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Need help on finalising itinerary (first part)

Oh, good! I hope you like it. We will be staying there again in early October...I can report back afterwards. It has always been very nice.
 
Cristina is so lovely and I think we are going to book the orange one too, my SIL is deciding when she will meet us this weekend. x
 
I hope she is able to join you! Cristina is very nice to deal with - we first rented from her in 2010
 
Ok, a bit of a change of plan...I have been researching the Piedmont region...:)

For the final 10 night leg of our trip we are now considering driving from La Foce (near Montepulciano) to:

a BnB near Govone (piedmont) 3 nights
San Sebastiano da Po (in a castle) 2 nights
Turin 4 nights
Milan 1 night

OR

skip San Sebastiano da Po and add those two nights to Turin/ Govone.

WDYT?

Also would you add a stopover night somewhere from Tuscany to Piedmont or is it a pretty easy drive? We were considering stopping at Santa Margherita Ligure, Lucca or ?? instead of the 2 nights near the Po.

This section is a lot quicker than our normal pace, but we have decided that it will be better for DH to fly from Milan and easier for us to get to Venice from there (than Rome) for the next part of the trip. We will drop the car off in Turin.

We will include Bologna in the next part as it's a great base with no car. And regrettably we have decided to skip Le Marche for this trip due to logistics of driving across the country and time constraints.
Always next time!
 
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An interesting choice Govone, off the main route between Asti and Alba. Very easy to get to either in the car, but worth checking out the option of buses in case they are easier. Also on the fringes of the Roero, whose wines are starting to emerge from the shadow of the Langhe wines. Plenty of options to get up into the hills and do some walking.

Will be interested in your experience in San Sebastiano da Po, partly for the experience of staying in a castle, but also as we've considered staying on the north-eastern outskirts of Torino before (Chivasso or nearby), but in the end always end up in the city. Indeed you are so close to Torino that you could drive in relatively easily (though beware the ZTL and traffic that can be very busy) - or drive to say Chivasso and take the train from there. However on the upside, it gives you a lovely short transfer between the two! My gut feel is that if walking in the hills or exploring somewhere like Chivasso and the Parco Fluviale appeals, then a day could be squeezed from Torino to make it a 3:3 split. Don't get me wrong, ~ 10 stays in Torino since the mid 1990s tells you that I find plenty to do in Torino to last for much more than 3-4 days, but 3 days will give you a feel for the city and pick off some highlights.

Slow travel instincts would suggest dropping a location will give you more to see, not less, but that depends on what draws you to each. Might be worth writing down why you want to go to each and then using that to decide if a short stay compromises that vs. a minor disappointment to miss out on a dropped location.

One final option to exclude Milano (I hate one nighters where you get to see little, often just a quick stroll and a meal) - the regular Torino - Malpensa (was the airport Malpensa, I can't recall) coach service run by SADEM stops in Chivasso as well as Torino. Here is the timetable
http://www.sadem.it/media/5191/000020.pdf
Runs every hour and takes 90 mins from Chivasso or 2 hours from Torino. I've found SADEM pretty reliable over the years.

regards
Ian
 
I can completely understand your Piemonte itinerary : the three nights in Govone and two nights in San Sebastiano da Po will give you a glimpse and taste of certain parts of the region that have piqued your interest for whatever reason. I would not change this, even though I am inclined to think that both have some similarities - but for a first visit you will be overwhelmed, I believe, in any case.

This was also my dilemma the first time I planned a trip to Piemonte in 2008 - how the heck do you decide?! It has taken three trips to this beautiful province to make me feel that I can finally plan a fourth more easily. I now can differentiate between most of the sub-regions - although I still feel that there is much more to be seen, and that there will certainly be a fourth time. My policy at the beginning was also to move every two-three days, just to get this tasting and to get to know the niches.

So trust your instincts this time around - next time you might be able to do a more "reasonable" filtering of the excitement!

