Lisa in Ottawa
500+ Posts
Enjoying your trip report as I always do. I love all the little details. The pics are wonderful.
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Pauline
Forums Admin
Warm (high 60sF) and sunny today (after a cloudy start). Cold weather arrives tomorrow when the temps will be low 50s and rain is expected. The weather improves again next week.
Today we spent at "home". After going to the cafe for an excellent espresso, we walked out from the village to a church outside of town and around the countryside a bit on a route Valerie showed us. It was lovely walking in the sunshine and there were no cars on the lanes. The only person we saw was a local farmer ploughing under his rows of trees (walnut trees?). We got back to town before the shops closed and got some nice fruit and vegetables for lunch and dinner.
Lunch at home and a nap, then reading, knitting a toy for the cat, and sitting out in the sun. We had intended to drive out somewhere in the afternoon, but gave up on that.
Around 6pm we walked up to the bakery for bread (and two pieces of vegan pizza - makes the perfect appetizer for dinner). We walked to the car to get something then decided it was so nice out we should do another walk. Our morning walk was 3 miles and we did another 2.5 miles. Just walking to the car and back is .5 miles, so it is easy for us to get our 3 miles a day.
This time we walked out on another road. Trivigno sits on top of a hill and the roads out from it either climb more or go downhill, and have wonderful views over the valley. We had planned a circular walk, but turned around because of loose, barking dogs on the road (with no owner in sight). We've taken to walking with stones in our hands in case the dogs are not friendly. These guys were probably okay, but we don't know them and I am nervous around big dogs, so we avoided them.
Walking on the road back to Trivigno.
Another view back to Trivigno.
We left home a week ago today and I was ready for a day of nothing. I think my cold benefited from the rest today. It is almost gone (if it is a cold!).
We only have five days left - we leave on Thursday for Spoleto.
Today we spent at "home". After going to the cafe for an excellent espresso, we walked out from the village to a church outside of town and around the countryside a bit on a route Valerie showed us. It was lovely walking in the sunshine and there were no cars on the lanes. The only person we saw was a local farmer ploughing under his rows of trees (walnut trees?). We got back to town before the shops closed and got some nice fruit and vegetables for lunch and dinner.
Trivigno church.
Lunch at home and a nap, then reading, knitting a toy for the cat, and sitting out in the sun. We had intended to drive out somewhere in the afternoon, but gave up on that.
Around 6pm we walked up to the bakery for bread (and two pieces of vegan pizza - makes the perfect appetizer for dinner). We walked to the car to get something then decided it was so nice out we should do another walk. Our morning walk was 3 miles and we did another 2.5 miles. Just walking to the car and back is .5 miles, so it is easy for us to get our 3 miles a day.
This time we walked out on another road. Trivigno sits on top of a hill and the roads out from it either climb more or go downhill, and have wonderful views over the valley. We had planned a circular walk, but turned around because of loose, barking dogs on the road (with no owner in sight). We've taken to walking with stones in our hands in case the dogs are not friendly. These guys were probably okay, but we don't know them and I am nervous around big dogs, so we avoided them.
One of the streets in the village.
We left home a week ago today and I was ready for a day of nothing. I think my cold benefited from the rest today. It is almost gone (if it is a cold!).
We only have five days left - we leave on Thursday for Spoleto.
- Half a day in Potenza (capital of Basilicata and nearby).
- One more day in the park doing a hike on trails and visiting a couple of the towns (Accentura, Oliveto Lucano).
- A day on the Basilicata coast at Maratea. This is a long drive and could possibly get cancelled.
- Maybe a day up at Monticchio Lake, near Melfi, where we can go walking.
- Another visit to Castelmezzano? Definitely drive up to Pietrapertosa, the town the zipline from Castelmezzano goes to. This is close by so might be good to do the day before we leave so we have time to get packed up.
Pauline
Forums Admin
Today was our bad weather day. Rain on and off. Heavy cloud sitting over the hills. We spent the day reading and keeping the cat company. We went out in the late afternoon for groceries.
I love the shops in this village. The mushrooms I got a couple of days ago from the Fruit and Vegetable shop were fabulous. Yesterday I got a huge cauliflower - half of that was last night's dinner. Today broccoli. Broccoli soup for dinner tonight with fresh bread from the bakery.
