Planning a trip to Menton or Antibes, Provence

[Cameron]

@Cameron Have you stayed in Maison Gioanni? It looks lovely, but there are no photos of the balcony. I found the building and balcony on Google Street View - a long narrow balcony over the street. No views - except of street and police station. Nice looking building and the apartment is very nice inside. Also a queen sized bed and it says "low allergen enviornment" which might mean they use more natural things for cleaning, etc. But would the nearby police department create noise? And it is bigger than we need, so more expensive to the others (but only if the others are at the off season rate which they may not be).

Yes. My husband and I stayed there. We were expecting another couple and they cancelled, but we kept the apartment. The balcony is narrow, but there is room for two to sit facing each other. The French doors on that side of the apartment open onto the balcony. Across the street is a small playground, and so the only noise is from small children at certain times. The building surrounding the playground is the Gendarmerie, but it is the barracks for the families, therefore residential and not with sirens, flashing lights, etc. The other neighbors are quiet. There was a flea market on one end of the street a few times, but not in front of the apartment. We had a car, but we had to move it constantly and there are so few spaces that subsequent stays in Antibes, we didn't rent a car except for the days we wanted to drive over the Grande Corniche.

Of the Apartments in Antibes, the Cap View is available and looks nice, but it is 3rd floor and no elevator is mentioned. It looks to be in a quieter part of town and the views of the water are great. Carousel is available but is in too much of a shopping area I think (with a perfume store nearby - we both dislike perfume, so that would be annoying). Market looks interesting but I think it might be very small (the sofa is almost in the kitchen) and perhaps in too busy of an area. (I am hard to please - I want to be near cafes and shops, but not on top of them.)

Cap View was very comfortable and very sunny as it faces the ocean. Again, a narrow balcony, but my husband I ate many meals there. While it lacks the architectural charm, it has other advantages. Yes, there are stairs, but being in a more modern (maybe 1970-1980s), the stairs are wide and not as steep as most I've climbed in Paris. It is a block or so up from the Archaeological Museum that is on the water front. Very easy walk to shops in Old Town or to the modern shops, as it is just on the border. Because of the Gendarmerie, you must walk behind it (through town streets), or in front of it, along the waterfront. We tended toward the water.

Of the two, Maison Gioanni is very high end and my favorite. The kitchen is to die for. The closet space in the master bedroom is more than I have at home! Turn a corner and you're on the cobblestones of Vieux Antibes.

Cap View is about the view and sunshine. The furniture was comfortable. The space is smaller than Maison Gioanni.


I'd stay in either one again. I'm searching for photos of Maison....stored on my backup drive.

Here's Cap View:

Here's a map that shows the location of both. Maison is 51 rue General Vandenberg and CapView is 19 Avenue Principal Pastour.

 

[Cameron]

Google street views:

This is the outside of Maison balcony on right. Vieux Antibes area.

This is the outside of Cap View (balcony up on the left). "Modern" area.

 

[Pauline]

Thanks @Cameron !

 

[Marta]

I think you will love Antibes. If you want to do any hiking - you will probably want a car for more than just a day. Or split the time and stay in a village/city that has better access to parking. The Hinterland of Riviera is what I really like and it is difficult to do via public transportation. I think a lot of the hikes and places on the Easy Hiker site are only accessible via a car. I explored options for getting into the area via bus,etc and it was really hard and unreliable as Cameron mentions.

Let me try to find a link to the website for the book that Cameron linked. (found it - AzurAlive) The writer was on slow travel if I remember and she had a website. She may have moved the info into the book. I also used one of the old Sunflower guides for walks. I thought of trying to do one of the hikes that you can get to via the tourist train Train des Pignes from Nice. I wasn't certain of the directions and would be do it solo so I never did it. I think there are a few hikes up around Vence which would be easy to get to from Antibes and maybe doable via public transportion.

 

[Marta]

I was looking at the Sunflower book to get the name of some hikes. Gourdon , Cap Lardier near St Tropez and one in the Esterel above Cannes were listed. Googling these for hikes you can find some other good websites/blogs with ideas. Here are two I found. Hikes Gourdon and Hikes Cote d'Azur. I think if you can get some names of potentials - you can find lots of information in both English and French.

Our class went to Gourdon for a day - I loved the views. It is a little touristy but I enjoyed it. They specialize in the french spice cake which is kinda similar to US gingerbread.

 

[Pauline]

Thanks @Marta - that is a good idea! A week in Antibes without a car then pickup a car and go up to a village. Or the reverse.

