Traveling in the Lot

[Parigi]

Mon dieu, merci ! I have stayed about half a dozen times, or more, in the village of Sireuil off Les Eyzies,and I have never heard of, or passed by, the Other St Cirq.And I do remember Ms St Cirq years ago on Slowtrav. Until today, I had also assumed she meant "my" St Cirq.To confuse us thoroughly, Pauline mentioned her, but showed a pic of "my" St Cirq.As for my St Cirq, it is also my fave village of France. I think I know every village along the Lot between Cahors and Cajarc, as well as every village along the Célé between the confluence with the Lot to near Figeac. They are my fave waterways of France. And basically it is just about impossible to find an ugly house along the rivers. I did try, I was so fed up with the beauty, lol.

 

[Ann]

Question for you, Dana. Have you ever eaten at Le Gindreau, in Saint-Médard, about 20 minutes or so from Puy-l'Eveque? A Fodorite foodie said they had their best meal in the Lot there. Thanks and aloha, Ann

 

[Dana]

Question for you, Dana. Have you ever eaten at Le Gindreau, in Saint-Médard, about 20 minutes or so from Puy-l'Eveque? A Fodorite foodie said they had their best meal in the Lot there. Thanks and aloha, Ann

Oh yes! We've been going for years. Le Gindreau is heavenly, especially for Sunday lunch when you can sit out under the trees on the terrace. Alexis Pelissou, the longtime chef/owner with the glorious moustache, is no longer there as of last year, but his replacement is excellent.

 

[Dana]

Our dear friends Dany and Trish live just outside the Lot in Lot-et-Garonne, but for anyone visiting the area who wants to make a really good cassoulet, this is how it's done (although reading this will probably be enough to make you want to head to the nearest restaurant or can opener, although it just won't be the same!)
http://tasteslikeatomato.blogspot.fr/2014/04/normal-0-0-1-797-4545-u-37-9-5581-11.html

 

[Dana]

A dear friend in the Lot was let down by someone and is now desperately looking for a cat sitter/s in 17-30 August. Her house, a peaceful converted stone barn in a little hamlet by St-Chamarand (46310)- easy to find on google maps- is a good base for discovering the northern Lot-Dordogne area. The nearest airport is Souillac Brive with direct flights from London City; the nearest train station is Gordon,or it's just under 2 hours north of Toulouse. She has Wifi and FreeSat, 2 bedrooms, one with a queensize bed, one with a Napolean bed, one full bath/shower with WC, one WC. The cat is very sweet and easy to care for, too!

 

[Pauline]

I volunteered Steve and I for this but it looks like she found someone.

We are good with cats but pretty useless at looking after a house.

 

[Ann]

I'm reviving this thread to get some advice about the area around Puy l'Eveque, since we'll be spending 2 weeks there in May -- look forward to meeting you, Dana, if possible. We've spent many weeks in the Dordogne, Quercy, and the Aveyron, and to the west in the Gers (Gascony) but never any time in the part of the Lot River Valley near Puy l'Eveque. I'm familiar with highlights like the Château de Bonaguil, but any advice about small towns within an hour's drive or so, sights, nice drives, restaurants, etc. would be much appreciated. Aloha, Ann

 

[Dana]

Looking forward to meeting you, Ann! The Lot valley doesn't the bells and whistles of the Dordogne, but there's plenty to see in May, even if you've already done our five star sites (Rocamadour, the Gouffre de Padirac, the Grotte du Pech Merle, the aforementioned St-Cirq-La-Popie). The markets are in full sensory wonderfulness (the Thursday market in Libos, just west of here in Lot-et-Garonne is the biggest and most cosmopolitan; the one just east in Prayssac on Friday is also gorgeous and perfect if you want something a bit recherché. Prayssac also has a fine collection of dolmens and megalithic mysteries...

Cahors, with its medieval quarter, cathedral, Pont Valenté, under-visited Musée Henri Martin (who spent his summers painting in nearby La Bastide du Vert) and secret gardens, has enough sites to fill a day (and an excellent market outside Les Halles on Wednesdays and Saturdays...) Take the scenic route back to Puy l'Eveque through the vineyards- via Grezels, Albas, Luzech).

Along with the Château de Bonaguil, aren't far from the Chateau de Biron and the medieval bastide towns of Lot-et-Garonne (Monflanquin, Villereal, Monpazier etc)

The Gindreau at St-Medard remains the best restaurant in the area. I did write blogs about our two local favourites, the ferme auberge La Serpt in Frayssent-le-Gelat and La Terrasse in Grezels. Another good one is La Récreation in Les Arques (which also has a great Romanesque church and the Zadkine museum).


South of here is the Domaine de Saint-Géry, run by an insanely meticulous 'peasant chef' named Patrick Duler, where a friend of ours works as a 'ham tuner' (they even won the world ham championships last May in Barcelona!) They cost a fortune! He also raises truffles, makes his own foie gras etc etc etc: you can't just show up, but you can book a meal on line.

I'm sure I'll think of some more, but here's a start!