The small supermarket has a huge selection of things. They even sell toasters. Maybe these will become popular here, or maybe his toasters have been on the shelf a long time. Valerie doesn't have one ...
He also has Pocket Coffee even though the season is over for them (they are not sold in summer). I had Valerie buy some for us a month ago, but I did buy some more.
The weather is supposed to return to warm and sunny tomorrow. I am mostly feeling better, but now Steve has my cold. What a pair we are!
I love the shops in this village. The mushrooms I got a couple of days ago from the Fruit and Vegetable shop were fabulous. Yesterday I got a huge cauliflower - half of that was last night's dinner. Today broccoli. Broccoli soup for dinner tonight with fresh bread from the bakery.
The small supermarket has a huge selection of things. They even sell toasters. Maybe these will become popular here, or maybe his toasters have been on the shelf a long time. Valerie doesn't have one ...
He also has Pocket Coffee even though the season is over for them (they are not sold in summer). I had Valerie buy some for us a month ago, but I did buy some more.
The weather is supposed to return to warm and sunny tomorrow. I am mostly feeling better, but now Steve has my cold. What a pair we are!
Small supermarket in Trivigno.
Main Street.
Doorway.
BryanS
100+ Posts
Pauline, Sorry to hear you and Steve are having issues with colds. It can definitely get chilly at night once the sun goes down, since Trivigno is at 700+ meters.
Lucano's friend Micio, the black and white one that hangs around with him, is definitely skinnier and more of what most of the cat in the village look like.
I love the photos. Tell everyone I said "ciao" - "Bryan dice ciao"
Lucano's friend Micio, the black and white one that hangs around with him, is definitely skinnier and more of what most of the cat in the village look like.
I love the photos. Tell everyone I said "ciao" - "Bryan dice ciao"
Lisa in Ottawa
500+ Posts
Love photos of the village.
Pauline
Forums Admin
Sunny and warm today, temps in mid 60sF, cooler up in the mountains where we went. A beautiful day. We drove into the park again to try another hike. This one was not far from the one we did a few days ago. On that previous trip the woman at the park information office recommended both hikes, but warned us that this hike was blocked about half way through (Monte Croccia Walk, Sentiero 705, 5.83km, easy, 3 hours). She told us where to walk out to and turn around.
The start of this hike, on the road between the park headquarters and Oliveto Lucano, was easy to find. There were signs, maps and clear trail markers. We started up the trail and soon got to Petre de la Mola, the Basilicata "Stonehenge". Prehistoric people used the rocks that were there and carved them to create something that tracked the sun. It looked like a rocky area in the woods but you could see that some of them had been carved. Not as impressive as Stonehenge, but still interesting.
From there we walked on through beautiful woods and meadows. We followed a low wall remaining from an ancient city.
We had our sandwiches at the turnaround point - a viewpoint where we could see for miles and miles over the mountains. We could see a few hilltop villages. So, we didn't turn around. I don't know why. Did we think she was lying to us? The trail was well marked and made its way down the hillside. It got more and more steep, to the point where I thought there was no way we could easily go back if the path was blocked. We kept going. The woods were beautiful. We got to a larger trail and turned onto it (as the instructions said to do). And guess what? The trail was blocked.
We turned around but there was no way I was doing that climb. I was using the park app on my iPhone and it showed us where we were. I could see that the larger trail we were on went back to the main road to a place where we had stopped earlier thinking it might be our trail start. So we walked back to the main road and then had a very steep one mile walk on the road. I didn't remember it was that steep when we drove it.
The whole walk was 3.58 miles and took us over 3 hours. A personal best for slowness. But we loved the walk. If it had not been blocked off, it would have been an incredible walk (we only did 1/3 of it before the path was blocked). If we were really ambitious we could have done it in the other direction. I am not sure why it was blocked.
We drove through the park, passing through Oliveto Lucano (didn't stop, it was around 3:30 and everything was shut - but I don't think it is a large town). The roads in the park are not good. There are many potholes and areas where the road is sinking. Most are marked by red tape, so you don't drive into them.
We went back to the main highway and drove up to a large hill town that we could see on our walk - Tricarico. We had seen the sign for the town when were driving to Matera the other day and it said Arab and Norman ruins.
