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Campania & Amalfi Coast Traveling Along the Amalfi Coast

AMALFI COAST PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION OPTIONS

Italy’s beautiful Amalfi Coast is one of the most visited areas of the country, not just by Italians but also by persons from all over the world. The area also has a very extended tourist season: from April (or Easter) to the end of October. Driving is extremely challenging, and parking is both exorbitant and very hard to find. Tourists not used to driving a stick shift car in constant start-and-stop mode on narrow hairpin turns with steep grades risk damaging their vehicle, as I have personally witnessed. Moreover, the driver sees none of the beautiful coastline, because road hazards are non-ending and require maximum concentration. Fortunately, the Amalfi Coast has various methods of public transportation which can fit the budgets of just about everybody.

THE TRIED-AND-TRUE SITA BUS

The SITA buses which travel along the coastlines from Sorrento to Salerno and back provide the most continuous, uninterrupted service, year-round. These buses are the exclusive transportation option (apart from taxis, private car services and car rentals) during the winter months (November 1 through March 31), when there are no maritime services whatsoever.

SITA buses run roughly hourly throughout the day, from very early morning to late evening (although during the winter some routes stop around 19:30 or 20:00). During the peak of the summer season (mid-June through end of September), some popular routes run until midnight, or nearly so. Thus, even during the time of year when the boats and hydrofoils are running, the SITA buses remain very important for early morning, evening and late evening connections (such as returning to one’s hotel after dinner). On Sundays, there are usually fewer buses, to compensate for the lack of regular commuters.

One extremely common criticism of the SITA buses is that they are VERY VERY crowded, especially between Sorrento and Amalfi and between Amalfi and Ravello. At times, it’s not possible to board the bus (let alone find a seat), and sometimes the bus driver won’t even open the front door to let on more passengers if the bus is packed to its limit. In particular, it can be very difficult to board in Positano or Praiano going towards Amalfi (because the bus has already filled up in Sorrento) or from these two towns going in the opposite direction towards Sorrento (because the bus filled up in Amalfi). Consequently, it’s very useful to seriously consider taking the hydrofoil back to Sorrento from Positano (and even from Amalfi) in the late afternoon, or the privately-operated red sightseeing bus service (described below) when trying to board in Positano going in either direction. If boarding at the terminus stops in Sorrento (Circumvesuviana train station) or Amalfi (Piazza Gioia Flavio by the seaside), one has a much better chance of getting on and perhaps even getting a seat, if one acts very promptly and with determination.

Bus schedules typically change around the beginning of April, the middle of June, and the end of October. During the winter months, the buses stop service earlier in the evening, around 19:30 or 20:00. All seats on the SITA buses are unreserved. Bear in mind that bus schedules are often imprecise, because of the many traffic jams and occasional accidents and rockslides along the roadway which can cause big delays. Use a conservative time cushion if planning to connect to a train in either Salerno or Sorrento. Many, but not all, buses are air conditioned.

SITA Website - in Italian. They recommend the MOOVIT app. Google Maps also works well to find bus stops and times.

positano-2920.jpg

SITA bus going through Positano

SITA BUS TICKETS

The one real advantage of taking the SITA bus is that it is really “dirt cheap”. For example, Salerno/Amalfi costs 2.20 Euros; Amalfi/Ravello 1.20 Euros; Amalfi/Praiano or Praiano/Positano 1.20 Euros; Amalfi/Positano 1.80 Euros; Positano/Sorrento 1.80 Euros; and Amalfi/Sorrento 2.70 Euros. These are the current (April 2017) fares for single-use, one-way tickets, with no stopovers allowed. Fares have not increased in two years, and future increases are likely to be modest.

You must always validate the ticket immediately upon boarding the bus, by punching it in the little machine behind or adjacent to the driver’s seat. Once validated, it’s good until you reach your destination on that same bus (no connections are allowed).

There are other tickets which do allow for a very short break (to change buses), but they have short duration limits and can nearly be ignored by tourists, who typically want to spend a few hours in each locality.

For those tourists planning to do nearly a full day’s worth of bus travel along the Amalfi Coast, I highly recommend purchasing the 24-hr. unlimited ride ticket for 8 Euros, called the “COSTIERASITA”. This ticket is validated only upon first use on a bus, and you must write your name and date of birth in the spaces provided on the face of the ticket (to reduce the possibility of selling or gifting the ticket to a friend or stranger after having used it once or twice). Notice that because it is a 24-hr. ticket rather than a 1-day ticket, it will almost always be valid for parts of two days. You can look up the cost of point-to-point tickets to calculate the break-even point after which the 24-hr. ticket becomes worthwhile (as an aside, there is the additional advantage of not having to hunt around for separate point-to-point ticket sellers and storing the tickets on your person until ready for use).