There are lots of vacation rentals on HomeAway, so I am looking at some. Hoping to find something like Maison that @Cameron suggested, but with 1 or 2 bedrooms. I will post my short list.

 

[Cameron]

We thoroughly enjoyed walking the natural and peaceful Sainte Marguerite Island (we ferried about 15 minutes out of Cannes harbor). We didn't take a tour. There was only one place to buy food at the ferry landing, but we had packed a picnic. There is also a ferry to the Île Saint-Honorat where there is a monastery, but we didn't make it to that island.

There is sidewalk walking (about 20 minutes) from Antibes to Plage de la Garoupe beach. From there, catch the trail around the Cap. There is also a botanical garden (link to my blog) in the middle of the Cap peninsula.

We visited Grasse, Gourdon, Tourettes-sur-Loop, Haute des Cagnes (and a few more west as far as Frejus and Saint Tropez) when we had a car and stayed in Mougins. For the day rental car out of Antibes, we drove to Éze Village to see the gardens. From Antibes, we trained to Villefrance-sur-Mer for lunch and it would be easy to walk up to Villa Ephrussi, too. We had taken the bus from Nice to Ephrussi on a previous trip when we lunched at the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat harbor and then walked to Beaulieu. We trained to Menton.

Mougins has great restaurants if going up for lunch. There is a bus out of Cannes and it can be clogged with locals during rush hours. Otherwise, it's easy. That said, Vieux Mougins is at the top of a steep hill.

 

[Pauline]

We visited Grasse, Gourdon, Tourettes-sur-Loop, Haute des Cagnes (and a few more west as far as Frejus and Saint Tropez) when we had a car and stayed in Mougins.

Did you visit the Roman remains at Frejus? I have been looking into it and I think you can see an amphitheater, walls, and remains of the Aqueduct (Roman aqueduct in the area).

 

[Cameron]

We didn't see the Roman ruins at Frejus. We were out on a day trip and a bit tired after hiking around Saint Tropez peninsula and were on our way back to Mougins. The coastal highway was scenic all the way to Théoule-sur-mer. A long drive around the Estérel mountains.

 

[Pauline]

I carefully read through this thread again and am working my way through the links for hiking and @Cameron 's blog. Thanks for all this info. I had a brief moment of "I can't do the Cote d'Azur because there is too much traffic and it is too populated (and they make perfume there and I hate perfume)" and looked at vacation rentals in Uzes and Vaison-la-Romaine, then I came to my senses and realized that Antibes is the perfect destination for this trip and Steve agrees.

I will post my short list of vacation rentals this week and get this booked! I think we will do two weeks in Antibes with a car for one week (maybe in the middle of the time).

Thanks for all your help and patience with me.

 

[Cameron]

I think you'll love it! I'll continue to watch this thread for updates.

As for perfume, I never encountered any "misting salespeople" on the streets or markets. I never went to the perfume stores or did the factory tour. I don't wear perfume, but I use L'Occitance en Provence lavender bath foam and soap. When in France, lavender is the only scent I purchase in toiletries.

 

[Pauline]

There are many fabulous apartments to rent in Antibes. Here is my short list. I have gone for the more expensive places because this is a present for Steve (prices listed in GBP). I welcome any opinions!

These 3 are available the week I want.

1. Azure, ramparts townhouse
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p63266
2bed/2bath, £1504/week
300 yr old, renovated, luxury, 4 levels, terrace onto sea, great reviews
>> The most expensive on the list because of the terrace with sea views. Maybe noise from the street that runs below?

2. Maison Gioanni - Lovely big apt in Antibes Old Town
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p410013
Safranier is this lovely large recently renovated 3-bedroom apt. Recommended by @Cameron
1st floor, narrow balcony onto street, above shops
Oct 15 - 22 £834/week + 103 cleaning= £937
>> I always hesitate with places above shops (noise, fragrances from the shops).

3. Hygge Domus - Newly renovated in old Antibes
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p1843682
2bed/2bath £1376
1st floor, 1900s building, recent reno, terrace and balcony, no views, above shops
>> Same building as Maison Gioanni but more expensive. It has a terrace - maybe at the back? Above shops.

Antibes Rentals has 6 or 7 places and I think they own them all. They are all beautifully decorated and most are booked the week that I want, but some are available a few days later.