Tricarico is much larger than Trivigno, but not that large. There is a modern part and an old part. Wikipedia says it has the best preserved medieval center in Lucania (that's what they call this area). There is a Norman tower, two other historic towers, a Ducal Palace. Looks like we missed some Roman ruins outside the town (Civita). Maybe we will go back. We walked around the town, stopped for coffee and cake, then drove home. Here are some town photos.
The start of this hike, on the road between the park headquarters and Oliveto Lucano, was easy to find. There were signs, maps and clear trail markers. We started up the trail and soon got to Petre de la Mola, the Basilicata "Stonehenge". Prehistoric people used the rocks that were there and carved them to create something that tracked the sun. It looked like a rocky area in the woods but you could see that some of them had been carved. Not as impressive as Stonehenge, but still interesting.
From there we walked on through beautiful woods and meadows. We followed a low wall remaining from an ancient city.
Basilicata "Stonehenge".
Hiking in the park.
We had our sandwiches at the turnaround point - a viewpoint where we could see for miles and miles over the mountains. We could see a few hilltop villages. So, we didn't turn around. I don't know why. Did we think she was lying to us? The trail was well marked and made its way down the hillside. It got more and more steep, to the point where I thought there was no way we could easily go back if the path was blocked. We kept going. The woods were beautiful. We got to a larger trail and turned onto it (as the instructions said to do). And guess what? The trail was blocked.
Sudden end to the trail.
We turned around but there was no way I was doing that climb. I was using the park app on my iPhone and it showed us where we were. I could see that the larger trail we were on went back to the main road to a place where we had stopped earlier thinking it might be our trail start. So we walked back to the main road and then had a very steep one mile walk on the road. I didn't remember it was that steep when we drove it.
The whole walk was 3.58 miles and took us over 3 hours. A personal best for slowness. But we loved the walk. If it had not been blocked off, it would have been an incredible walk (we only did 1/3 of it before the path was blocked). If we were really ambitious we could have done it in the other direction. I am not sure why it was blocked.
We drove through the park, passing through Oliveto Lucano (didn't stop, it was around 3:30 and everything was shut - but I don't think it is a large town). The roads in the park are not good. There are many potholes and areas where the road is sinking. Most are marked by red tape, so you don't drive into them.
We went back to the main highway and drove up to a large hill town that we could see on our walk - Tricarico. We had seen the sign for the town when were driving to Matera the other day and it said Arab and Norman ruins.
Tricarico is much larger than Trivigno, but not that large. There is a modern part and an old part. Wikipedia says it has the best preserved medieval center in Lucania (that's what they call this area). There is a Norman tower, two other historic towers, a Ducal Palace. Looks like we missed some Roman ruins outside the town (Civita). Maybe we will go back. We walked around the town, stopped for coffee and cake, then drove home. Here are some town photos.
No country for old men, but the "no" is crossed out.
Gate. Porta del Monte (medieval). They put black small ones stones in between the larger stones to make a dotted pattern.
Town.
The Norman Castle.
Street.
Door knocker.
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BryanS
100+ Posts
Looks like you guys had a great day. That trail end looks like some we've seen that they cross private land and the owners don't want any body to pass, or for their livestock to get out. Always an adventure!
Tricarico has a great festival before Easter:
Tricarico has a great festival before Easter:
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Pauline
Forums Admin
Another sunny and warm day. In the morning we did our village walk - 3 miles, up to the church that is outside of town and back along the lanes. The fields are coming into bloom.
After lunch we drove north for an hour to Venosa to see the Roman ruins. The Egyptian (?) poet Horace lived in this town. The drive north was pretty and different from the area where we are staying. More open fields, fewer woods. We got to Venosa thinking we would follow signs to the archaeological park but there was not a single sign. I set the GPS to take us and it took us down a road that was almost undriveable. We turned around and eventually got there - they are outside the town. We did not pass a single sign pointing to the area.
The ruins are of a small town, with a bath complex. The Via Appia to Rome passed through the center of town and we could walk on the old stones. (It was rerouted during the Roman Empire causing the collapse of the town.) There was an office for the area, where you paid your entry (€2.50). The woman walked out with you and pointed to where everything was. The printed boards in the park were very faded. Some were so faded they were blank. The grass was long and unkempt. There were only a few other people there.