Tickets are not sold on the SITA buses. You must purchase them at newsstands, tobacconists, bars and cafes nearest the bus stops. Many of these vendors display SITA bus logos on their glass door or windows. In Salerno and Sorrento, purchase the ticket from the newsstand inside the train station.

Place heavy luggage in the underfloor compartment of the bus (and don’t forget to retrieve it upon arrival).

positano-3407.jpg

Cancel your ticket in the orange box when you get on the bus

THE PRIVATELY-OPERATED RED SIGHTSEEING BUS

Fortunately, there is another bus alternative to the crowded SITA buses: the privately-operated red sightseeing bus which connects Sorrento-Positano-Amalfi, Amalfi-Ravello, and a few lesser routes. The buses run hourly from mid-April through mid-October, and are much more expensive (but more comfortable) than the SITA buses. A one-way ticket from Sorrento to either Positano or Amalfi costs 10 Euros; the leg between Amalfi and Ravello costs 5 Euros.

One thing to remember about this service is that there is no underfloor luggage compartment, so all luggage must fit under one’s seat. Apart from this limitation, it’s a great way to explore part of the Amalfi Coast, if one is willing to shell out more money. Note that between Salerno and Amalfi, there is only the SITA bus option for public land transportation.

You can purchase the ticket from the driver. All seats are unreserved.

City Sightseeing Bus - Sorrento

THE FERRY BOATS AND THE HYDROFOILS

The “Cadillac” (or the “Mercedes”) of transportation along the Amalfi Coast are the ferry boats and hydrofoils plying between Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento, usually from April 1 through October 31 (sometimes the period can be shortened slightly). Maritime transportation is much more expensive than the SITA bus, and the hydrofoils between Sorrento and Positano/Amalfi are particularly expensive. Moreover, service between Sorrento and Positano/Amalfi is spotty, and does not adequately provide coverage for the entire day.

Nevertheless, having these boats available provide a very useful method, for example, of returning to Sorrento in the late afternoon from both Amalfi and Positano and avoiding the crowded buses and the clogged roadway. Boat service between Salerno/Amalfi/Positano is more frequent, and indeed an additional late-afternoon crossing is typically added at 17:00 from Salerno to Amalfi/Positano, thereby providing a very useful connection from the incoming trains arriving from Naples and Rome, transporting persons wanting to get to the Amalfi Coast.

However, boats in the opposite direction (going to Salerno) do not leave early enough in the morning to connect to many morning trains to Naples and Rome. Consequently, early birds will need to take the SITA bus from Amalfi/Positano to Salerno, with buses starting at the crack of dawn.

BE AWARE THAT BOAT SERVICE IS SUBJECT TO CANCELLATION DUE TO BAD WEATHER. It is therefore prudent to check departure status the evening before your trip (if possible), or at least prior to the scheduled departure hour. If taking the ferry boat in Salerno after arriving by train, if you have a cell phone, call the information line to verify operational status if the weather is poor, as you may avoid taking an unnecessary 10-minute walk (each way) to reach the dock off of Piazza della Concordia, and possibly miss the next SITA bus bound for Amalfi from the square in front of the Salerno train station!

Purchase the boat ticket from the ticket kiosk at the docks in Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento. I discourage buying tickets online, and most of the time the boats do not sell out.

UPDATE 4/18/2017: Travelmar has expanded the seasonality of its ferry boat crossings between Salerno and Cetara/Maiori and Minori, and these services are now operational.

Travelmar (Salerno/Amalfi/Positano/Cetara/Maiori/Minori)
Alilauro (Sorrento/Positano/Amalfi)

NOTE: In Salerno, use only the Concordia Dock, which is 800 meters from the Salerno train station. UNLESS your destination is Capri, ignore the boats operated by Alicost which dock at the Manfredi Dock, which is over 2 kilometers due west from the train station, and not comfortably reachable on foot.

TRAVELING TO THE AMALFI COAST FROM ROME OR RETURN?

