Berner Oberland Three Weeks in Lenk, Switzerland, September 2024

[ncp]

Ha! I’ve ordered the fish gelato in Italy instead of the peach using the same technique ;-)

 

[Pauline]

Saturday September 28, 2024​

Cold! High of 40F. Overcast. Some rain.

Today we huddled inside looking at the mountains through windows! It is beautiful with the heavy cloud over the mountains and fog in the valley, but I didn’t see a reason to go walking because it will be getting warmer starting tomorrow.

We drove into town for groceries. The Coop was packed. We only needed a few things so just dashed in and out. There was a small festival going on. A few blocks of the Main Street were blocked off and we saw booths. We should have stopped but it was too cold and wet. Lots of people were there.

This is what I am bringing home with us: Chocolate cake mix (impulse purchase), herbal tea, Swiss Alpine Herbs, toothpaste, cookies, chocolate, salt, and crackers. My Swiss food favs!

 

[Sandrac]

I'm really enjoying your trip report, Pauline! Looks so beautiful where you were.

 

[Pauline]

Sunday September 29, 2024​

Cold in the morning, 55F high, sunny, fresh snow on the mountains

Today we did the hike up to Siebenbrunnen, our favourite hike here. It is a bit of a climb - 1100feet (300m) in an hour - but you arrive in a magnificent valley with waterfalls. There is a restaurant up there too.

It was cold, but sunny, when we started, high 40sF, so we bundled up - sweater, fleece, neck warmers, wool hats, gloves. It feels like winter already!

We took the climb slowly. In our younger days we did the climb in 45 minutes but now it takes an hour. I did well on the hike so am pleased with that. Steve had to slow down for me.

This is a popular hike. When we got to the top the restaurant was almost full. They have a few cafe tables where people were sitting in the sun. They also have several long picnic-style tables which were almost full with people having lunch. We had our sandwiches on a bench by the falls.

It is two miles to the falls. We extended the walk by going out into the valley. The fresh snow on the rock mountains, which are very close here, made them stand out even more than usual. So beautiful!

We stopped at the restaurant for coffee on the way back, then did the descent slowly. I have a weak knee from a fall several years ago (hiking in Israel) and wear a knee support sleeve.

The walk was just over 3 hours, 5 miles, 1100ft ascent/descent. A wonderful day.

On the way up to Siebenbrunnen.

Pauline and Steve after the climb.

Siebenbrunnen, seven springs.

Walking further out in the valley.

Walking further out in the valley.

Mushroom!

 

[Pauline]

Monday September 30, 2024​

Sunny, windy and cool 58F high

This is our last good day before we leave Thursday morning. A storm is moving in with rain for the next few days.

Today was good but it was windy. We wanted to take the gondola and do a high level walk but it would be colder and more windy up there so we went to our old standby, walking along the river. We did 4 miles but we were both tired from yesterday’s climb. The mountains looked spectacular today.

It was sunny and warm enough to sit out on the balcony today. Usually I spend a lot of time out there but this trip has been colder and wetter than usual.

Can’t complain about the weather after seeing photos and videos of the destruction of Asheville NC and all the other places. We almost moved to Asheville 15 years ago but instead moved to Boulder CO and then ended up in England.

There has been rain and flooding in our part of the UK too. I saw photos today of flooding near Axminster which isn’t too far from Bridport where we live. I have a webcam set up in my garage and the dining room so I can check in on the house. Plus our neighbors look after things.

When we get home I’m getting a new iPhone. My current one is an iPhone XR! Old by Apple standards. Hopefully my photos will be better.

New snow on the mountains.

 

[Pauline]

Tuesday October 1, 2024​

Cloud, heavy rain, 55F high

October! It feels like December today! We haven’t worn half of the clothes I brought because it has been too cold! Good thing I brought clothes for cold weather.

No hiking today because it is too wet. We drove into town to get a few things for our last two days. We head out Thursday morning, driving up to Baden-Baden where it will be a bit warmer.

I am officially tired of the cheese sandwiches from the bakery now.

The neighboring farm. The deer are in the barn avoiding the heavy rain.

