Planning a trip to Amalfi

[Roz]

We were in Sorrento for 5 days in early November 2004. The weather was a bit iffy -- just about every day had at least some rain, but never a total washout. Usually there were some torrential thunderstorms which lasted anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours. We had planned to spend at least one day driving down the Amalfi Coast, but because the weather was so chancy we ended up taking other day trips instead.

We went to Capri, Naples, Pompeii, and Paestum, which were all wonderful places to visit. Sorrento itself isn't much to write home about, and its main feature for us was that it was easy to get to other places by train or boat. Even in November Sorrento was pretty jam-packed with tourists, but since we didn't actually spend a lot of time in the town it was okay. It was an especially good time to visit Pompeii and Paestum, since it wasn't too hot, and there weren't as many crowds as I'm sure there would have been even a month earlier. But you may have already been there, Pauline. If not, they definitely should be on your A-list.

I do have a trip report saved somewhere from that trip if you're interested.

 

[Ian Sutton]

This trip did not happen in April as I had planned. Instead we went after Easter to Basilicata and then Umbria. Now I am thinking about this trip again but doing it the first two weeks of November. Has anyone been to the Amalfi Coast off season?

I'd certainly recommend (late) April/May, or September/October. Not surprised to hear November can be a bit wet, and having less daylight can curtail sightseeing (and just time spent taking in that view). The main reason I can see to choose November (or end march / early april) is if hiring a car to drive to Paestum, Herculaneum, Pompeii or escape out for a rural lunch.

One hazard to think about with increased rain, is the amount of stone steps you will go up / down during the holiday, assuming you tap into the brilliant criss-cross of paths along the coast. Even a 30-40 minute walk down from Ravello to Amalfi covers~ 1200 steps. Wet steps need more caution, so you'll find yourself looking down much more than in better weather.

October can indeed be brilliant, so if possible, moving it forward to then should make a big difference.

 

[Mom83]

We stayed in Positano the 3rd week of March several years ago. It was cool, but we were fortunate in that we had no rain...just a few overcast days, but several sunny days also. The one benefit - the lack of crowds. Driving the Amalfi Coast was quite easy as there was little traffic. We visited Pompei and enjoyed the fact that it was not crowded. The same was true when we took the ferry over to Capri from Sorrento for the day. If many of the stores and restaurants were closed, it was not readily apparent to us as we had never been there before. If we are fortunate enough to make a return visit, I would definitely go again in the off season (either March or November). The older I get, the less tolerance I have for crowds and heavy traffic.

 

[Pauline]

All good points, especially the shorter days. We have been to the area twice before. This trip would be mostly hiking. Hummm.

 

[Pauline]

I am closing in on booking this trip. I pushed it a week earlier (a bit tricky because we had friends who maybe were going to visit here), so we would be the last week of October, the first of November. We will have one night in Naples, two nights on Capri, then 11 nights in Positano. I gave up on looking for a rental in Amalfi. I can't find anything with under 100 steps to it and that I like. Positano has so many lovely rentals.

This time we won't have a car. (Last time a SITA bus drove into us!)

 

[Ian Sutton]

SITA bus is sensible and I reckon that's a good compromise on dates.

If not already planned, I'd recommend the bus (from Positano - outside Bar Internazionale IIRC - buy tickets there) up to Montepertuso, and either bus or walk down, which takes surprisingly little time, despite the huge drop in height.

 

[Pauline]

If not already planned, I'd recommend the bus (from Positano - outside Bar Internazionale IIRC - buy tickets there) up to Montepertuso, and either bus or walk down, which takes surprisingly little time, despite the huge drop in height.

We spent two weeks in Positano in May 2016 and had a great time, which is why we want to return. The place we rented was near Bar Internazionale. We were in Montepertuso several times. There is a great walk from there, across the middle of the mountain and then down to Bar Internazionale. We did that twice (once in each direction), plus a higher level walk on the same route. And we walked the steps from Montepertuso down. Wonderful!!

 

[Pauline]

And the trip is booked! We ended up booking for the first two weeks of November. Turned out our friends who were possibly coming to visit in Dorset really meant it, so we went back to our original plan and didn't push the trip forward. Fingers crossed for good weather, no rain, no wet footpaths.

We are flying to Naples arriving in the evening and getting a car service to Positano (late checkin at the rental). No rental car this time. We are not overnighting in Naples or going to Capri - decided to make this a Positano only trip.

We booked a rental from Summer in Italy, in the lower part of town. Last year we had a rental from them in the upper town, with fabulous views. This rental is above the church in that busy area with the shops and restaurants, but it is down a lane so should be out of the busyness. It has a nice terrace with a view of the beach and the sea. We got a good rate because it is off season. We are spending 12 nights.

I was choosing between renting @Kathy 's apartment in Provence and the Amalfi Coast for this trip and ended up choosing the Amalfi Coast only because I had that trip planned for last April and then it didn't happen because I had left it too late to book things. In my mind I was all set to go to the Amalfi Coast, and now we are going.