One of the most frequently asked questions is “what is the best way to get from/to Rome and Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, etc. This is a complex topic for which a separate travel note is justified, so I’ll provide only the most brief outline here. Apart from an exorbitant private transfer, which will cost around 400 Euros between Rome and Positano or Amalfi, consider these possible solutions:

1. BETWEEN ROME AND SORRENTO. Take a reserved high-speed or fast train (Trenitalia or Italo Treno) from Roma Termini or Roma Tiburtina to Napoli Centrale, then connect to the half-hourly unreserved Circumvesuviana commuter train which leaves from the underground platforms at Napoli Centrale Station (called “Napoli Garibaldi”) and takes about 65 minutes, with many stops. Beware that the Circumvesuviana is often crowded and plagued by pickpockets, and there are no dedicated luggage racks. Some railcars are not air-conditioned, and all seats are unreserved.

A much more comfortable option (from mid-April through mid-October only) is to take the reserved CAMPANIA EXPRESS tourist train, which leaves several times per day from the Napoli Garibaldi underground platforms. Fares are higher, but you get a seat and air conditioning, and it’s much less crowded.

There are also several expensive hydrofoils from Napoli Molo Beverello to Sorrento, but I don’t particularly recommend these for purely practical, logistical reasons: you must take a taxi, tram or bus to get to Molo Beverello from Napoli Centrale, then take another bus uphill once you dock in Sorrento. Taking into account the extra time and expense, I find it difficult to justify taking the hydrofoil if one arrives in Naples at the train station, compared to the cheap and frequent Circumvesuviana train (or especially to the more expensive CAMPANIA EXPRESS train). The main reason to take the hydrofoil is for the scenery, and because there are usually no pickpockets (but beware getting to the port by tram or bus!). However, if you were staying in a Naples hotel near the dock, it would be a sensible alternative to the train.

Note that there is also a direct long-distance bus service year-round from Roma Tiburtina bus depot (300 meters from the Tiburtina train/metro station) to Sorrento, which is inexpensive but takes longer than the high-speed train. There are only one or two buses per day in each direction. They are operated by Marozzi lines.

From June through September, one of the buses from Rome continues on to Positano, Praiano and Amalfi. If you have mobility issues, you may find taking this bus preferable to the two trains described earlier. You usually do not need to reserve seats for this bus, just buy the tickets at the bus depot when you get there.

Trenitalia - train
Italotreno - train
Marozzi - bus
Campania Express 2017 IT - in Italian, train

2. BETWEEN ROME AND POSITANO. From April through October, take a reserved high-speed or fast through train (Trenitalia or Italo Treno) to SALERNO (not Naples), then walk 800 meters to the dock off of Piazza della Concordia to take the ferry boat (which stops briefly in Amalfi). The walk takes a full 10 minutes, but the terrain is flat and you can easily drag your luggage on wheels.

I do not recommend buying tickets for the boat online. Buy them at the ticket kiosk by the dock. That gives you maximum flexibility (also if the boat is cancelled for bad weather, and you need to take the bus).

From November through March, there is no ferry boat service, so you must use land transportation exclusively. Follow the procedures for getting to Sorrento above, then connect to the SITA bus from Sorrento to Positano at the terminus stop in front of the Circumvesuviana station. Be quick to board, as there is often a queue.

You could also elect to take a taxi from Sorrento to Positano, which will cost at least 60 Euros. From June through September, there is one daily Marozzi bus direct from Rome TIburtina bus station to Positano, Praiano and Amalfi (stopping in Sorrento)

Travelmar
SITA Buses
Marozzi - bus

3. BETWEEN ROME AND PRAIANO. From April through October, follow the procedures for getting to Salerno above, then take the ferry boat to Amalfi, then the SITA bus (or a taxi) to Praiano. From November through March, follow the procedures for getting to Sorrento above, then take the SITA bus in Sorrento which goes all the way to Amalfi, but stops in Praiano (you could also use this solution year-round).

4. BETWEEN ROME AND AMALFI. From April through October, take a reserved high-speed or fast train to Salerno (Trenitalia or Italo Treno), then walk 800 meters to the dock off of Piazza della Concordia to take the ferry boat to Amalfi. From November through March, take the SITA bus instead of the ferry boat. It departs from the square in front of the Salerno train station. Purchase the bus ticket at the newsstand inside the station.

Travelmar
SITA Buses

5. BETWEEN ROME AND VIETRI SUL MARE, CETARA, MAIORI, MINORI AND ATRANI. The most practical solution is to follow the procedures for getting to Amalfi above, then take the SITA bus from Salerno to your destination. While you could also take the ferry boat to Amalfi (April through October only) and then backtrack by bus or taxi to Atrani, Minori or Maiori, it is probably not worth the additional time and cost. Do take note however that there are a few ferry boats from Salerno to Cetara, Maiori and Minori which might be an alternative to the SITA bus if the limited schedules work for you.

Travelmar
SITA Buses

[ links updated 2021-04 ]
 
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