 

[Ann]

A great start, Dana -- many thanks. This seems to be an area outside the scope of awareness of most Americans, and even French guidebooks give it short shrift. We have done all the five-star sites, some twice -- like Pech Merle and St-Cirq-La-Popie, which we re-visited when we were in the Aveyron in October 2013 (once in Rocamadour may have been once too often!). We will certainly return to La Recreation and will try Le Gindreau plus the ferme auberges you suggest -- and yes, we do love duck in all its forms. My research turned up a couple of restaurants in PLE, Les Dodus en Ville and Côté Lot. Any thoughts about them? As we say here in Hawaii, "mahalo nui loa."

 

[Ann]

Dana, I wonder if you know the restaurant at the Hostellerie de Goujounac, described as a "little gem" here --https://loren24250.wordpress.com/2013/06/19/soggy-start-but-a-sunny-and-yummy-finish/

 

[Dana]

Ann, I haven't been to the Hostellerie since the new owners took over at least a decade ago so can't really say. It was always a very cute place, though. For a while they were doing an Indonesian buffet one day a week, which is quite exciting for these parts..ooo, just checked, looks like they still are!

 

[Ann]

Thanks, Dana -- what about the places in PLE that I mentioned in my post on Monday? Or any other places in PLE that you'd recommend? Thanks so much for the help!

 

[Dana]

Well, hmm. PLE certainly has no lack of restaurants. All are okay but none exactly dazzle—their main advantage is you can walk to them! Coté Lot has pretty views over the river and most pretentions, but can be uneven. Same with the Dodus. David and Rosie at the Café Pukeko do a good burger, desserts and espresso. Le Pigeonnier does crêpes in a pretty setting, although it may have changed hands this winter. Both have fine views over the river back towards the village. There's the Medieovale (Chez Lulu) on the Grand Rue that is reliable, too.

Unfortunately you are coming too early for the marché gourmand—every Wednesday in summer when the locals set up stalls along the river, which is fun and cheap. and good!

My problem is I live with a brilliant chef who can't see the point in going out to eat while we're here at home unless it's to a place where the food is better than chez nous, or they make something he doesn't know how to cook!

 

[Ann]

Thanks, Dana, you're a lucky lady to have a resident chef! We'll probably eat out mostly at lunch when we're out sight-seeing and then chez nous in the evening, taking advantage of the wonderful market produce -- and cans of foie gras and gesiers and confit! BTW, your advice is much appreciated.

 

[Joan M]

I have stayed with a friend in her house near St. Cirq Lapopie several times and one of my favorite things to do is to hike the stretch of the Lot between Bouziès and St. Cirq. Where the tow path was cut into the cliff there is a beautiful basrelief carving. Scroll down on this to see a picture http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?page_id=369516
It is not a difficult hike and I highly recommend it.

 

[artnbarb]

I'm "watching" this thread, meaning I get notified when there are new posts, but how do I bookmark it? I've bookmarked threads in the past, but can't figure out how to do it now!

 

[Pauline]

I'm "watching" this thread, meaning I get notified when there are new posts, but how do I bookmark it? I've bookmarked threads in the past, but can't figure out how to do it now!

I think you bookmark posts, not threads. There is a bookmark link at the bottom of each post.

 

[artnbarb]

Found it! Thanks!

 

[Parigi]

I have stayed with a friend in her house near St. Cirq Lapopie several times and one of my favorite things to do is to hike the stretch of the Lot between Bouziès and St. Cirq. Where the tow path was cut into the cliff there is a beautiful basrelief carving. Scroll down on this to see a picture http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/
doc/page/?page_id=369516
It is not a difficult hike and I highly recommend it.

We just came back from 2 perfect weeks in the Dordogne-Lot.
I love that tow path. This time it was our 9th time staying in the village St Cirq Lapopie, and we don't need to go back to many of the sights nearby, lovely as they are, but we always go back for a walk on the two path. (It's not a hike. It's a walk! lol.)

As St Cirq becomes more and more popular, I highly recommend that one stays inside the village instead of commuting in and out of it. In that sense it is like Venice. When you make it a day trip, you come and go with the whole tourist blob, which is not the best way to enjoy it. But when you live there, in the morning (until 10:30, 11am) and the evening (after 6pm) the village, where every house is jaw-droppingly beautiful, is practically deserted and belongs to you. Even the cats come out and reclaim the vertical country roads.

We chanced upon a couple of heat-wave days. Our solution was to hang out in the nice little beach at the bottom of the village (where the two path comes out of), or … a walk on the tow path which is always shaded and cool.

I stayed in this lovely house and can totally recommend it.
Rançon de la gloire is that the view from there is so breathtaking that day-trippers tend to stop at our gate and screech their awe.
http://www.gites-de-france-lot.fr/fr/reservation-en-ligne/saint-cirq-lapopie_GR2292V_3_9_0_.htm

 

[Pauline]

@Parigi if you get a chance, could you post a review of that gite in our France Vacation Rental reviews? It looks like a great place, but it also looks like it is booked for most of this year and all of 2016!