4. La Maison Provencale ANTIBES RENTALS (booked until Oct 20)
http://antibes-rental.com/homes/la-maison-provencale-details/
Oct 20 - 27 £1474
2bed/2bath, villa from 1926, away from the center with parking. Avail Oct 20.
Garden, roof terrace off bedroom with views
>> Not sure I like this location in the more modern part away from the old town.

5. Maison du Bateau - ANTIBES RENTALS (booked until Oct 21)
http://antibes-rental.com/maison-du-bateau-details/
2bed/2bath, old town, wifi
Oct 21 - 28 £1385/week, looks fab, no balcony - outside table in communal walkway
Great location - one block from sea, at Picasso Museum in old town, no apts above, quiet
>> Expensive for no balcony, but good location.

 

[Chris]

I like Azure best, for the view and the location. The second two show as being at the same location on the map, yet they don't appear to be related. I remember walking around that corner and thinking that had to be the best location in Antibes!

 

[Cameron]

There are many fabulous apartments to rent in Antibes. Here is my short list. I have gone for the more expensive places because this is a present for Steve (prices listed in GBP). I welcome any opinions!

These 3 are available the week I want.

1. Azure, ramparts townhouse WE CONSIDERED THIS ONE SEVERAL TIMES, BUT THE NUMBER OF LEVELS WERE A CONCERN. THIS IS FACING THE "MAIN" ROAD ALONG THE COAST, SO THERE ARE TIMES WHEN IT WILL BE NOISY. IT FACES ON THE SIDE OF THE HOMES AND OVERLOOKS PARKING AND YOU CAN SEE THE FRONTS OF OTHER HOMES.
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p63266
2bed/2bath, £1504/week
300 yr old, renovated, luxury, 4 levels, terrace onto sea, great reviews
>> The most expensive on the list because of the terrace with sea views. Maybe noise from the street that runs below?

2. Maison Gioanni - Lovely big apt in Antibes Old Town I'VE ALREADY RECOMMENDED. THERE IS A TROPHY SHOP DIRECTLY BELOW AND I DON'T REMEMBER IT BEING OPEN OR LOOKING OPEN, THOUGH IT WAS STOCKED WITH TROPHIES AND SUCH. A FEW DOORS DOWN ON THE CORNER, THERE WAS A SMALL PLACE THAT SERVED FOOD, BUT IT LOOKED LIKE THE SAME PEOPLE ATE THERE ALL THE TIME. I DON'T REMEMBER THE SMELLS. NOT NOISY, BUT NOT A PLACE WE FELT WE WANTED TO TRY.
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p410013
Safranier is this lovely large recently renovated 3-bedroom apt. Recommended by @Cameron
1st floor, narrow balcony onto street, above shops
Oct 15 - 22 £834/week + 103 cleaning= £937
>> I always hesitate with places above shops (noise, fragrances from the shops).

3. Hygge Domus - Newly renovated in old Antibes YES, SAME BUILDING, BUT I BELIEVE THIS ONE GOES ALL THE WAY THROUGH TO THE BACK STREET (THE TERRACE), WHEREAS, MAISON GIOANNI HAS SKYLIGHTS IN THE BATHROOMS AT THE BACK OF THE APARTMENT BEDROOMS. THAT BACK STREET SHOULD BE QUIET MOST TIMES.
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p1843682
2bed/2bath £1376
1st floor, 1900s building, recent reno, terrace and balcony, no views, above shops
>> Same building as Maison Gioanni but more expensive. It has a terrace - maybe at the back? Above shops.

Antibes Rentals has 6 or 7 places and I think they own them all. They are all beautifully decorated and most are booked the week that I want, but some are available a few days later.

4. La Maison Provencale ANTIBES RENTALS (booked until Oct 20) A VERY LONG WALK TO OLD TOWN SHOPS AND FOOD.
http://antibes-rental.com/homes/la-maison-provencale-details/
Oct 20 - 27 £1474
2bed/2bath, villa from 1926, away from the center with parking. Avail Oct 20.
Garden, roof terrace off bedroom with views
>> Not sure I like this location in the more modern part away from the old town.

5. Maison du Bateau - ANTIBES RENTALS (booked until Oct 21) YES, A GOOD LOCATION WITH MOSTLY PEDESTRIAN TRAFFIC. I walked that street many times. It is especially nice in the evening to stroll along the top of the ramparts. There were sometimes local concerts at the museum in the evening. My only concern would be the lack of sunshine, which makes that street very chilly if it's cold. The church bells beside the museum will be loud!
http://antibes-rental.com/maison-du-bateau-details/
2bed/2bath, old town, wifi
Oct 21 - 28 £1385/week, looks fab, no balcony - outside table in communal walkway
Great location - one block from sea, at Picasso Museum in old town, no apts above, quiet
>> Expensive for no balcony, but good location.