Beside the ruins are the ruins of an old Benedictine Abbey from 1150. These ruins were beautiful. They were built on top of part of the Roman town.
Outside the paid area is another church which is attached to the Benedictine Abbey. Inside it are exposed areas showing the Roman walls and floors below. It has 14th century frescoes and two Roman columns built into the walls.
In Venosa there is an Aragonese castle (built in 1470) but we only saw it from the outside. We drove on to Melfi arriving around 5pm and thinking the town would be lively, but nearly everything was closed. Turns out today (May 1) is another holiday here. I think there were two last week. We walked all around Melfi and went up to the Norman castle but didn't go in. The town is surrounded by large Norman walls.
Another lovely day. Maratea is crossed off the list for our two remaining days. My Garmin says 2hrs22min to drive there. Too long. Tomorrow we are going back to Castelmezzano and will do the Seven Stones walk to Pietrapertosa (instead of taking the zipwire across). I think it will be less crowded now that the holidays are over.
After lunch we drove north for an hour to Venosa to see the Roman ruins. The Egyptian (?) poet Horace lived in this town. The drive north was pretty and different from the area where we are staying. More open fields, fewer woods. We got to Venosa thinking we would follow signs to the archaeological park but there was not a single sign. I set the GPS to take us and it took us down a road that was almost undriveable. We turned around and eventually got there - they are outside the town. We did not pass a single sign pointing to the area.
The ruins are of a small town, with a bath complex. The Via Appia to Rome passed through the center of town and we could walk on the old stones. (It was rerouted during the Roman Empire causing the collapse of the town.) There was an office for the area, where you paid your entry (€2.50). The woman walked out with you and pointed to where everything was. The printed boards in the park were very faded. Some were so faded they were blank. The grass was long and unkempt. There were only a few other people there.
Beside the ruins are the ruins of an old Benedictine Abbey from 1150. These ruins were beautiful. They were built on top of part of the Roman town.
Outside the paid area is another church which is attached to the Benedictine Abbey. Inside it are exposed areas showing the Roman walls and floors below. It has 14th century frescoes and two Roman columns built into the walls.
In Venosa there is an Aragonese castle (built in 1470) but we only saw it from the outside. We drove on to Melfi arriving around 5pm and thinking the town would be lively, but nearly everything was closed. Turns out today (May 1) is another holiday here. I think there were two last week. We walked all around Melfi and went up to the Norman castle but didn't go in. The town is surrounded by large Norman walls.
Another lovely day. Maratea is crossed off the list for our two remaining days. My Garmin says 2hrs22min to drive there. Too long. Tomorrow we are going back to Castelmezzano and will do the Seven Stones walk to Pietrapertosa (instead of taking the zipwire across). I think it will be less crowded now that the holidays are over.
Roman ruins and Benedictine Abbey ruins in Venosa.
Detail from the Benedictine Abbey.
Street in Melfi with the castle looming above.
BryanS
100+ Posts
Great town...but like the rest of Basilicata the signage is abysmal.
Orazio (Horace) was a Roman poet.
If you went inside the church S.S. Trinita you probably walked past the burial of some of the Guiscard family members - the Normans who ruled southern Italy. I find it difficult to capture in photos what it is like to be in some of those ruins.
For the Seven Stones it is best to park at the cemetery in Castelmezzano. Hopefully they won't have the speakers on, some weird music. When you get to Pietrapertosa there are some bars and restaurants before you walk back.
Have fun!
Orazio (Horace) was a Roman poet.
If you went inside the church S.S. Trinita you probably walked past the burial of some of the Guiscard family members - the Normans who ruled southern Italy. I find it difficult to capture in photos what it is like to be in some of those ruins.
For the Seven Stones it is best to park at the cemetery in Castelmezzano. Hopefully they won't have the speakers on, some weird music. When you get to Pietrapertosa there are some bars and restaurants before you walk back.
Have fun!
Pauline
Forums Admin
Today we drove to Castelmezzano and walked the Sette Pietra walking trail (Seven Stones). It follows an old mule trail from Castelmezzano to Pietrapertosa and back.
The walk took 4 hours, including walking up to a high point in Pietrapertosa to get the view (almost to the castle).
4.5 miles, altitude gain 2150 feet. We walked at half our normal speed (1 mile per hour!) because of all the climbing. We did a good pace, but a few younger people passed us. I am pleased we made it!