I have my hiking books and maps from last time, so am set! Last time we did a lot of hiking, but we did not do the Path of the Gods trail. We did part of it, out and back from Nocelle. This time we will get a car service from Positano to the start in Agerola (a hill top village near Bomerano above Amalfi) and do the 2 hour walk back to Nocelle and Positano.

We will do the two other hikes from Positano that we liked, maybe a new one from Amalfi and maybe one on the Sorrento coast. We might go to Pompeii again. We've been twice but have never made it to the Villa of the Mysteries section. And I would like to see that nearby Poppaea and the Villa of Oplontis which we did not get to last time.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Pauline
One hike I would recommend, and especially for the small number of steps, is the valley of the mills walk (in Tippett's guide). Ideally get a bus up and walk down (IIRC it starts at Pontone, but we walked there from where we were staying in Ravello). Lots of woodland, plus the historic paper mills, and we encountered only a single other person on the whole walk IIRC, until we reached the first houses in Amalfi.

One short but remarkably strenuous walk, is the one that starts underneath the Duomo in Amalfi, and heads over to Atrani. Only 20-30 mins, but a good number of quite steep steps, and ending up in the cool sheltered square in Atrani. The architecture (built into the viaduct) is remarkable. Not for everyone, but I suggest as you may appreciate it as I did, there is a small diversion halfway along the walk, up to the colonnaded Cemetery, that is a distinctive feature as you look inland. I went there on a quiet morning I had to myself, and found it both reflective and heart-warming, with some wonderful photos there to remember their loved ones. More a special place than a sad place, though it certainly can touch varied emotions.

Also in Amalfi - Andrea Pansa pasticceria. Don't think about it, just go and indulge The cakes are very good indeed.

regards
Ian

 

[Linda Yoder]

I was there at the very end of October and even though the weather was nice everything was shutting down for the season. The ferry will not be running in November and lots of the restaurants will be closed. We were the only ones in our hotel and it was a bit creepy. They would shut off all the lights that normally would stay on and it was pitch Black! We were the last guests of the season and we got the feeling they wish we were not there. We laughed about it but it felt a little like we were staying at "Thde Bates Motel"!
Since your there to hike and enjoy the scenery I'm sure you will still have a good time. If you stay in Positano there will be restaurants open.

 

[Pauline]

I was there at the very end of October and even though the weather was nice everything was shutting down for the season

Was that recent Linda? I am hoping the season is a bit longer because the area is so popular. We were there the first 2 weeks of May last year and they said the season was starting earlier now. Anyway we are booked and it will be nice to be there without the crowds.

@Ian Sutton , we did the mills walk from Amalfi last time and loved it. We will either do it again or do the higher up version from the Cicerone guide. I have the Sunflower guide too.

We will do that walk to Atrani - sounds great - and I think we can carry on to Minori.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Yes Minori is quite charming and the roman villa there is worth exploring, a very relaxed place to visit. I used to mistakenly group it with Maiori, which is wrong - very different places.

Although we've done the walk from Ravello to Amalfi a number of times, the walk to Minori is less steep and with some good views that open up. An option to keep in mind. It doesn't take long at all - under 45 mins IIRC

 

[Engred]

If you have not yet been, I would highly recommend a visit to Paestum. Also, in Positano I have been meaning to walk up to the cemetery as the views up there are gorgeous.

I would love to see the apartment you rented - I am always on the lookout for new places in Positano.

 

[Pauline]

We have been to Paestum and loved it. We walked from Montepertuso to Positano and that goes by the cemetery. We also hiked up to the top of the mountains above Positano, so high up that we could look north to Naples. The views down to Positano were amazing. I have some photos here:

https://www.sloweurope.com/community/threads/naples-and-positano.1345/#post-8046

We are renting this villa. Friends are joining us for part of the time.

http://www.summerinitaly.com/holiday-home/villa-cipriana/

 

[Engred]

Pauline, we rented that apartment a few years ago and enjoyed it. Not the huge sea view we are used to but the location was excellent. Be sure to have a good contact phone number or person, as we had problems with the electricity when we were there. They told us to just check with the ladies who run the clothing shop below, but often the clerks did not speak English.

 

[Pauline]

On our last visit, May 2016, we were up near the Coast Road with fabulous views. This time I wanted to be closer to the main part of town. I'll make sure we get contact info, thanks!

 

[and]

Hi Pauline,
While November is off-season on the Amalfi Coast, what I've noticed is that they are trying to extend the season to be longer and longer. For example, in Ravello they have concerts and events pretty much all-year round now. This wasn't the case a few years ago. There are 3 concerts in the first 2 weeks of November from what I can see: https://www.ravello.com/events/2017/

The outdoor stages are the most spectacular, especially the belvedere, but the indoors are still a worthwhile and attractive option.

 

[Valerie]

Hooray! Looking forward to seeing you two!

 

[Pauline]

We leave on Saturday for 12 nights in Positano. The weather forecast is looking good - temps in mid 60sF, sun, a couple of showers. I will start a trip report and post photos.

 

[Mom83]

When we were in Rome the middle of this month, it was hot during the day and sunny and dry every day. I hope this mild dry weather continues for your trip to the AC.