The area of Govone - like anywhere in the Piemonte countryside - is a gorgeous mosaic of small farms, rolling hills with villages with churches and castles perched on them, beautiful backroads and nice people. You can't lose.
San Sebastiano da Po - not been there specifically, but have spent some nice time driving and visiting the area to the south and east of there. Simply beautiful.
I can give you a few pointers for picturesque villages if you seal down these options.

Driving from Tuscany to Piemonte? Personally, I would not do this in one day - but that's just because I like to be able to stop a lot on drives (something beautiful and inviting always pops up unplanned!), and would not be able to do so in what looks to me like a five hour drive.

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Wow, stunning photos Joe!

So if you had to choose: Le Marche v Piedmont?

Ian and Joe, thank you for sharing your experiences and we may consider a transfer between Turin and the airport instead of going to Milan for one night. ...we can also catch the train across to Venice from the Milan airport, so that's easy.


Is there any quicker way to get from Tuscany to Piedmont that I am missing, like a [fast] train from somewhere in the Tuscan region?

Where would you stop for a night or two on the way? I have been poring over maps but there are so many options! Or would you "wing it" in late May and see where we land?
 
PS: If we choose Piedmont, which is looking likely, where else besides Govone and Turin would you stay for a few nights, where do you love?
 
I've enjoyed two stays in Piemonte. One was in the town across the ridge from Gavone, San Martino Alfieri. Gavone is very small, I do recall a good bakery there; and San Martino had two good restaurants and a pizzeria. San Damiano d'Asti is the market town nearby with shops and restaurants, Monday is market day. BTW, the Castello in Gavone I believe opens one day a week in the season, it is well worth doing the little tour or any of the castles in the area. In that area we spent 10 days, venturing primarily to Asti and Alba for our "city" hits; and doing drives where we explored Costigliole d'Asti, Calosso, La Morra, Cherasco, the Serralungha area. The drive between Canale d'Alba to Cisterna d'Asti is very pretty, as are the small roads and towns in the Langhe. You'll find plenty to do!

Ah, here's the site for finding open castellos: http://www.castelliaperti.it/it/

Our more recent trip was centered north of Asti, in the Monferrato. We had a little house in Cocconato, a sweet hilltop village.My blog entries from that trip are here. http://www.slowtrav.com/blog/amy/archives/italy/piemonte2013/
 
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Hi MTB
It depends where / to, but there is a 9.56am Freccia train from Pisa to Asti, taking 3 hours. There may be other options, such as a Freccia train to Genova and then approach Piemonte from the south. These trains may precede Pisa with a more convenient station.

Other places to see in Piemonte?
I like Cuneo, but let's chalk that one off as being too far west to be convenient. Ditto the region of Valle d'Aosta to the north and the mountains to the west e.g. Giaveno. Ivrea to the north was appealing and once the rotting oranges from the festival are are gone, the air is very alpine fresh. Might be a bit out of the way.

Suggestions:
Acqui Terme is a good option if spending 2-4 nights there. Make sure one of the days is when the market is on, as it's a good one. If you want somewhere within easy driving distance we stayed at the agriturismo Tre Colline in Langa, which wasn't over fancy, but a joy to stay in, with great convivial evening banquets for little money. Bubbio itself is small and pleasant, but of little interest to tourists normally. Good walking on country lanes with cars rarely encountered.
WEEKLY MARKET – Every Tuesday and Friday morning until 1 p.m.
throughout the historic centre, Corso Italia, via Garibaldi, piazza Orto San Pietro, piazza Addolorata, piazza San Francesco, via M. Ferraris and Piazza Ferraris
As Joe mentions, so many places around a large area have good walking, and we went on a great organised walk in. You are spoilt for choice for good scenery/ walking, so maybe let the accomodation you like most steer your plans?