The iPhone health app says 15,000 steps, 61 floors.
There are no signs for the walk in Castelmezzano (motto of Basilicata - we don't have to explain anything!) but I read about the walk in one of the brochures Valerie left for us. When I googled it, I came up with the Slow Europe Day Trip she wrote about Castelmezzano, proving that I need to read our own content! Thanks to @BryanS for telling me where it starts. We parked in town and walked down to the Cemetery where the trail starts. It is a short but steep descent to the river. We passed several of the artworks. They each have music or words coming from speakers. Very strange, but I liked it. The artworks were made of stone and fit well with the area. We crossed the river on a Roman bridge (I think), then there was a long, steep climb up to Pietrapertosa. It took about 1 1/2 hours to do that.
Then we walked up higher in Pietrapertosa, out to the rocks where the zipline departs from. There is a castle even higher in the rocks, but it was closed. We had our sandwiches sitting up in the rocks looking at the valley and Castelmezzano beyond. We walked back through the village.
Pietrapertosa and Castelmezzano are both fascinating villages, built right into the rocks. Little alleyways between houses, narrow roads that cars manage to drive on.
We talked briefly with a man up near the zipline. He wanted to know if this was our first time here, because it was his first time and he was from Milan and he had been to Matera and now Pietrapertosa and WOW isn't it all fabulous! (In Italian between him and Steve.)
After more than a week here (and this is our second visit - we spent 4 nights here two years ago), I love Basilicata. It is rough and rugged, not as cultured or populated as Tuscany and Umbria, but there is something special here. The people are very friendly, these hill towns are beautiful and there are many of them. The hiking could be a lot better with just a bit of work (signs), but we did manage to figure out several good walks. The roads could be better too, but you get used to looking out for potholes (it was the same in Sicily).
The woman who runs the cafe in Trivigno was telling us today that houses are cheap and there are several for sale. We won't commit that much, but we will be back. I will look for a vacation rental in this area so we can visit when Valerie and Bryan are here.
After our walk we did a bit of a drive, back into the mountains to see Valerie's ancestral village, Anzi. We did not go up into it, but saw it from the road. Then we did a backroads return to Trivigno.
One day left and we have to get laundry done, get the house back to how it was left for us, drag the suitcases the 1/4 mile to the car. We could drive the car up into the village and be closer to the house (as Valerie did with our luggage when we arrived) but there is no way we are driving that narrow road.
It is a 5 1/2 hour drive to Spoleto. We thought we might go along the east coast, but that takes 2 hours longer, so we will go back the way we came towards Rome. We will make the drive fun by stopping at Autogrills.
The walk took 4 hours, including walking up to a high point in Pietrapertosa to get the view (almost to the castle).
4.5 miles, altitude gain 2150 feet. We walked at half our normal speed (1 mile per hour!) because of all the climbing. We did a good pace, but a few younger people passed us. I am pleased we made it!
The iPhone health app says 15,000 steps, 61 floors.
There are no signs for the walk in Castelmezzano (motto of Basilicata - we don't have to explain anything!) but I read about the walk in one of the brochures Valerie left for us. When I googled it, I came up with the Slow Europe Day Trip she wrote about Castelmezzano, proving that I need to read our own content! Thanks to @BryanS for telling me where it starts. We parked in town and walked down to the Cemetery where the trail starts. It is a short but steep descent to the river. We passed several of the artworks. They each have music or words coming from speakers. Very strange, but I liked it. The artworks were made of stone and fit well with the area. We crossed the river on a Roman bridge (I think), then there was a long, steep climb up to Pietrapertosa. It took about 1 1/2 hours to do that.
Then we walked up higher in Pietrapertosa, out to the rocks where the zipline departs from. There is a castle even higher in the rocks, but it was closed. We had our sandwiches sitting up in the rocks looking at the valley and Castelmezzano beyond. We walked back through the village.
Pietrapertosa and Castelmezzano are both fascinating villages, built right into the rocks. Little alleyways between houses, narrow roads that cars manage to drive on.
We talked briefly with a man up near the zipline. He wanted to know if this was our first time here, because it was his first time and he was from Milan and he had been to Matera and now Pietrapertosa and WOW isn't it all fabulous! (In Italian between him and Steve.)