 

[Pauline]

Thanks for the comments @Cameron !

 

[Cameron]

A few more thoughts:

By lack of sunshine on that last link, I was referring to the narrow street with tall buildings. It is definitely the most convenient to everything in Old Town, the Ramparts and Port Vauban.

For Maison Gioanni-- it is the one on the left corner of the front, so it isn't sandwiched between two apartments. The master bedroom window overlooks that quiet side street.

The Azure, Ramparts townhouse terrace looks fabulous from down below. We coveted that view a few times. In off-season, the traffic should be less, but the seafront walk was heavily traveled by pedestrians during the spring months (in March, April, May). If my memory is correct, when I inquired, this one required a much larger deposit than the others.

On all of our visits, including twice during the Cannes Film Festival and the Gran Prix, Antibes didn't feel crowded.

 

[Pauline]

I emailed the owner of Hygge Domus, the apartment beside Maison Gioanni. It is a corner apartment too. He said there are two apartments on that level. But he uses fragrance sticks so that one was off my list. (Fragrance sticks are the new plug in air freshener, releasing fragrance all the time. Horrible for anyone with fragrance chemical sensitives.) That made me take Maison Gioanni off my list too - since they share the front balcony and I will smell the fragrance when windows are open. (Too sensitive, I know.)

I emailed the owner of Azure, the expensive place with the terrace looking out to the sea. He took 3 days to get back to me, offered a discount for staying 2 weeks but did not say what it would be and said he had to ask the housekeeper if they use air freshener or fragrance sticks. Another few days and he said he was waiting to hear from the housekeeper. Meanwhile we looked at the photos yet again and decided the four levels was going to be too much, the only dining table is on the terrace and the main bedroom looks really small. So we aren't taking it.

The winner is Maison du Bateau from Antibes Rentals. It is a semi-detached house on two levels (similar size to Azure - 1000 m2, 2bed/2bath). The bedrooms are a good size. Good kitchen and dining room. Great detailed reviews. Steps from the sea and from the market. On a pedestrian street. No views, no terrace - only a table outside the door in a shared courtyard. And it looks like it gets good enough light - large windows and they say it is bright (we'll see).

Antibes Rentals replied within hours of my email. They don't use fragrance. They offered a lower rate than on their website or homeaway, plus a lower daily rate for anything over a week. They are booked during Steve's birthday, so we are going two days after his birthday and spending 10 nights. Antibes Rentals has been good to deal with - holding the reservation while I figured out flights, not worried about us checking in after 7pm.

We will rent a car for part of the time we are there. I think we will take a car service or taxi from and to the airport and have the rental car in the middle for 5 days - picking up and dropping off in Antibes.

I am happy to have this booked. We leave on our Switzerland and Italy trip in just over a week! I need to focus on that.

Thanks for your help!!

 

[Pauline]

If my memory is correct, when I inquired, this one required a much larger deposit than the others.

That bugged me too about Azure. The deposit is almost 1500 Euro. The one we booked has a 500 Euro deposit which is high enough I think.

 

[Chris]

Good choice!

 

[Cameron]

Congrats! I think you'll love the location of Bateau. And, if you have rain, you'll be closer to the restaurants in Old Town. I love the photo of the owners on the website. They list the private garages and I know those places from previous trips and are much more convenient to your rental than Maison Gioanni.

I forgot to mention there is a very long walk from Old Town, around the harbor, then around Fort Carré. But I recommend using the free parking at Fort Carré, and then walk the circular path around the Fort. Very family-friendly and level.

La Gravette Beach is up against the ramparts and protected from the winds. I good place to picnic, but the entrance isn't obvious. It's up and over a wall to the right of the harbor entrance from Old Town, then down to the beach. When doing this, we liked to pick up sandwiches from La Ferme au Foie Gras (with a window open to the sidewalk for takeaway orders)--- menu.

There are many expat Brits in the area near the harbor and those bars fill up quickly from happy hour until closing.

There are many good restaurants, especially Italian, and I took a quick look at Trip Advisor. I suggest looking at a map to make sure you're looking in Old Town Antibes instead of Juan les Pins.

I'm excited for you!