Castino area (they were amazed that ourselves and another overseas couple turned up for what would normally be a local group).
Langhe wine country (Barolo, Barbaresco, plus others) draws many in. As well as the wine, I rave about the walking here, as the vineyards are almost all in shared ownership, so access is free for all to stroll through. This makes for some of the most pleasant and easy to navigate walking, and a picnic amongst the vines is pretty special. I've got a few recommendations of places to stay if this appeals. Ditto wineries if you wanted to organise a tasting. Some wonderful restaurants here, but barring a few castles, the walking and the scenery, might the kids get bored.
Alba is effectively the town/city that leads to the Langhe wine region, has great history and some cracking food shops and also a good quality market. Now with a direct train service to Lingotto and Porta Susa stations in Torino, so brings the option of dropping the car off there.
Asti is bigger than Alba, and is the leading city for the larger Asti wine region. It's large market is brilliant, but despite a large historic area, this city has never really wowed us.
Mondovi isn't on many tourist plans, but I mention it for the large shopping complex Mondovicino, which is more enjoyable than most because the individual shops are indoors, but the walk between them is in the fresh air. Might be a nice bribe for the kids? Perhaps an option for a half-day rather than a stay, but who knows?
Torino, we've discussed :)
Gattinara/Novara and around. Ideal if planning to fly out of Milano Malpensa, and close enough that a taxi might be an option. Novara is an under the radar gem, which I'd like to return to. Lovely open areas in the city, fine architecture and great food. Gattinara and other nearby wine regions - I suggest Gattinara for the smallish historic town appeal.

To try and bring some order to all these ideas, it might be worth nailing what you'd want e.g.
Torino a must for the big city & culture, must have a rural locations for walks & drives & picnics & farmhouse meals, plus something else that is strikingly different from those two (e.g. the castle).

 
Wow, Ian and Amy, what amazing information. I think I am in love with this area already!

Would it be "a waste" to stay 4 nights in Turin after 4 nights in Govone? Govone seems to be in between Asti and Alba and fairly central to the region for exploring with a car.

Then we could drop the car off in Turin and catch a train to the airport (although Novara looks lovely too)

I am trying to have as few bases as i can, and have changed my mind about the Castle near the Po in preference to the Langhe area.

I am booking Dh's flight out a day later now so we will have an extra night. So I can either have a stop between Tuscany and Piedmont for 3 nights (or less) or add these nights to Piedmont...
 
Ian's and Amy's suggestions are spot-on. If you indeed elaborate in more detail what your preferences are for touring itineraries, I might be able to add another tip or two.
Torino is a must-see. I am in complete agreement with Ian about how enjoyable this city is.
I don't know how you feel about driving in general - but for me driving into and out of Torino in a car is a good definition of "nightmare". Much better to wake up in the morning in one of its beautiful buildings than to start the expedition an hour away. Once in the city there is really no need for a car.
 
Excellent!
Joe, honestly, with two children in tow, we love exploring small-medium towns, seeing palaces, beautiful scenery, castles, churches, markets, practising our Italian language, eating, DH may play golf while we are in this area-he loves golf and is a low marker (4ish)- we like a relaxed feel and do not wish to tick off places as we go. Interactions with artisanal producers or artisans are also high on our list. Creativity in all forms is something we research and enjoy whenever we travel; art, food, music, buildings.

Flaneur is our style...LOL

The wines will be yummy and fun, but not our main event. But the food...bring it on! I read somewhere about a honey trail in this region which I will explore more about.

Short, relaxing strolls through the forests sounds like fun too. We may hire a bike and go for a ride, or a canoe if we stay near the Po.

I also admit to being attracted to beautiful accommodation, it doesn't have to be expensive (and normally isn't) but I love staying somewhere with a unique feel/building/history/quirkiness. Many trips have been planned around a particular place I want to stay.

In Turin we will enjoy seeing the Egyptian and Cinema museums, wandering the streets, eating chocolates, drinking Bicerin, trying out the aperitivi in the evenings with a glass of something delicious and local. But I admit to only having started researching this city, so I will add more as i delve deeper.


Just being in Italy, in a different region than the South, will be incredibly stimulating.

I agree we do not want a car in Turin!!

I am now considering catching a train from Tuscany to Turin for a more relaxing trip rather than tackling highways and town zoning. Just need to decide if we want to stay somewhere near the station for a night or write a day off for travel.
 
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How old are your children? That will color my suggestions. Also, forgive me as I'm coming to this late, but what will be the entire structure of your trip? I've learned when traveling with kids to vary things, and also provide opportunities for easier days makes everyone happier during the pace of an extended trip.