After more than a week here (and this is our second visit - we spent 4 nights here two years ago), I love Basilicata. It is rough and rugged, not as cultured or populated as Tuscany and Umbria, but there is something special here. The people are very friendly, these hill towns are beautiful and there are many of them. The hiking could be a lot better with just a bit of work (signs), but we did manage to figure out several good walks. The roads could be better too, but you get used to looking out for potholes (it was the same in Sicily).
The woman who runs the cafe in Trivigno was telling us today that houses are cheap and there are several for sale. We won't commit that much, but we will be back. I will look for a vacation rental in this area so we can visit when Valerie and Bryan are here.
After our walk we did a bit of a drive, back into the mountains to see Valerie's ancestral village, Anzi. We did not go up into it, but saw it from the road. Then we did a backroads return to Trivigno.
One day left and we have to get laundry done, get the house back to how it was left for us, drag the suitcases the 1/4 mile to the car. We could drive the car up into the village and be closer to the house (as Valerie did with our luggage when we arrived) but there is no way we are driving that narrow road.
It is a 5 1/2 hour drive to Spoleto. We thought we might go along the east coast, but that takes 2 hours longer, so we will go back the way we came towards Rome. We will make the drive fun by stopping at Autogrills.
Artwork along the walk.
Steep walking path.
Interesting use of an old bed frame (as a fence).
Pietrapertosa built into the top of a mountain.
Looking at Castelmezzano from the rocks above Pietrapertosa.
In Castelmezzano looking back where we walked, to the bottom of that valley and up to the town on those rocks.
Pauline
Forums Admin
We are in Spoleto. It was a long night drive. We left at 9:30 and arrived at 4:30. Traffic was good except at the end where it was at a standstill because of an accident. We could see the cars as they went by on tow trucks and it looked like a head on collision. This road is one lane in each direction and no passing because of all the turns. After they cleared the accident, and traffic was moving, several cars passed the slow moving cars and trucks! In no passing areas!
The apartment is fabulous. Spacious, beautifully furnished, lots of windows and views, and a sunny terrace.
We had a very good dinner with @Jim Zurer and his wife Diana. We've been online friends for 15+ years but this is the first time we've met! We ate at Taverna dello Spagna with several vegetarian options.
I am tired after that long drive.
The apartment is fabulous. Spacious, beautifully furnished, lots of windows and views, and a sunny terrace.
We had a very good dinner with @Jim Zurer and his wife Diana. We've been online friends for 15+ years but this is the first time we've met! We ate at Taverna dello Spagna with several vegetarian options.
I am tired after that long drive.
View from the terrace.
Pauline
Forums Admin
This morning, sitting outside Caffe degli Artisti, I saw Jim and Diana walking by. They were looking for the Friday market and we were in Piazza Mercato, but no market. They joined us for our second coffee and then went on exploring Spoleto.
We bought some groceries, went back to the apartment, made sandwiches (peanut butter and - - - banana!!), and headed out for our walk. First we had to take the moving sidewalk in a tunnel thing down to the bottom of town where our car is parked and get our walking shoes, poles and backpacks from the car. I am leaving all that stuff there so we don't have to lug it to the apartment and because most of our walks will be done from the car.
All ready for our hike we took the moving sidewalk back past our stop, Piazza Mercato, to the top (10 mins). The hike starts at the top of the town, over the Ponte delle Tori, the beautiful medieval bridge that spans the canyon. We get to the bridge and - - closed! It was open 1 1/2 years ago when we did the hikes from there. There was a sign showing you how to get to the point across the bridge another way - a way that was 4km long and included a steep climb.
Ponte delle Torri closed.
We took the escalator (a different one) down almost to the bottom, then walked outside the town walls to a trail where we scrambled back up to the level of the Ponte de Torri. Since we had already done a big climb we decided not to climb more to Monteluco (Cicerone Guide - Walking in Umbria - walk 28, Spoleto and Monteluco, 10.5km), but instead to walk up the valley (walk 29, Giro dei Condotti, 8.2km). We had done part of this walk before and wanted to do the whole walk and since the detour put us on that trail, we decided to do it.
The book says 3 hours, but it was 3 hours just to reach the turnaround point and another 2 hours to get back. This was a long hike. It climbs steadily uphill through woods along the edge of a canyon with a river below. The sun was out and it was hot (70F). It was cooler in the woods and some beautiful flowers were out.