 

[Pauline]

Wednesday October 2, 2024​

Cool and sunny, 55F high

We did a last walk along the river this morning. The weather was lovely, sunny! I’ll miss these walks and the views of the mountains.

Tomorrow we drive to Baden-Baden, about 4 hours from here, for a five night stay. I’ve wanted to visit this town for years, since Jonathan told me about it. The forecast has a bit of rain but most days look good.

Thanks to everyone reading this! I’ll post about Baden-Baden in the Germany forum. Since we are only in Baden-Baden for a few days, I’ll keep posting in this thread. Now, back to packing up!

Leaves are turning. You can see Simmenfalle in the distance.

Crossing over the river. This water comes straight down from the mountains.

 

[Pauline]

Thursday October 3, 2024​

Overcast and rain, cold. Heavy rain on the drive. Rain in the evening.

We are in Baden-Baden. The big smoke compared to Lenk.

We had a last coffee and gipfel at Early Beck, our favourite cafe in Zweisimmen. When we said “see you next year” the woman who is usually working there said they are closing later this month. They only opened in this location a few years ago. She said it wasn’t busy enough. They have two cafes in Gstaad and two in Saanen still. I was hoping they would expand to Lenk! We will have to go to Saanen now.

We stopped at the Swiss Alpine Herbs factory store before leaving the valley.

The drive went well but there was a lot of rain. Our lunch was sandwiches from the Zweisimmen cafe sitting in the car at a rest area.

We checked into our apartment and it is lovely but it is a long way from the parking. The parking is underground in the same building, with an elevator but there are many hallways to get to the apartment. I was somewhat organised with the packing but we still had a lot to carry up.

The Schwartzwald Loft Apartments are in a remodeled cigarette factory. Part is a hotel, part is apartments. Four of the apartments are vacation rentals. I tried to book in here last year but they were full. This year they had a 5 night slot that worked perfect. Beautifully furnished and well equipped. No view of mountains - just buildings and a bit of the hills.

We walked out to get some takeout food but it was an hour wait at the Asian place we had picked so we went to our backup, an Indian restaurant. We got soaked in the heavy drizzle as we walked around a bit while the food was being prepared.

Zweisimmen.

Last coffee at the Early Beck cafe.

They have an Automat for when the shop is closed and you really need herbs.

Our apartment in Baden-Baden. Hey, the sun is out in this photo! Didn’t last long.

 

[BEERMAN]

Catching up on your trip, awesome!

 

[LauraE]

Hi, Pauline. Have enjoyed your trip summary! My three day stay in Lenk coincided with yours--I tried to keep an eye out for you during my walks, but for a small place, it's also quite spacious and my stay was more in town. I took many of your previous trips' tips to heart and enjoyed just wandering around, a hike to the Simmenfalle & Sibe Brunnen, and visiting the Early-Beck Cafe in Zweisimmen. (You were right, I wanted to like the local cafe in Lenk, but I, too, preferred the Early-Beck. So sad to hear they're closing that branch and simultaneously glad I was able to visit it. My lunch was delicious, the service so friendly, and the hazelnut/chestnut cookie was to die for!) I found it amusing that while on my visit I took the exact same pictures of non-waterfall items to show my friends as you had: the log pile, a particular self-serve farm store, and the gated house in Zweisimmen! Again, thanks for the introduction to the area. I've been over much of Switzerland, this was my first time to this beautiful valley.

 

[Pauline]

My three day stay in Lenk coincided with yours--I tried to keep an eye out for you during my walks, but for a small place, it's also quite spacious and my stay was more in town.

I am so happy to read how much you liked Lenk! We both love this area and keep returning. And I’m happy that my trip reports benefited someone. We’ve traveled much of Switzerland too and I don’t know why this area captured us, but it did. I hope you were there for the good weather days! Very funny about the photos!

Next time you are in the same place as me send me a message and we’ll meet up!

When I get home let’s start a thread about Switzerland in general and we can compare travel tips. Maybe you’ve been to Appenzell which I’m curious about.

 

[Pauline]

Friday October 4, 2024​

Rain most of the day, high 54F

This apartment has the best bed ever! And an interesting pillow that is narrow and hard foam but was really nice. The kitchen could have a bit more counter space though.

