Agriturismo recommendations?

[BEERMAN]

We walked to Rapallo from SML last year, it is nice. It would be easy to return to that "perfect" area...but expanding our search a bit. Sanremo is "technically" outside of our range, we have been to Nice, Eze, Monaco...that whole stretch of coastline is beautiful.

Portovenere is definitely on our day trip list. Looking at lodgings there, but day tripping by train doesn't appear convenient. We have pinned 2 places in Cinque with parking....not sure yet, we have hiked the villages in the past and it might be fun to day trip outside of Cinque Terre and return for the sunset/evenings after the crowds have left??

 

[Alpinista]

Is Sestri Levante on your list? Might be worth a look. Also agree with idea of CT in the evenings. Should be lots of nice restaurant views (on heated patios?).

Just a note that the jellyfish spawning season is in April and the medusa eggs foul the water and beaches -- first time we saw, thought it was a huge oil slick until we got down on the beach and found it literally covered in egg sacs.

 

[Ian Sutton]

I wonder whether Corniglia might be a good option with a car, as it's the one of the 5 villages located high up, so the road more important to it than boat and rail.

In addition, it should make the higher paths (with much less tourists) more appealing. For me the crowds grated more on the paths, than in the villages themselves, giving them a 'tourist conveyor belt' feel.

_________________

Now here's an alternative suggestion for Liguria (or indeed west Piemonte). The idea is centred around a train we never did get to travel on, but very much wanted to: 'The train of wonders' between Cuneo (pronounced Coon-ee-o) and Venimiglia on the Ligurian coast. The train passes through mountains, including using a loop to gain/lose height, and also passes through France before returning to Italy

A Link With the Mediterranean - Railway Wonders of the World

A link with the Mediterranean - remarkable railway engineering in southern Europe.

www.railwaywondersoftheworld.com

Which end to stay (and which to day trip)?
- We like quirky Cuneo, and have stayed there twice. The central area is easy to walk, and there's good food there, from the restaurants through to the pair of weekly markets (one had small tractors for sale - any market that has tractors feels a proper market to me!). As you'd have a car, I'd very much recommend https://www.tettogarrone.it/it/ whose owner is a passionate advocate for the region and loves to help suggest day trips etc. It's a working farm, majoring on hazelnuts (which do indeed go into Nutella) in a quiet rural area, but only a short drive from Cuneo. There's a shared kitchen available, where I cooked and shared some porcini fried in butter with some other guests.

- We've not (yet) been to Ventimiglia, nor indeed one other strong attraction nearby 'Hanbury Gardens', which I first came across during Italian language studies! Bordighera and San Remo in range as well

 

[BEERMAN]

Sestri Levante is a current maybe....interesting about the jellies, I will have a bathing suit but in April I think just for the hot springs!!

Corniglia has options, but we've climbed those steps from the train station before ha! There are options in/around each village that are a comfortable walk from the train and town centers, I know the 3 hour drive from Pienza would likely be 6-8 hours by the time we stop here and there...

Cueno sounds interesting in Piemonte, but we've decided to return to Guarene for a couple nights. Cueno is one hour away and depending on our driving route it could be a day stop? have to read up on Cueno!

Our daughter is home tonight, so we are making fresh pasta for cacio e pepe and we'll open a Nebbiolo from our last trip, we have Italy on the brain right now!! I really appreciate the helpful and informative contributions going on here!

 

[Ian Sutton]

FWIW we did drive from Cuneo to Castino once. A longer day trip than we'd prefer, but doable, on good roads. That said, whilst I'm singing the praises of Cuneo, I think there will be easier day trips from Guarene.

 

[joe]

If you are indeed considering a change of scenery and wouldn't mind leaving the coast, then I heartily second Ian's recommendation for Cuneo and the surroundings. We've been there twice (actually both times stayed at the agriturismo Ian mentioned, indeed was a great stay for us). For you, @BEERMAN, there is the added advantage of a great beer scene :

Open Baladin Cuneo

La birra è l’elemento centrale attorno al quale ruota l’anima di Baladin Cuneo: un banco di mescita importante di oltre 9 metri che ospita 32 spine.

www.baladin.it

The town itself is beautiful (sort of a small Torino), has a great market and huge piazza, and of course goes without saying that it's a showcase for all of that region's food products. You have three beautiful valleys close at hand - Valle Maira, Valle Grana and Valle Stura - that make for scenic drives and hikes.

 

[BEERMAN]

we already have Guarene booked in our itinerary, of course we'll make a couple day trips from there.

We haven't decided on our Liguria homebase(s) yet? if we stay near or east of Genoa our route to Guarene is different than if we choose near Finale Ligure. I also have to wrap my head around the routes from Pienza to the coast, heading towards Cecina looks interesting but is the drive really going to be scenic? Cecina to Lerici is it "coastal scenic"? my guess is the inland route passing Florence-Lucca is probably makes the most sense?