Flowers on the trail.
We got lost at one point. There are not many trail markings and you have to depend on the book's description, which had a slight error. We took a left when we should have gone right, walked for 15 minutes and came to a big water trough, then turned back and took the other trail. This was the right one. We walked and walked and then we heard a noise. Cingalle!! We could hear them grunting and walking in the river below. At one point I thought they were coming up the hill to us, but we saw them leave on the other side - a big mother and a small one. Very exciting.
We reached the turnaround point at 4pm and had plans to meet Jim and Diana at 5pm, so I texted them to set our time later. The turnaround point was at the end of the valley, high up and we could see down to the flat open area below Spoleto. Beautiful!
The end of the valley.
On our walk back we passed the water trough, so we had found a shortcut across the canyon on our wrong turn.
The trail took us back down the valley on the other side of the canyon. Closer to town we walked through olive groves with views of the city below. Stunning.
Olive groves.
Looking to Spoleto.
We reached Jim and Diana's hotel well after 6pm (one last bit of being lost trying to get back to the parking lot to change out of our walking shoes). We sat in the hotel bar and talked, then they headed out for dinner and we headed home thinking we would make dinner, but we ended up getting take out pizza.
We are both exhausted. My health app says 12 miles. I got too much sun, my feet hurt and I am woozy tired, but what a great day!
We bought some groceries, went back to the apartment, made sandwiches (peanut butter and - - - banana!!), and headed out for our walk. First we had to take the moving sidewalk in a tunnel thing down to the bottom of town where our car is parked and get our walking shoes, poles and backpacks from the car. I am leaving all that stuff there so we don't have to lug it to the apartment and because most of our walks will be done from the car.
All ready for our hike we took the moving sidewalk back past our stop, Piazza Mercato, to the top (10 mins). The hike starts at the top of the town, over the Ponte delle Tori, the beautiful medieval bridge that spans the canyon. We get to the bridge and - - closed! It was open 1 1/2 years ago when we did the hikes from there. There was a sign showing you how to get to the point across the bridge another way - a way that was 4km long and included a steep climb.
Ponte delle Torri closed.
We took the escalator (a different one) down almost to the bottom, then walked outside the town walls to a trail where we scrambled back up to the level of the Ponte de Torri. Since we had already done a big climb we decided not to climb more to Monteluco (Cicerone Guide - Walking in Umbria - walk 28, Spoleto and Monteluco, 10.5km), but instead to walk up the valley (walk 29, Giro dei Condotti, 8.2km). We had done part of this walk before and wanted to do the whole walk and since the detour put us on that trail, we decided to do it.
The book says 3 hours, but it was 3 hours just to reach the turnaround point and another 2 hours to get back. This was a long hike. It climbs steadily uphill through woods along the edge of a canyon with a river below. The sun was out and it was hot (70F). It was cooler in the woods and some beautiful flowers were out.
Flowers on the trail.
We got lost at one point. There are not many trail markings and you have to depend on the book's description, which had a slight error. We took a left when we should have gone right, walked for 15 minutes and came to a big water trough, then turned back and took the other trail. This was the right one. We walked and walked and then we heard a noise. Cingalle!! We could hear them grunting and walking in the river below. At one point I thought they were coming up the hill to us, but we saw them leave on the other side - a big mother and a small one. Very exciting.
We reached the turnaround point at 4pm and had plans to meet Jim and Diana at 5pm, so I texted them to set our time later. The turnaround point was at the end of the valley, high up and we could see down to the flat open area below Spoleto. Beautiful!
The end of the valley.
On our walk back we passed the water trough, so we had found a shortcut across the canyon on our wrong turn.
The trail took us back down the valley on the other side of the canyon. Closer to town we walked through olive groves with views of the city below. Stunning.
Olive groves.
Looking to Spoleto.
We reached Jim and Diana's hotel well after 6pm (one last bit of being lost trying to get back to the parking lot to change out of our walking shoes). We sat in the hotel bar and talked, then they headed out for dinner and we headed home thinking we would make dinner, but we ended up getting take out pizza.
We are both exhausted. My health app says 12 miles. I got too much sun, my feet hurt and I am woozy tired, but what a great day!