It was not a good day so we only went out for an hour or so to get some groceries. There is a nice natural foods store in the center of town. Closer to us is a good bakery. It is a chain and I saw others in town. We did not get rained on but it was starting just as we got back to the apartment.

The forecast looks good for the next few days. Today was a day off. Tomorrow our Baden-Baden time starts.

 

[LauraE]

I am so happy to read how much you liked Lenk! We both love this area and keep returning. And I’m happy that my trip reports benefited someone. We’ve traveled much of Switzerland too and I don’t know why this area captured us, but it did. I hope you were there for the good weather days! Very funny about the photos!

Next time you are in the same place as me send me a message and we’ll meet up!

When I get home let’s start a thread about Switzerland in general and we can compare travel tips. Maybe you’ve been to Appenzell which I’m curious about.

I was fortunate with the weather. No heavy rains until the day I flew home. As I was typing the above I remembered you asking me previously about which areas I liked. The lake areas of Luzern, Thun & Brienz and then mountainside Murren are probably my very favorite (the quiet spots, not the touristy ones.) Last year I spent a month in Switzerland, 5 days was in Appenzell and I was thinking that you would probably like that area very much. Went through some of lower Graubunden which surprised me--I like green pastures & mountainsides and expected it to be drier and rockier but it was very pretty.

 

[Pauline]

Saturday September 5, 2024​

Light overcast, cool, low 50sF

Today we explored the town. We walked a few neighborhood streets - elegant houses on streets that wind up forested hill sides. We walked along the river and past the Trinkhalle where I think you can get water from the springs. There was an antique fair going on and it was crowded so we didn’t go in. Then into the historic area which is small pedestrian streets. Up to the spas.

The Caracalla Spa has construction going on and the outdoor pools are closed.

The historic area was packed with shops, restaurants and people. Understandable because it is Saturday. There are some very high end shops. The spas and several wellness establishments are the draw here and the people who come must have a lot of time for shopping. I saw many gorgeous wool sweaters and coats in the windows.

It was that damp penetrating cold that I know so well from England so we headed back without going further on the river path stopping at a fabulous supermarket on the way. Markhalle is located on the top floor of a mall so you have to walk through all the clothes shops to find it but it is worth it. Everything is beautifully arranged and we spent a good hour looking at everything and buying treats. The bakery section had huge loaves of Italian bread that they sold sliced. You buy as many slices as you want. The chocolate section was huge.

Back at the apartment for a very late lunch and we called it a day.

So far I don’t love Baden-Baden. Too busy for a small town (pop 50,000). Too many shops, street after street of shops. But the weather isn’t great and it is the weekend, so that affects things. Tomorrow is forecast to be sunny and we will head out to do a hike.

The historic spa, Friedrichsbad.

The modern spa, Caracalla.

Huge trees and the Trinkhalle.

Treats.

 

[Pauline]

Sunday October 6, 2024​

Fog until 11am, then sun off and on, 58F high, felt cold

Now I love Baden-Baden!

Today was forecast to be sunny but we woke to fog. You could see that the sun would eventually break through so we set out as planned.

We drove 10 minutes to the Merkur Funicular station. The funicular station is on a hillside at the edge of the town. To get to it you drive up residential streets (with beautiful houses).

Google reviews warn that parking is full by 10am. We got there at 11 and there were only a few spots but later in the day we saw that people park along the roadside too, so lots of parking. There is a main lot by the funicular and two other lots just before.

The sun came out just as we parked. We did not take the funicular up the hill to a viewpoint and restaurant, but instead started out on part 2 of the Panorama trail that circles the town.

https://www.baden-baden.com/en/media/tours/panorama-trail

This is the easiest section at 5.5 miles, 220m ascent. We had thought we would take the bus to the start, then return by bus, but decided because of this iffy weather to drive and walk out and back on the trail.

The trail is fabulous! There were other people walking but it wasn’t crowded. It started in woods going through a wildlife preserve (saw no wildlife), then came out to a pretty hamlet, Eckhofe, then back into the woods and through an arboretum. Then along a sunny hilltop with views to the town below.