As you can probably tell we don't mind reasonable road trips, reasonable to us is keeping it under 200 miles and preferably scenic. We usually make 1-2 stops during these hops and depending on what we see that can easily double a mapquest estimate. We are early risers and since the check in times at our next destination is usually mid-afternoon we take our time.

 

[Pauline]

Don't forget Levanto, the larger town north of the Cinque Terre. We've visited a few times and most recently spent 2 weeks there. Easy drive in and out. It has a train station.

 

[Pauline]

Since you are staying in Pienza (I love that town) maybe the restaurant Latte di Luna is still operating? It used to be fabulous. But it has been awhile since we've been there. Also I liked the caffe just outside the city walls.

 

[BEERMAN]

Since you are staying in Pienza (I love that town) maybe the restaurant Latte di Luna is still operating? It used to be fabulous. But it has been awhile since we've been there. Also I liked the caffe just outside the city walls.

Levanto is on our list of maybes..........

and thanks, I'll put Latte di Luna in my notes! 5-6 years ago we walked into Pienza at 3pm starving, restaurants and cafes were closed....but the owner and family of La Terrazzo were relaxing and took pity on us!! they served up a great lunch! Views from our terrace table were great, owner pointed out some must sees for our drive out, including the "Gladiator road" and Church of the Madonna. If their restaurant is still open we must go back, we only spent 2 hours in the town.

 

[GailS]

I'd second Latte di Luna (although it has probably been about 4 years since we were there). Pre-pandemic we would base in Montalcino annually and often dropped into Pienza for lunch here. Also consider trying La Porta in nearby Monticchiello.

 

[ncp]

Another vote for Latte de Luna as well as la porta. We drove once from Volterra (well worth a visit for Roman and Etruscan stuff) to Siena, not far from Pienza and that drive took you through some spectacular scenery. Would be longer than the autostrada past Florence and Lucca but much more interesting if you have the time.

 

[BEERMAN]

Another vote for Latte de Luna as well as la porta. We drove once from Volterra (well worth a visit for Roman and Etruscan stuff) to Siena, not far from Pienza and that drive took you through some spectacular scenery. Would be longer than the autostrada past Florence and Lucca but much more interesting if you have the time.

"spectacular scenery"...the extra hour would probably be worth it! There is also a southerly course I'm looking at, it goes to Grosetto then north along the coast. I think we would have to stay closer to Lerici if either of these courses are chosen....

 

[Alpinista]

If you add Grosetto to your route, take a look at Saturnia for the natural spa you mentioned earlier as being an interest of your wife's. Not sure how much wandering about you're building in, but so many options out there. So much fun to plan......

 

[BEERMAN]

If you add Grosetto to your route, take a look at Saturnia for the natural spa you mentioned earlier as being an interest of your wife's. Not sure how much wandering about you're building in, but so many options out there. So much fun to plan......

Saturnia does look pretty cool and April crowds would be reduced, but probably not convenient this trip. Bagni San Filippo is 30 minutes from Pienza so that may happen? This thermal sounds interesting because there are no amenities which means fewer people I'd assume? without public showers I also assume we'll be driving back to Pienza to shower the sulfer smell off! has anyone been to San Filippo?

 

[GailS]

Bagno Vignoni is a bit closer to Pienza as well.

 

[Alpinista]

Bagno Vignoni is a bit closer to Pienza as well.

Be aware that the photos that pop up of the huge thermal pool in the center of Bagno Vignoni are not the public area -- that pool is closed off. There is a thermal area in Parco dei Mulini over the hill from the main square that is available. We have not gone to that park in our visits when we stay at the Albergo Le Terme, so can't offer first-hand experience.

We would highly recommend the restaurant at the hotel if you do choose to go to Bagno Vignoni.

 

[BEERMAN]

Be aware that the photos that pop up of the huge thermal pool in the center of Bagno Vignoni are not the public area -- that pool is closed off. There is a thermal area in Parco dei Mulini over the hill from the main square that is available. We have not gone to that park in our visits when we stay at the Albergo Le Terme, so can't offer first-hand experience.

We would highly recommend the restaurant at the hotel if you do choose to go to Bagno Vignoni.

I'm not sure where I saw it, but they had drained the pool in town center, assume general maintenance. It's confusing to research because you'll read that soaking in the pool is allowed, yet not one picture of someone soaking in the town center. The lower pool outside of town is said to not be very warm? We might just swing by, let you know if it's warm ;-)

 

[Alpinista]

I'm not sure where I saw it, but they had drained the pool in town center, assume general maintenance. It's confusing to research because you'll read that soaking in the pool is allowed, yet not one picture of someone soaking in the town center. The lower pool outside of town is said to not be very warm? We might just swing by, let you know if it's warm ;-)

We were last there in mid-September and large town center pool was intact, but has always appeared to be permanently closed for use.

 

[Paul Chebator]

A bit more than an agriturismo, but we highly recommend Villa le Prata about 4 km outside of Montalcino.
https://villalepratawineresort.com/en/.
It’s is a working Brunello vineyard with two dynamic hosts in Anna Victoria and Bernardo. Recently refurbished rooms and restaurant.