Planning a trip to southern Italy in early Spring

[Pauline]

New York Times article about Greek temples in Basilicata.

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/03/08/travel/discovering-the-ruins-of-italys-ionian-coast.html

 

[Valerie]

Thanks Pauline. I'll post it on my FB page for My Bella Basilicata. Althought there are a few small errors in the article, as usual. Ufffaaaa!

 

[Pauline]

I have put new things on my list of Day Trips for our too-short time in Basilicata, based on this article. I copied in some bits from the article below.

After our week in Ostuni, we have one night booked Matera. From there we will see:

• Matera - The Crypt of the Original Sin, cryptoforiginalsin.it, a cave just outside Matera with beautiful ninth-century frescoes of Adam and Eve, the Madonna and Child, and SS. Peter and Agatha, painted by troglodytic monks escaping religious persecution in the Byzantine Empire. Guided tours only; 8 euros.
  >> We saw this on a recent TV series about Italy.

The next day we will drive down to the coast, to Metaponto (40 minute drive), to see the ancient Greek sites mentioned:

• Metaponto - Tavole Palatine, the site of 15 Doric columns dating from the sixth century B.C., just off Highway 106 in Metaponto near the Bradano River.
• Metaponto - The Archaeological Park is where many of the ruins are, including an amphitheater and temples dedicated to Athena, Apollo and Hera. Always open.
• Metaponto - National Archaeological Museum, 21 Via Aristea, Metaponto, houses a vast collection of Greek vases, jewelry, weapons and sculpture. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Monday from 2 to 8 p.m.

On our way driving to northern Basilicata we can visit (if there is time):

• Tursi - Santuario di Santa Maria di Anglona, a 12th-century church made from tufa stone near the village of Tursi. Over its rounded portal were carved animal representations of the four evangelists, and inside were colorful frescoes of saints.

And from our base near Valerie and Byran's we can go to:

• Grassano, the town made famous in “Christ Stopped at Eboli” by Carlo Levi, who was exiled there by the Fascists in the 1930s and sentenced to work as a village doctor. His book, published in 1945, described the harsh living conditions and embarrassed the Italian government, leading to social changes in Matera.

 

[jonathan]

Carlo Levi's main village of exile was Aliano (which he calls Gagliano in the book) - the little museum here, in the house where he lived, is well worth a visit.

I can't remember if you've seen the film (we might have it here on DVD - I'll look later), but the film location for Gagliano is a lot more ruined - it was shot at Craco, which is around there somewhere (V & B probably know), which we saw briefly on our drive back from our 2 days hiking in the Pollino National Park (which is also worth a visit!). You're right: you need more days there!

 

[Valerie]

Yes, that was one of the errors I mentioned about the article Levi was in Grassano for a very short time before being moved to the more remote and less populated Aliano. The town is designated a "literary park" and there are plaques on the walls of the places mentioned by Levi. It's a mystical kind of place, surrounded by funky erosion formations (not unlike some we've seen in NM!)

Craco is near Aliano. The town is completely abandoned and was a little freaky to visit when we went quite a few years ago. It was just us, some sheep grazing, and three other people among the ruins. Then it started getting attention and they fenced it off. You now have to pay entrance, wear a hard hat and be guided through a limited part of it. We'll take you to Aliano and that area.

Metaponto, I warn you, will not be too impressive after you've seen Paestum, but it's worth a stop.

We have a few dramatic places for you around here, and Bryan has beer brewing now so it will be ready when you get here!

 

[Pauline]

I have not seen Paestum but we saw the major Greek temples in Sicily last year. @Valerie - do you think we should skip it and spend more time in Matera or in your area? I was thinking we would drive from Matera to Metaponto then to yours. But maybe we should have the morning in Matera and the afternoon in your area.

 

[Valerie]

Ah I thought you've been to Paestum! But the ones in Sicily are surely also fantastic. The Metaponto ones were neglected for centuries and are impressive if you've not encountered other Greek ruins before. It's not that far off from Matera if you want to stop by (you won't need more than an hour to see it) but personally, I'd spend more time in Matera. The Sassi are much bigger than you think! Don't miss the museum in Piazza Ridola which has Carlo Levi's paintings (admission is only 1 euro or something ridiculously low like that)

 

[Anne]

My mother and I are still planning a trip to Italy to celebrate my upcoming ordination. Our hope is to be there for most of June month...at the moment, we're thinking a week (ish) in each of Florence and Naples, and the rest of the time roaming around Basilicata in a rental car. (And/or Puglia...although I don't want to stretch ourselves too thin. I'm sure our biggest problem, as always, will be narrowing down the possibilities.)

I've long been intrigued by Matera, so am quite certain that will be part of our itinerary...that's as solid as our plans are at this point! I'm sure I'll have lots of questions once we have our flights booked (next week, I hope) and I can get serious with our planning. For now, just wanted to say that this thread (and the One Week in Ostuni thread) are very helpful.

 

[Pauline]

We will be in Puglia and Basilicata next month! I will post during the trip in the Trip Reports forum. I am very excited about going to these new (to me) places!!