Kids would love Torino! It is also a very easy city to get around, and not overwhelming. And there's a few things in the Cinema Museum that will have them giggling for days.
 
As food is of interest, I'll ping my Torino cribsheet to you, which includes lots of good specialist shops. I'll also post the Google map that I set up, though from using it, I'm convincved it would be better re-organised with the layers = areas of the city, rather than types of shop/etc. In that way you can print off each layer which becomes much more usable on this tighter scale. Even if using a phone to navigate, I'd still recommend having a paper copy to better visualise it (and scribble notes)
 
If the Langhe comes in, then I've got a couple of recommendations of places that should have apartments that are the right size for 4:

Val di Spinso in Santa Vittoria d'Alba with good pool, garden and patio bbq area. A short hop to Verduno and thence to the other Barolo wine villages, but with a castle/hotel dominating the village, a handful of reataurants, a well-stocked alimentari, but also handy for Alba-Bra train line (which you could even take to Torino) and the out of town stores that line the main road about 5 mins drive away. Apartments very clean/spacious & well equipped. Breakfast is included in the price, and is ok but no crime to skip it on occasions. http://www.valdispinso.it Via Rolfi, 5, 12069 Santa Vittoria d'Alba. I note they also arrange bike rental, but we didn't organise it.

La Rosa Gialla in Monforte, has apartments of varying size, but the larger one our friend stayed in should be ideal, with 2 (or was it 3?) bedrooms and plenty of space. They'd just started bottling their own wine (they are an offshoot of the Vajra/Vaira family). Pleasant gardens / sun deck and a nice length walk (maybe 15 mins) into Monforte, which has very good restaurants and a decent amount to see for a village. You're also well placed for walking to Barolo or Serralunga d'Alba through the vineyards.

AGRITURISMO La Rosa Gialla (Marina Rinaldi)
http://www.larosagialla.it Località Ginestra, 12 - Monforte d’Alba (CN) - Tel. +39.339.1267767

Plenty of other places, with Langheroero.it website being good, but the Alba based tourist office behind it even better. They are very helpful / organised.

regards
Ian
 
here's the Torino crib sheet. We've not been to all places, far from it, but all have either sounded interesting, or we've found it when there.
 

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How old are your children? That will color my suggestions. Also, forgive me as I'm coming to this late, but what will be the entire structure of your trip?

Amy, the children will be 8 and 11yo.

The trip will be broken into two sections. One with DH, myself and the children for 4.5 weeks and the second part once DH comes home and we meet up with my SIL. We are in Italy in the Spring.

The second month, I am unsure of yet, but will be back once I have a good chat to my SIL and her desires and plans as she is doing a tour and then meeting us.

Our trip so far;

Rome 7 nights (Campo dei Fiori area)
Assisi 6 nights
Tuscany, near Montepulciano 7 nights

Then this part, which I am in the throng of...we now have 11 nights after Tuscany, I squeezed an extra one, because flights to Singapore/Australia from Milan don't leave every day...YAY

We will definitely plan some down time and relaxed adventures due to the length of our stay. Not just for the kids!!! LOL.

So now I am debating whether to break the Piedmont part up into 3, 3, 5 nights or 6, 5.

DH wants to drive directly from Tuscany to Piedmont in one day. I was leaning towards breaking it up or catching a train, but he loves to drive and the novelty of being on "the other side of the road" is something we enjoy, so he is looking forward to it. He also likes the idea of being able to stop on the way of we see something cool. I am happy with whatever he prefers and just know that we will have a big travel day over and done with in a single day.

So we will hit the countryside first and then end in Turin, dropping the car off on the day we arrive there.

Monferrato area/Langhe/Turin are where I am leaning towards, or just a longer stay in Langhe/Turin.

It seems as though there is a lot around the Govone area, with a 40km radius? Or Asti?

IanSutton....thankyou! Again. Off to read and google.

I truly appreciate all of the help from you and this forum, I hope I can come back and share our experiences as eloquently. If you ever need help with Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Australia...please PM me. xo
 
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