avoiding hassle of lugging heavy cases on trains / buses.
 
Sorry for delay in replying to so many great thoughts etc.
Alpinista thanks for the luggage feedback and I will look at that stop again. Too many cherubs - hahaha.
Hello Tina, hadn't thought of Giovinazzo, but looks interesting, so will see whether I continue with Bitonto or switch. Looks like the castle excursions/rail may not work, although I would like to go there.
I have booked a walking tour of Matera on the afternoon I get there, so may, as you suggest, just wander Matera the next day and visit some nice restaurants/sites etc., as I will miss the weekly market in Gravina anyway. Thanks
Thanks GailS for the very useful feedback, my daughter has been buying me the new fabric golf shirts so will definitely include those and I will check on hotels or local Lavanderias etc., on my travel route.
Based on Ashley's recommendation I have contacted Ristorante Alle Due Corti to check if they accept one person (and of course cost) for the cooking class. This seems like a good idea as my grandson and his wife always take at least one cooking class during their trips and enjoy it.
Ian, great feedback and thoughts. I will look at reducing the time in Trani, but may be difficult/more costly to change.
I will be driving to Castro di Lecce on a Sunday so traffic may be easier based on your comment. I did look at local transport to Lecce but the bus takes 1hr 40 mins which is too long, so will look at the car park situation near the most central area.
Also, having more time in Bari and less in Rome, in retrospect sounds like a better idea, but I would need to get to the airport early in the morning for my flight. The best I can do is cut the 2 days to one and try and change my flight, but does not give me additional time in Bari.
I have booked a walking tour in Bari so intend to just wander and relax for those two nights, toying with the idea of including Mola di Bari while there.
So thanks everyone, I really appreciate this continuing dialogue, so will now look at markets I can visit plus restaurants and interesting places to see in the various towns I eventually get to, and great churches with lots of Cherubs. :)
 
Bottom line is that there are no bad choices when it comes to choosing where and how to spend your time in Italy -- notice how I'm diplomatically not including my two least favorite places that are often on everyone's "gotta do" list ;-)

Please check back in at the conclusion of your trip to tell us how it worked out.
 
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Will do.
I have another question.
I have booked hotels generally outside large towns when I have the rental car, for ease of parking and of course cost.
When visiting large places like Lecce from Castro di Lecce, does anyone suggest parking in a central area or outside the town and using public transportation into that or any other large town/busy village.
Cars are great to get around and see these small villages, but sometimes not so in tightly packed fairly large towns.
Thoughts on personal experiences always appreciated.
Thanks
 
Can only answer half your question. We based in Lecce (Risorgimento Resort Hotel) on our Puglia trip and getting into and out of town by car was a royal pain. Our hotel had only valet parking (no parking at the hotel itself), so didn't have to look for public parking. I honestly don't remember seeing buses running in the centro storico, although I'm sure they were there.
 
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It can depend on the city. Options include:
- Find a car park that looks easy to navigate to and a modest walk from the centre, plot that route with the navigator in advance, perhaps even including a google streetview walkthrough to register it visually.
- If the train station is central, find a nearby local station and park up there, taking the next local train in.
- Parking in an outer suburb, if you see a frequent bus service in (often there isn't).
 
Be aware that some cities and towns in Italy have a ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato) which means you can't drive in them, at least during certain hours. If your rental car agency or yor hotel is inside the ZTL, they can give your plate number to the police so you won't get a ticket.

If you do a search for the town, they usually have a map showing the restricted streets. As you are about to enter a ZTL you will usually see a sign like the one below.

1744766100180.png
 
Be aware that some cities and towns in Italy have a ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato) which means you can't drive in them, at least during certain hours. If your rental car agency or yor hotel is inside the ZTL, they can give your plate number to the police so you won't get a ticket.

If you do a search for the town, they usually have a map showing the restricted streets. As you are about to enter a ZTL you will usually see a sign like the one below.

View attachment 47133
A very good point to stress, as the fines are not insignificant, and an unaware tourist might dip in and out of the ZTL multiple times, getting a ticket for each infringement, even if minutes apart.

We've been lucky, as only on one occasion did we bumble into one (in Bra), but fortunately it was a Sunday, so similar to the one shown in the picture with the crossed hammers, was working days only (I believe Saturday now included as a working day). Phew!
 

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