We had our lunch at that point and then turned around. We did 4 miles, 700ft ascent. The trail is very up and down, but only steep in one spot. We turned around at a spot where the trail goes downhill along a vineyard and through open fields. It looked beautiful! Next time we will walk point to point and use the buses (which run frequently).

There are a lot of trails up here and I’ve noticed a lot in town that lead up into the woods.

After the hike we walked to the Waldcafe and had homemade Black Forest cake and coffee. The cake was different than I’ve had before with half cake and half whipped cream. Very good. We sat outside with a lot of other hikers.

Seeing Baden-Baden from the woods and walking on this exceptional trail changed our minds on the town. Now we want to return. Baden-Baden is on the northern edge of the Black Forest and there are a lot of towns and trails to explore.

Hiking signs.

Eckhofe. A few houses and a chapel. Honey for sale.

Panorama Trail.

View to the Kloster Lichtenthal. We turned around here.

Black Forest cake in the Black Forest.

 

[Pauline]

Monday October 7, 2024​

Rain and heavy rain, warmer 68F high

Another wet day! We walked out to pick up a few food things to take home and for dinner and that was it. It cleared up for a minute in the after but then the rain started again. We had thought we would go out and do the river walk anyway but Steve has a sore foot! It is usually me who holds us back but today it was Steve. We watched YouTube videos about taping your metatarsal arch.

Tomorrow we drive 5hr30min to Arras. We will stay at the Ibis that we stayed at on the way out. Wednesday we drive to the tunnel and then home.

We did not have great weather but it was good enough and we had a great trip.

Three years ago right now is when I started to get sick. We were on week 2 of a 4 week trip to Lenk. Once the doctor figured out what it was (Giant Cell Arteritis, a rare form of Vasculitis) I started on a regime of corticosteroids. They save your life and ruin it at the same time. I finished the steroids last spring and it takes another year to recover. I’m still on another drug but it isn’t as harmful as steroids. My muscles are weakened from getting less exercise (I did as much as I could during that time but it was much less than I used to do) and I have some random pains. On the whole though I am much better.

All this to explain why we don’t do the hikes we used to do. We were never mountaineers but we could do more strenuous hikes than we do now. And we don’t explore as much because I get tired out. This trip was very good for me, like a wellness holiday - mountain air, good exercise, simple meals (except for that Black Forest Cake!), good company and conversation.

Chestnuts on a wet street.

Our neighbourhood.

Our apartment is in a remodelled cigarette factory.

 

[Georgia & Zig]

Zig and I are also super nervous about the election. We were able to vote early so we did and voted blue all the way! Thank you for supporting the Harris/Walz team!

 

[cindyldoe]

Pauline, I have yet to see a cow parade or encounter a roadside fridge with fresh cheese. Though I am vegan, I do eat cheese in Switzerland.

 

[BryanS]

Pauline, Your photo of "chestnuts" look more like buckeyes. The white area on the nut is the identifier. Go Buckeyes!

 

[Pauline]

Pauline, I have yet to see a cow parade or encounter a roadside fridge with fresh cheese. Though I am vegan, I do eat cheese in Switzerland.

Cow parades are only in September and October but they happen all over the country, in the mountain areas. I’ve seen them in Lenk and other towns in the valley and in Lauterbrunnen.

There is a woman on instagram who posts about bringing her sheep down in the Valais.

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She calls it Transhumance. In the Berner Oberland it is called Alpabfahrt. I don’t know where I picked up the term Cow Parade. Here is a recent post about her sheep moving down.

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The roadside and trail side self serve fridges selling cheese are very popular in the Lenk area. We see them as we drive up the Simmental Valley heading to Lenk. I’ve seen them on trails outside of Gstaad. But I don’t recall when I first noticed them. We’ve been regularly traveling to Switzerland since 1988 and we’ve been to many parts but I don’t remember seeing them in other areas. I’m sure they are in other areas. Even in England we have self serve eggs and vegetables but not in fridges. I’ve seen fridges selling drinks along long distance trails here. I’ll have to look into this.